Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
...I see Antics are showing a delivery expected 19th December, but looking elsewhere that may be a little tight.
Last edited:
Dapol 08
- Thread starter Ressaldar
- Start date
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Jordan, I wouldn't have a clue, what's a diesel? 
I think what's more important is that the green is similar to the greens from other manufacturers rather than the green on one particular model as they'll very rarely be seen in daylight. Also, I'm more than certain that different sheds and different paint batches would never match up.
When Stratford painted their kettles black, and new transfers stuck on, the paint was so thin that the old numbers underneath the new paint could clearly be seen.. But then, that was Stratford..
JB.
I think what's more important is that the green is similar to the greens from other manufacturers rather than the green on one particular model as they'll very rarely be seen in daylight. Also, I'm more than certain that different sheds and different paint batches would never match up.
When Stratford painted their kettles black, and new transfers stuck on, the paint was so thin that the old numbers underneath the new paint could clearly be seen.. But then, that was Stratford..
JB.
SoundsLoco
Member
Hello
In response to requests I've created another version of the Dapol Class 08 ProtoDrive sound project so that those of you with more than one model can have a bit of variety. The engine and traction motors sound were recorded from a different loco, so it sounds different but operationally it as the original so running more than one will be pretty straightforward.
It also has the benefit of operating the lights as Dapol intended without the need to undetake any rewiring.
Kind regards,
Paul
In response to requests I've created another version of the Dapol Class 08 ProtoDrive sound project so that those of you with more than one model can have a bit of variety. The engine and traction motors sound were recorded from a different loco, so it sounds different but operationally it as the original so running more than one will be pretty straightforward.
It also has the benefit of operating the lights as Dapol intended without the need to undetake any rewiring.
Kind regards,
Paul
SoundsLoco
Member
SoundsLoco
Member
Thank you again.
Well, that depends on what you mean by 'ever'. I did wonder if I should add caveats to the clip, but decided just to show that all can be independently controlled. (That also means that they can be left 'off', so it is up to the user to decide which to illuminate).
The glib answer would be 'Yes if it's a Dapol model' because that's how they have set up the 'rear' shunting lights to operate.
A more considered answer would still be, yes.
The pertinent BR Rule on lights for shunters and station pilots was that there should be one red and one white lamp at each end concurrently when visibility demands (I've paraphrased heavily).
The rule did not specify (in any copy I've seen) which colour should be over which buffer. (The Dapol arrangement has the reds and whites at opposing diagonal corners).
It was common practice, if not a rule, that the side closer to the main running lines should display a white lamp, the other side being red. Given that although the relationshp between the 'yard' and running lines may differ between locations, at each location they will remain the same. If the shunter/pilot is turned, the new orientation will mean that red lamps are now closer to the runnng lines so the lamp colours would have been swapped to compensate for this.
Therefore, it is likely that a red aspect could be either on the left or right of a loco during shunting depending upon the orientation and proximity of running lines.
For normal line running, it would normally only be red aspect to the left at the rear when light engine, but since the primary duty was shunting, red lamps were required on both sides so the correct selection could be made.
The purpose of the YT clip was to illustrate what would be physically possible, not what was statutory, customary or likely. An 08 pulling the Royal Train on the main line is very unlikely, but (at least until many 08s 'lost' some of their lamps in later life) it would have been possible to display 4 white lamps.
Kind regards,
Paul
Well, that depends on what you mean by 'ever'. I did wonder if I should add caveats to the clip, but decided just to show that all can be independently controlled. (That also means that they can be left 'off', so it is up to the user to decide which to illuminate).
The glib answer would be 'Yes if it's a Dapol model' because that's how they have set up the 'rear' shunting lights to operate.
A more considered answer would still be, yes.
The pertinent BR Rule on lights for shunters and station pilots was that there should be one red and one white lamp at each end concurrently when visibility demands (I've paraphrased heavily).
The rule did not specify (in any copy I've seen) which colour should be over which buffer. (The Dapol arrangement has the reds and whites at opposing diagonal corners).
It was common practice, if not a rule, that the side closer to the main running lines should display a white lamp, the other side being red. Given that although the relationshp between the 'yard' and running lines may differ between locations, at each location they will remain the same. If the shunter/pilot is turned, the new orientation will mean that red lamps are now closer to the runnng lines so the lamp colours would have been swapped to compensate for this.
Therefore, it is likely that a red aspect could be either on the left or right of a loco during shunting depending upon the orientation and proximity of running lines.
For normal line running, it would normally only be red aspect to the left at the rear when light engine, but since the primary duty was shunting, red lamps were required on both sides so the correct selection could be made.
The purpose of the YT clip was to illustrate what would be physically possible, not what was statutory, customary or likely. An 08 pulling the Royal Train on the main line is very unlikely, but (at least until many 08s 'lost' some of their lamps in later life) it would have been possible to display 4 white lamps.
Kind regards,
Paul
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Along with many others I have succumbed to the Dapol 08. In black with the "133XX" numbering, of course.
Now that the dust has settled what is the consensus about the best DCC sound decoder to fit to the loco as (as near as possible) a straight drop in. As mentioned elsewhere I have experience of fitting DCC decoders but I don't have any particular interest in too much faffing, rewiring or reconfiguring for lights etc.
Assuming that the weather doesn't get too inclement I'll be at Bristol and will hopefully make my purchase there.
Answers on a postcard, please.
Or better still on the forum.
B
Now that the dust has settled what is the consensus about the best DCC sound decoder to fit to the loco as (as near as possible) a straight drop in. As mentioned elsewhere I have experience of fitting DCC decoders but I don't have any particular interest in too much faffing, rewiring or reconfiguring for lights etc.
Assuming that the weather doesn't get too inclement I'll be at Bristol and will hopefully make my purchase there.
Answers on a postcard, please.
Or better still on the forum.B
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Brian,
once you have removed the 'lid', (be careful of the hand rails, they are very fragile) all that is required is for you to remove the 'blanking plate' drop in a Zimo MX644D sound chip (I got mine from Digitrains) solder two wires to the PCB from the speaker of your choice, fix the speaker to the front end of the PCB - facing the grill, replace the lid and away you go.
My MX644D from Digitrains has Paul Chetter's earlier drive system and for my money, gives a more realistic top speed 'crawl' than the factory fitted version that I have seen, which seems to fly along by comparison - neither loco has had any further adjustments other than increasing the volume, slightly!
cheers
Mike
once you have removed the 'lid', (be careful of the hand rails, they are very fragile) all that is required is for you to remove the 'blanking plate' drop in a Zimo MX644D sound chip (I got mine from Digitrains) solder two wires to the PCB from the speaker of your choice, fix the speaker to the front end of the PCB - facing the grill, replace the lid and away you go.
My MX644D from Digitrains has Paul Chetter's earlier drive system and for my money, gives a more realistic top speed 'crawl' than the factory fitted version that I have seen, which seems to fly along by comparison - neither loco has had any further adjustments other than increasing the volume, slightly!
cheers
Mike
TheSnapper
Western Thunderer
Hi Brian
'Tis simple, as Mike explains above - see my post #86 on this thread for a photo.
I have now fitted a larger Zimo Dumbo speaker on the floor, behind the grill, as well as a stay-alive module.
I purchased mine directly from Paul Chetter ( soundsloco@btinternet.com )
Regards
Tim
'Tis simple, as Mike explains above - see my post #86 on this thread for a photo.
I have now fitted a larger Zimo Dumbo speaker on the floor, behind the grill, as well as a stay-alive module.
I purchased mine directly from Paul Chetter ( soundsloco@btinternet.com )
Regards
Tim
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Very helpful info, chaps. Thank you.
B
B
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I got mine from Paul Chetter too.
You do though need one of the proper stay alive capacitors to get truly smoothe slow running.
I increased the top speed of mine as I found it required too much button pressing to get to a reasonable speed.
Richard
You do though need one of the proper stay alive capacitors to get truly smoothe slow running.
I increased the top speed of mine as I found it required too much button pressing to get to a reasonable speed.
Richard
TheSnapper
Western Thunderer
As a matter of interest Richard, what did you increase it to (assuming CV#5)?
Tim
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Again, many thanks all.
B
B
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Tim
I used decoder pro to change the V High to 160 and set the mid point to about half that for a linear speed curve, it's still quite slow, as it should be, but faster than before. It works better in 28 speed step mode with a bit of momentum.
Before it needed about 8 button pushes to increase speed to get going anywhere.
CV#5 is V High CV#6 is the mid point.
Richard