Now the basic body is assembled it is time to add the detail. Actually, it depends on the prototype whether I add the strapping etc before assembly or after. Sometimes it is easier to work with the parts flat on the bench and then assemble the body. It can be difficult holding things square to solder when they have different width bits sticking out all over. So for the steel open I decided to assemble the body and then add the strapping. Sometimes I cut a wooden block to fill the inside so you don't need to be as careful handling the somewhat flimsy body.
This is one I made earlier, with the verticals soldered to the body panels before assembling the body. There are quite a few more rivets and bits in this 1850s iron van than in the open wagon.
Back to the mineral wagon, find the previously prepared riveted strip for one side of the doors. Cut it so it is overlong and hold in place with a clothes peg or similar. Note that the lower part of the strip is not siting flat on the body side, this will not be a problem because the first spot of solder will be next to the peg and that will hold the strip in place while holding the strip down with one of the coffee stirrers to solder the bottom end. I realise I haven't taken enough action shots but it is difficult with only two hands. Let me know if more illustration is needed. Flux is applied, so it wicks under the strip before soldering.
First strip in place, don't worry too much about keeping the solder perfectly tidy as it can be cleaned up later. But don't use too much solder as it will take longer to clean up afterwards. If you do have a bit much solder it is best to apply some more flux to the flat brass alongside the strip and apply the soldering iron and drag the solder away from the joint so it flashes over the flat brass in a very thin layer. It is then very easy to remove using the fibreglass pencil. Second strip laid in place before positioning the peg to hold it for the first spot of solder. Note the scribed lines on the body to identify where the strips go.
Next, solder plain strips on to form the protruding leg of the angle irons. I hold them vertical against the previously soldered riveted strip with one of the wooden sticks and a finger (away from the end being soldered). If the verticals have a shaped profile such as the splay at the top it is easier to cut this before soldering onto the body using the tinsnips. This wagon had smaller 45 degree chamfers at the bottom end but I decided to leave the bottom end long and file these chamfers later, so the length is not critical. Note the solder looks a bit messy in this photo, I like to run solder into the joint between the two pieces forming the angle to represent the curve present in hot rolled steel sections. It is a balance of using enough solder but not too much. If you do end up with excess add flux and spread the solder out onto the flat panels again. There shouldn't be a problem with the first piece unsoldering while the second in being soldered on alongside. If you do have a problem with this it means too much heat is being applied, either the iron is too hot, or not high enough wattage so too long is needed to heat the joint which heats a wider area as well, or you are dwelling too long. It is a case of getting the feel for the soldering iron and watching how the solder behaves.
The end stanchions are similar but because they are T sections instead of angles three parts are needed. The same method is used, one of the riveted strips is soldered in place first, then the protruding plain strip (with chamfered top to match the prototype) and followed by the second riveted strip. The alternate rivet pattern is characteristic so make sure you have the two pairs of riveted strips in the right places.
The end door angles, hinge straps and corners follow along using the same methods.
Another method of holding the hinge strap in place -
You might be able to see in the above photo that I have filed off the tops of the rivets on the body side to better represent the flat topped rivets often used in this situation. The bits of strapping sticking out the top should be cut off and carefully filed down to match the body using a jewellers file.
Then the angle needs to be added along the top, although if you are building a Butterley Patent wagon in original condition you would only need a plain strip along the outside of the top edge. I held the strip along the inside of the side with pegs, as in the photo, moving them as needed to keep the strip flat on the side.
The plain strips for the top of the angles were then soldered on. Holding them in position can be awkward, I used the modified stirring stick which appears in the photo of the tools in post 35 to hold the strip in place while tack soldering in place then turned the body over and finished the seam from the outside with the strip flat on the bench.
And that is where we get to after about 10 hours total working time. Looking at the photo and seeing the water droplets, I realise I haven't said much about washing the model as you go. A quick rinse under the cold tap and a rub with an old tooth brush keeps things clean, you should rinse at the end of each session at least and I usually rinse before using files and other tools on the model so they don't get flux directly on them.
If anything is unclear I can probably explain things better, or take some more photos. Hopefully it will all become clear when you have a go. I would like to see someone commence at least one other wagon before I finish this one.
Still the solebars, door catches, hinges and other bits and pieces to do.