7mm Scale 7 MOK 9F in Spain

Kev T

Western Thunderer
Have you any information about the smoke and steam system from Steve. I have in the past fitted a chuffing smoke unit using the Zimo 696, but the one in the photo looks a lot smaller.
Kev
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
Hi Kev, it was one of his own recipes you need to ask the chaps on Love Lane, they might be able to help.

Len
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
Well done Len. I have the sound decoder here ready for you, programmed to Steve Baldock's recipe by John Gymer of YouChoos. Remember if you want to fit Steve's smoke and steam system you will have to find room for the components in the photo (not including the decoder packaging of course!) plus a speaker. As previously discussed Steve made the backhead removable so all the components could slide in and out for maintenance, that may be the biggest challenge.
Robin
View attachment 125068

Thanks Robin, do know how big the sound decoder is I want to fit it in the tender, also I want to fit a stay-alive in it as well? I might make the back head come out so i could make the smoke and steam come out through there. It's a shame the lockdown happened to both Countries, I could have built it with all the steam systems. Regards.

Len
 
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Kev T

Western Thunderer
Len
I made the smoke box front removable so that I can access the front of the boiler where I fixed one of the speakers. I fitted a Zimo 696 in the tender. My preference is to use the 696 as it has a more powerful amplifier as I use 2 low sensitivity speakers.
Kev
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Len

That sound decoder is an HO one, it has more than enough grunt to drive a coreless motor especially the 6 watt Maxon that ABC supply and a reasonable size speaker (but not a massive one) I would recommend one of the cube speakers you can get from Zimo, these are very good and work well with that decoder. You may also need a Plux 22 converter board (ADAPLU50 or 15) to plug the decoder into and then connect the wires to that board they are bit bigger about 45mm long but the same width, this also boosts the current limit to 1.8 amps.
If it isn't the Plux 22 version of the decoder you will need a 21 pin MTC adapter board.

There should be plenty of room in the tender but plan it out before you start building, trying to hack the innards out of a built tender isn't fun.

Richard
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
Morning chaps and chapeses, I will have a go at building the tender it is the BR1C that went 92077. My Vernier went capoot so I am waiting for another one (which in Spain might take awhile). I want to start on the tender chassis, I talked to Dave in 2018 about getting resin brake shoes, he doesn't do them but he sent me the 3d drawings he did for the metal ones. I got Shapeways to make me a set. At the moment I am looking through the Instructions to find what to do.

Len
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
Len

That sound decoder is an HO one, it has more than enough grunt to drive a coreless motor especially the 6 watt Maxon that ABC supply and a reasonable size speaker (but not a massive one) I would recommend one of the cube speakers you can get from Zimo, these are very good and work well with that decoder. You may also need a Plux 22 converter board (ADAPLU50 or 15) to plug the decoder into and then connect the wires to that board they are bit bigger about 45mm long but the same width, this also boosts the current limit to 1.8 amps.
If it isn't the Plux 22 version of the decoder you will need a 21 pin MTC adapter board.

There should be plenty of room in the tender but plan it out before you start building, trying to hack the innards out of a built tender isn't fun.

Richard
Thanks Richard for your reply, I hope to fit the decoder and other fitments in the tender, it's a shame I haven't got all the parts with me now so I can see what I need to do.
Len
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
I have come to the side rocking beams never done rocking beam before for the tender or loco, does anybody now how to fold them in the instructions it said bend them around 180° then flatten them in the vise, how do you do that?
15915638449608892689176753834476.jpg
Len
 

Kev T

Western Thunderer
I made extensive use of a hold and fold. Just fold along the half etched line over as far as you can get, then close up the gap and squeeze with a vice to get it thin. I suspect I will have used a smooth, wide jaw grips to persuade it over the 90deg. before using the jaws of the vice.
My suggestion, if you've not come across these kits before, is to build up the sub assemblies just using the slot and tabs. It's possible to build up quite an extensive assembly to check it and see before adding solder.
Kev
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Do the instructions mention whether the half etch line should be on the inside or outside of the bend. I would hazard a guess at the outside but may be worth checking. Cant see in the photo too clearly.

JB.
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
They should be on the inside but folded over, I will try what Kev suggest's.
I will get a closer view.
15916292278501390810526740148672.jpg
Len
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
The 180 degree folds are on the outside, I've built 2 of his tenders now and the tender chassis are all basically the same.

Richard
 
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