Jerry's random 2mm stuff

Simon

Flying Squad
They look really good Jerry, have a good trip to the NEC and I look forward to a bit of spotting on Sunday:)

Simon
 

Simon Glidewell

Western Thunderer
All lovely work Jerry; I especially like the green 0-4-0 steam loco. Can I ask you where you got the replacement coupling rods for your Farish class 14? Did you make them yourself or can you buy an etch from somewhere?

All the best
Simon
 

queensquare

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon , many thanks for your kind comments. The little green 0-4-0T is now an 0-6-0t following a rebuild.

The class 14 detailing etch is by Another Association member, Steve 'pixie' Nichols. There are none available at the moment but he is happy to tack a few on the corner of another etch when he does one. I'm doing one for a customer at the moment and fancy doing another for myself as I've just picked up another 14 in the attractive NCB blue.

Jerry
 

Simon Glidewell

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the info Jerry. The class 14 is a nice little model but the way it is put together is rather odd, especially the footplate. The bonnets on mine (BR green) were glued too far into the cab (at the factory) and caused the footplate to bend upwards. Pulling the chassis apart and then putting it back together is a good test of "staying calm"! I've upgraded mine, correcting the bad assembly; re-profiling the wheel faces (much thinner); filling in the axle holes in the centre of the wheels so they are flush with no sign of the axle; refining the coupling rods by carefully filing the over heavy joints and thinning down the rods themselves (I repainted them from red to yellow); and finally re weathering and improving the awful factory weathering! Now it looks much nicer and finer in appearance. The NCB blue livery is indeed very attractive and really suits these locos.

All the best
Simon
 
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Simon Glidewell

Western Thunderer
Hello again Jerry,

Would Steve consider adding a pair of coupling rods for this loco for me the next time he's etching some? Obviously I'd pay whatever he charges and postage. What about crank pins? Do you refine the Farish ones or use replacements? Does Steve do a set for the Farish 08 by any chance? I hope you don't mind me asking.

All the best
Simon
 
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queensquare

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon, the 14 etch includes replacement coupling rods, a door which allows you to model it open and buffer beams that don't have the huge cutout for the rapido coupling. Your best bet is to drop Steve a pm. He's not on here but is on RMWeb as 'pixie'. I'm sure he'd help, he's a very afable chap.
Regarding crank pins. I put a sleeve in the hole to reduce the size then fit Association crank pins. Are you sticking with N gauge or are you thinking of converting to 2FS?

Jerry
 

Simon Glidewell

Western Thunderer
Many thanks Jerry. Unfortunately I'm not a member of RMweb anymore so I wouldn't be able to send pixie a message. Much as I'd like to have a go at 2mm fine scale, I want to devote my main energies to P4, so it would just be N gauge but using the relatively new bullhead track system from C and L, with upgraded locos, etc.

Cheers
Simon
 

adrian

Flying Squad
chap needs a PMU!
Hang on a minute "a PMU" - the photo clearly shows one set of etchings and a semi-built up unit. So this is either a little bit of clever photoshop trickery or there is more than one in the pipeline. That said I would be interested in knowing what the power train arrangement will be.
 

queensquare

Western Thunderer
Morning Adrian, yes it's a PMU, a Petrol Multiple Unit - one of the Colonel Stephens Ford rail buses which ran as a pair, back to back, sometimes with a wagon in between. The whitemetal casting in the picture is from a Langley model T which I'm considering using instead of the etched one supplied.
I do have a design sketched out using a 6mm Nigel Lawton motor and pulley drive but these railcars really are tiny and I'm worried it will take up too much space. One of the main characteristics is their light, open look so I am looking to go with a powered wagon between the two units. This will either be an exSDJR low roofed road van or, if the mechanism is low enough, an open wagon with a tarpaulin.

Jerry
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Thanks for the explanation - I hadn't realised it was a two car unit as I guessed PMU as Personal Motor Unit. I've just been trying to put together a motor unit for a rail motor and I used the 6mm motor from Nigel Lawton. Unfortunately the motor hasn't got enough umph to get the wheels turning. So I'm going to have to go through checking everything is free as possible, plus try a slightly larger motor to get the mechanism run in. If it loosens up then I may try putting the 6mm motor back in. Hence my interest is seeing what solution you come up with.
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the explanation - I hadn't realised it was a two car unit as I guessed PMU as Personal Motor Unit. I've just been trying to put together a motor unit for a rail motor and I used the 6mm motor from Nigel Lawton. Unfortunately the motor hasn't got enough umph to get the wheels turning. So I'm going to have to go through checking everything is free as possible, plus try a slightly larger motor to get the mechanism run in. If it loosens up then I may try putting the 6mm motor back in. Hence my interest is seeing what solution you come up with.
Adrian, could you show us what you have put together? The 6mm motor should work but you do need to have as little friction as possible in the drive train. If you look at any of the commercial N mechanisms they are all loose and sloppy. Quite different to a 7mm scale mechanism.
 

queensquare

Western Thunderer
Adrian, could you show us what you have put together? The 6mm motor should work but you do need to have as little friction as possible in the drive train. If you look at any of the commercial N mechanisms they are all loose and sloppy. Quite different to a 7mm scale mechanism.

Whilst I would agree that you want as little friction in the drive train as possible "all loose and sloppy" is likely to cause more problems than it solves. In N this is generally to allow locos to go round silly tight curves and has very little to do with good running.

Jerry
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Adrian, could you show us what you have put together? The 6mm motor should work but you do need to have as little friction as possible in the drive train. If you look at any of the commercial N mechanisms they are all loose and sloppy.
Hi, thanks for the interest. I will post where I have got to but rather than clutter up Jerry's thread I will start my own 2mm workbench thread for it. I've tried to make the mechanism free running rather than sloppy - there's very little spare room to have it loose and sloppy!
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Whilst I would agree that you want as little friction in the drive train as possible "all loose and sloppy" is likely to cause more problems than it solves. In N this is generally to allow locos to go round silly tight curves and has very little to do with good running.

Jerry
Yes, I didn't express that too well. The N gauge comment was to illustrate how the mass producers make things work while dealing with their manufacturing tolerances. Trying to replicate this with proper gears and bearings from the 2mmSA would lead to tears and rapid wear. The aim should be to have nearly no perceptible resistance when revolving the gear chain as the small motors have very little torque at low revs but are ok once running.
 

queensquare

Western Thunderer
I've had a bit of a splurge Doing things for my Bath Queensquare project of late and one of the things I started several years ago and have now got round to building a chassis for is this little MR 1F. Here she is covered in flux, filings and excess solder and in need of a good scrub. Few more details to go but nearly thre.
She has a Lawton 8mm motor glued in, 60:1 double reduction gearing and runs very nicely. I'll take a picture of her with the lid off when I clean her up.
image.jpg image.jpg

Jerry
 

queensquare

Western Thunderer
Just realised when looking at John's progress on his Lzzize and Jub that Id not posted anything for a while so thought Id put up a quick montage of what Ive been building over the Christmas break. Its an SDJR small 4-4-0, the 2P is there purely to demonstrate why they are refered to as 'small'!
For those interested there are more details in my Bath Queensquare thread over on RMWeb. Bath Queen Square - Page 16 - 2mm Finescale
IMG_2020.JPG IMG_2022.JPG IMG_2023.JPG IMG_2024.JPG IMG_2027.JPG IMG_2028.JPG IMG_2032.JPG IMG_2050.JPG IMG_2051.JPG IMG_2055.JPG

Happy New Year all, Jerry
 
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