7mm Millicent Street

AJC

Western Thunderer
I think this is where the village scene at Pendon suffers. They have enough buildings to make at least two Pendon villages. In model railways, as with other aspects of life, less is often more.

Tim

Well yes and no, I guess it depends what you're looking for, but I must admit, I've always wondered - given that it's an interwar scene - where the council houses are...

Adam
 

Suddaby

Western Thunderer
An independent Hull chemist - Vinegrads, on Holderness Road, just near Southcoates Lane traffic lights.I worked there in the early 70's to help pay my way through college!
I like the level crossing by the way!

Kevin
 

Rippers

Western Thunderer
Away from the workbench where the buildings are progressing we have also being busy with creating some much needed 2 wheel motorised transport of the period for the layout.
B1.jpg
B2.jpg
Research and period photo of the area of the city which the layout is set showed that car ownership was minimal at the time with two wheel vehicles visible in far greater numbers.

B3.jpg

Hence the colourful Vespas an Lambretta with a couple more motorcycles still in the works.
B4.jpg
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
At least one motorcycle should have a family sized, Watsonian sidecar. Standard family transport for working people before car ownership took off in the mid to late sixties?
Dave.
 

Rippers

Western Thunderer
A combination with a double adult sidecar (such as that in your link) is planned.

However research on it is still ongoing as the chair will be a scratch build job.
 

steve50

Western Thunderer
Hi Neil, love seeing the updates and photo's on here. Your weathering and brickwork is amongst the best I've seen. I'm after a bit of advice about painting bricks. I've done a base coat then mortar then picked out individual bricks. I'm now having trouble getting it to look right and wondered where to go next. I've posted this pic as to where I'm at.
84306558_521980802055522_8143842722948579328_n.jpg

I did try some powders on the other side and it looked a bit better but not quite right somehow. I wondered how you got your effects and if the mortar colour could be a bit too light.
Apologies if this has been asked before and I've missed it.

Regards.
Steve.
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Don't forget that a lot of scooters from the early/mid 60's had multiple mirrors, a tall aerial with a tiger tail tied to the top.
 

Rippers

Western Thunderer
Hi Neil, love seeing the updates and photo's on here. Your weathering and brickwork is amongst the best I've seen. I'm after a bit of advice about painting bricks. I've done a base coat then mortar then picked out individual bricks. I'm now having trouble getting it to look right and wondered where to go next. I've posted this pic as to where I'm at.

I did try some powders on the other side and it looked a bit better but not quite right somehow. I wondered how you got your effects and if the mortar colour could be a bit too light.
Apologies if this has been asked before and I've missed it.

Regards.
Steve.

Looks to me you are on the right lines I also tend to add shades of the same colour - adding touches of light and dark grey to my base brick colours or by lightly over shading with a pencil crayon).

Mortar colouring depends on how new the building is. My go to is a beige/biscuit shade of emulsion (a quid's worth of tester pot can last ages). But on the older buildings on the layout I have also added thin washes of acrylic to darken the colour (the mortar lines can look almost black on some aged and weather stained buildings).

I stated by photographing section of brick walls of buidings of the age and types we are modelling and try to recreate the look of those sections in miniature by trial and error on areas of a sheet of brick plasticard glued to a sheet of ply. Once I was confident that I could recreate the effects over and over again I then stated applying the paint and weathering to the actual model.
Yes it still goes wrong occasionally ...though in one case I tried cutting the paint back with light rubbing with a fibre glass pencil and it actually created an effect so pleasing I left it as is and stopped there.

D1.JPG
It a matter of recreating what you see though observation. There are 4 buidings here dating for different decades, all brick and all different. Those to the rear would be mid to late 1800's (one is well weathered brick the other overpainted). the foreground buidings is less weathered and this lighter finish but has a faded painted advert on the end wall. Whereas the office in the middle dating from just pro or post WW2 is more moden red brick and much newer.
 

Al Tait

Western Thunderer
Some lovely details there, not sure my efforts will look as good but its certainly inspiring! I'm guessing the cobbles and pavements are DAS?
 

steve50

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the reply Neil, the bit I find difficult is seeing what I want to replicate then selecting the colours to get what I want then having to resort to colours that tell me what they are ie, brick red or slate grey.
 

Rippers

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the reply Neil, the bit I find difficult is seeing what I want to replicate then selecting the colours to get what I want then having to resort to colours that tell me what they are ie, brick red or slate grey.

No problem. Its more about tones and shades though than precise colours.

Early bricks were hand made and hand fired so tend to be far more random in shades, colour and finishes than more controlled modern manufacture.

My start on all of the buildings is generally a red car primer (although on the older stuff I tend to add a rough and patchy mist coating of matt black to vary the shade of red when over sprayed).
 

Rippers

Western Thunderer
I'm guessing the cobbles and pavements are DAS?

The cobbles are (or at least that is part of the process) whereas the pavements are coast in grey time adhesive mixed with pva glue and poster paint.

The cobbles are created with a series of individual set stamps in DAS which is then infilled when set with the same type of time dark tile adhesive mix we used for the pavements. This is then sanded down and the sets individually painted...….:D
 

Podartist79

Western Thunderer
I’ve had the great pleasure of finding this thread in the last two days and have read it on and off from page 1-18. It’s an absolutely superb layout in the making and when the time comes I can’t wait to see it in the flesh! (Love Hospital Gates as well)
It’s obvious immediately much time has been taken studying the prototype, it’s the only way such realism can be obtained along with great skill of course!
One thing I need to model is the vertical, close board fencing; is there any chance you could let me know about it’s production? Materials, post and rail sizes? Where from?
Many thanks and I look forward to reading more!
Neil.
 
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Rippers

Western Thunderer
I’ve had the great pleasure of finding this thread in the last two days and have read it on and off from page 1-18. It’s an absolutely superb layout in the making and when the time comes I can’t wait to see it in the flesh! (Love Hospital Gates as well)
It’s obvious immediately much time has been taken studying the prototype, it’s the only way such realism can be obtained along with great skill of course!
One thing I need to model is the vertical, close board fencing; is there any chance you could let me know about it’s production? Materials, post and rail sizes? Where from?
Many thanks and I look forward to reading more!
Neil.

Cheers, we are trying our best with this model and you are right it is a lot of research but it is also a lot of trial and error as in some cases we are literally inventing ways of creating what we want to depict. So gaining those new skill sets often comes with a really steep and time consuming learning curve!:(

As for the fencing you refer to it is built from timber pretty much in the same way as the real thing. Except that it is 43 time smaller and uses glue instead of nails to hold it together. :D
fencing photo.jpg

I didn't have pictures of the fencing on this layout being created, but this one from way back when we were building Hospital gates might give you the idea. Though as that one was an open fence the boarding was thinner and we used a spacer to give the gaps.
 

Rippers

Western Thunderer
In addition to the layout and various scenic detail that have or are being created there has also been a degree of messing about with minerals...…...
min1.jpg
Nowhere near finished but you get the idea.:D
min2.jpg
No salt, no talc, no secret process...….. its just observation of period phots and the application of paint to try and recreate the same look.
min3.jpg
and before you say it I haven't touched the underframes (which are damaged anyway) as these were really for practice.
min4.jpg
 

Al Tait

Western Thunderer
The cobbles are (or at least that is part of the process) whereas the pavements are coast in grey time adhesive mixed with pva glue and poster paint.

The cobbles are created with a series of individual set stamps in DAS which is then infilled when set with the same type of time dark tile adhesive mix we used for the pavements. This is then sanded down and the sets individually painted...….:D

Are the stamps you use home made affairs or propriety? I was looking for some stamps but have ended up casting cobles with a silicon mould.
 
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