7mm Scale 7 MOK 9F in Spain

M

markjj

Western Thunderer
I use a pair of these to close mine up and a lot of other things to. I originally brought them to push brass bushes into JLTRT diesel resin parts for which they are perfect. The jaws close parallel and dont mark the material as they are smooth.
They can be found on Ebay if anyone is interested.
 

Attachments

  • 20200608_165822.jpg
    20200608_165822.jpg
    111.4 KB · Views: 89
D

David Boorman

Active Member
My preference for removing from etch and also removing the 'tags' is the Lindstrom 'ultra flush' cutters - by far the best cutters in terms of cleanliness of cut BUT rather/very expensive! To me a worthwhile investment - there are a number of sizes and shapes in the Lindstrom range. Lindstrom also have a 'flush' range which are good but just don't have that final cleanliness of cut that the ultra flush deliver.
David
 
Max M

Max M

Western Thunderer
David Boorman said:
My preference ...is the Lindstrom 'ultra flush' cutters
Click to expand...

Have just looked these up....glad I had the defib and oxygen nearby when I saw the price! :eek:
Probably a good investment if you make lots of kits but for occasional use I'll have to stick with my lump hammer and cold chisel. :oops:
 
lankytank

lankytank

Western Thunderer
Have a number of pairs of Lindstrom cutters, various, yellow handled obtained from an ex-employer (just realised that I've now had these for 38 years....!! :eek:) & a 'matched' pair of white handle cutters & pair of pliers (obtained from one of those secondhand 'toolmen' that one occasionally comes across on markets) that I managed to pick up for a fiver the two - no, he didn't know what he'd got - no idea how old these are, I've had them since about the turn of the century.

Can only say that you gets what's you pays for - the only signs of wear are slightly polished handles & the blacking agent has worn of the 'blades' in parts - still as sharp as the day I got 'em.

:thumbs: :thumbs:
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
I've tried this and can't make it work for me. The edges come out wavy and with occasional dinks and depressions. I've also seen sanding drums used but same problem for me. However I know that there are many who make it work well for themselves. I'll stick with files, but as with all things it's horses for courses.

Brian
 
M

markjj

Western Thunderer
I use a pair of medical scissors known as operating scissors sharp blunt. I got mine from Tesco originally they used to cost about £4 in their first aid bit in the bigger stores. I haven't been able to find them where I now live but then most of our Tescos are tiny compared to the big English ones...
This is a link to them on Ebay

Range Of Surgical Scissors Dental Cutting / Dressing Medical Laboratory Tools CE | eBay

I find the art is to cut the fret where you cant get in with the scissors they leave very little distortion and I have used to same 2 pairs for close on 7 years now. I have cut a great many brass and nickel silver bits out with them.
 
M

markjj

Western Thunderer
Len Cattley said:
I have come to the side rocking beams never done rocking beam before for the tender or loco, does anybody now how to fold them in the instructions it said bend them around 180° then flatten them in the vise, how do you do that?
View attachment 125323
Len
Click to expand...

Going back to the tender rocking beam instructions I had a look through a few of my other MOK kit instructions and found this in what are the worst of Dave's instructions. These are from the Stanier tender included with the 8f kits but give the best detailed instruction as to how to do the rocking beams. It may be too late for now but maybe useful if anyone else finds this thread in future. The page is copyrighted to MOK but I'm sure Dave wont mind me sharing it if it helps anyone.
20200611_083408.jpg
 
Len Cattley

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
markjj said:
I use a pair of these to close mine up and a lot of other things to. I originally brought them to push brass bushes into JLTRT diesel resin parts for which they are perfect. The jaws close parallel and dont mark the material as they are smooth.
They can be found on Ebay if anyone is interested.
Click to expand...

What are these called Mark?

Len
 
Len Cattley

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
Len Cattley

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
Can anybody help me with the instructions as it's not clear on some of the parts.
15919489273026433893727338276196.jpg
Parts 068, 069 it doesn't show where they go.15919490975034155348372344262664.jpg also where does Chassis Spreader 15919493164931685261417003804656.jpg go, as I can't se it on the instructions 102, 103, 104?
Len
 
Eastsidepilot

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
I can see your confusion, in the upper image parts 102-104 have an arrow pointing to them but they are marked as 068-069 ?:confused: these are not in the image :confused:
Col.
 
SimonT

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Your two parts numbered 069 on the fret are numbered 039 in the 9G instructions and are fitted to the underside of the footplate as one of the first steps of the build on page 1 of the tender instructions.
 
Len Cattley

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
SimonT said:
Your two parts numbered 069 on the fret are numbered 039 in the 9G instructions and are fitted to the underside of the footplate as one of the first steps of the build on page 1 of the tender instructions.
Click to expand...
They only mention them on page 16 on the BR 1B/C instructions, I realise where they go now, still haven't found where 068 goes yet.

Len
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top