Building an Ace Kits "K"

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick.

Just gone on line and this pack seems to be the best bet in terms of providing a full set of options. Lions Tongue - SGI Industries Ltd

However, I can't see how to purchase. It may be that SGI are trade only suppliers, but I'm having difficulty in locating any company that will supply. Would you let me know the name of your supplier and I'll place an order.

Ta!

B
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick.

Just gone on line and this pack seems to be the best bet in terms of providing a full set of options. Lions Tongue - SGI Industries Ltd

However, I can't see how to purchase. It may be that SGI are trade only suppliers, but I'm having difficulty in locating any company that will supply. Would you let me know the name of your supplier and I'll place an order.

Ta!

B
As far as I know it is generally trade only, I'll try and find out our suppliers.

MD
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Brian,
as an alternative, try Abranet from Axminster Power Tools. Very useful stuffamd from Mick's description it is very similar to Lion's Head.
Simon
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Thank you Adrian. I've suffered "removed fingerprints" even with regular aluminium oxide paper (did I mention the decorating?):D so that's a good hint. Of course, not anticipating losing my means of forensic identification I'd not planned on doing a burgling spree. In fact, by the time I'd realised that the Al2O3 had removed my fingertips it was a bit late, but it certainly smarted.

Thanks, too, Simon. That's helpful and I'll follow it up. That kind Mr Mickoo will help me out in the short term but I'll "get some stocks in".

B
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Cab roof and cutout beading completed. No problems here, apart from the marking out on the kit roof being incorrect. The half etch marking out was filled after making and fitting the rainstrips.

IMG_20180205_140747598.jpg

The boiler has been tack soldered to the firebox ready to make the final join and starting the filling around the front of the firebox. A wonderful opportunity to dry fit the chimney and dome - both will need modification before they are finally fitted.

IMG_20180205_140305711_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg
The dents in the firebox top have now been filled with 179 degree solder prior to rubbing down. A double thickness strengthening plate has been fitted under the boiler, drilled and threaded 8BA. The boiler/smokebox is now screwed in to the back of the cab and the smokebox saddle mounting. The saddle itself has been fixed to the boiler and effectively shrouds the top of the saddle mounting. These will appear in the next post.

Brian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
So........

Everything was going so well, as you'll have noticed from my last post. I actually knew, having checked the height of the boiler using my surface plate (well, a sheet of glass, but you know what I mean) that the smokebox end was a smidgen, or two and a half standard gnats crotchets higher than the firebox, but I'd ground away so much of the smokebox saddle that I was concerned about removing any more metal.

IMG_20180207_104334651.jpg

Here is the body in profile and, even though I know it's there, I find it difficult to see the slight height difference. In real money it's about 0.75mm. However, having slept on it I decided that I simply could not live with knowing about this fundamental bodge, so out came the blowtorch and boiler is again separated from the firebox. The saddle has been reduced in height yet again, but only by the aforesaid smidgen, and I can now have a properly parallel boiler when I come to join the components together again. The slightly lower saddle does not compromise the appearance and having seen another K built from this kit seems to be a necessary fettle.

There will now be a short interruption as the builders left us on Wednesday and there is decorating to do - oh, so much decorating. 'Er indoors will not be delighted if I now spend days in the workshop but there may be brownie points in the offing if I play these cards right.:)

Brian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Oh ye of little faith.

Interim decorating completed so I grabbed an afternoon in the workshop. Boiler and firebox now rejoined. Blobs of solder applied around the complex shapes at the front of firebox/rear of boiler and filed back to give some proper curves.

IMG_20180301_164011015 - Copy.jpg IMG_20180301_164035859 - Copy.jpg IMG_20180301_164115607_HDR - Copy.jpg

I also had time to fit the between frame motion bracket and footplate support bracket.

We're pretty well up to the "Now fit all the bits you've not fitted so far" part of the instructions. (I jest, but only a bit).

Brian
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Ruddy hell!

Rabbit. Hat. Pulled. :thumbs:

I'm either impressed or amazed. Maybe both. :confused: :)

Definitely very pleased through and remember I actually saw this in the flesh a month or three ago...

Steph
 

Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
Brian
If you can impress your son your doing spectacularly well, I'm impressed, not least by your perseverance. Decorating under way at chez Shaw, hall and landing which is a challenge, hope to gain some of the aforementioned brownie points, some were lost at the SECC last weekend.
Regards
Martin
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
I'm deeply touched by your comments, Steph and Martin.

Somewhere in there is a model locomotive trying to get out.:) I'm starting to think that I might be able to release it.:D

I have to thank Simon for his suggestion to use a high temp solder for the filler. I had to build up the metal in three applications but it's nearly there.

Brian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Respected Sirs.

I hereby respectfully make application for full membership of the Surprisingly Ancient Order of Bodgers (Model Railway Branch).

Would members of Finney7, Nick Dunhill and PAD please look away now.

Today oi mostly been working on the bogie. First problem is that there is no provision made in the instructions for fitting this. As a result I had to bodge design it as I went along.

IMG_20180312_141511863 - Copy.jpg
I used one of the unsatisfactory (too narrow) spacers on which to mount the bogie. Using the tabs filed back a bit this fits between the frames. The pivot comprises the short piece of tube to fit over the 10BA screw, a few washers to provide spacers and to prevent the screw from escaping through the hole in the spacer and a nut to hold it all together.

A question, though, to those what may know. Are those rather lovely spring/bearing castings for the bogie? It seems a surprising refinement on this kit. They are very good castings, and there are only two of them, so it seems to me that the bogie is the only possible location. It'll be the devils own job to see them in there when fully assembled and I'm not convinced they'll fit without further modification, but I'll give it a go. Advice definitely needed here, though.

IMG_20180312_151651115 - Copy.jpg IMG_20180312_151707926 - Copy.jpg
This is the bogie with the spacer as it will fit between the frames. Soldering was using safety flux applied with a hypodeemic nurdle and 179 degree solder.

IMG_20180312_153232149 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20180312_153250206 - Copy.jpg
....... and with the spacer bodged carefully located in position viewed from top and bottom.

IMG_20180312_153311490_HDR - Copy.jpg

..... and this suggests that the bogie wheels may actually be in approximately the correct place.

IMG_20180312_165213705 - Copy.jpg IMG_20180312_165230633 - Copy.jpg

Clearly some vertical and side control is needed on that bogie, so I soldered a hand rail knob to the bogie spacer and another to the frame spacer with a piece of nickel silver wire between the two. This was based on bodging - sorry, I mean a calculation of the vertical and horizontal forces involved and the result that a piece of 0.7mm nickel silver wire would provide the required resistance. (What a load of cobblers!) However, when checked on my test plank the bogie ran perfectly, so all those calculations :)) were worthwhile.

And just for a trailer of the upcoming excitement:

IMG_20180308_170634976.jpg

This is the back head. I SAID THIS IS THE BACK HEAD. Seems a bit flat to me. I wonder what I'll do with that?

I have no doubt that there will be suggestions about how to make my bodging even more remarkable. Any comments (apart from the obvious ones which I've not thought of yet) will be gratefully received and duly ignored, except for the one about what to do with the potential bogie castings.

Dear sirs, I am hopeful that, on completion of this project you may be generous enough to send a Fellowship of your steamed society in my direction.

Would you all please hang on a minute while I answer the door to the men in white coats.

I remain, sirs, still here.

Brian
 
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simond

Western Thunderer
Now, you take a bit of 1/4” steel, and you carefully cut it out to the profile shape of the firebox, less the thickness of the backhead blank in height, and twice the said thickness in width. Radius all corners generously.

You then heat your backhead blank to a dull red and dump it in a pot of water

Take your now wibbly backhead blank and holding it firmly in place on your piece of steel, proceed to beat it mercilessly with the smallest toffee hammer you possess until it starts to take on the form of your steel blank. You’ll find that it also takes on the appearance of a pleated skirt. Cut shallow notches as required (that’s what those helpful half etches are for, I guess...) to allow the material form happily, and repeat the heat and beat routine until your blank sits perfectly on the former with no hesitation, duplication, etc.

Or call one of our esteemed traders and buy something suitable.

Or indeed, cut your bit of steel without the allowances for thickness, and simply use that.

Best
Simon
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Or send a drawing to one of a couple of blokes who could wiz one up in 10 minutes and then get it printed. Otherwise you'll only smack a finger with the toffee hammer:p
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Hoorah! I'm officially a bodger!

Thank you Dave.

Actually, Simon, I've been researching a suitable white metal backhead blank since I started on the kit, but no-one does one. I could modify one intended for another loco, but in that case I might as well build one up myself (although possibly not in steel!) Your suggested process does, however, follow the sort of techniques I'd normally use.......:)

I don't have a toffee hammer, though, since eating the aforementioned confection pulled all my fillings out.

B
 
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