Attaching Etched Plates

Joe1980

Western Thunderer
Hello All,

Im in the process of finishing off a refurbishment of an old Airfix class 31 and have some etched shedplates to attach. What’s the best and most risk-free way of doing it?

I’m sure it’s been asked a million times, but sometimes consensus/techniques change.

(I’ve also attached a photo of the refurbish progress so far.)

Cheers!

DB0DA43A-D208-485F-9622-85966DB9CEC0.jpeg
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Since shed plates are tiny, especially in 4mm, I’d try a spot of gloss varnish or, if you’re feeling brave, super glue, applied with the tip of a pin.

If you’re worried about alignment, an ‘L’ of masking tape applied to line up the the spot will help.

Adam
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi Joe , i have used double sided tape , not the foam type obviously but there is one that is like sellotape but you peel the backing off to reveal more sticky . I put it onto the plate then trim around and remove the backing and then place into position and press . I also use low tak masking tape to give me horizontal and vertical lines for alignment , easier to reposition than the plate .
Cheers Paul
 

Joe1980

Western Thunderer
Hi Joe , i have used double sided tape , not the foam type obviously but there is one that is like sellotape but you peel the backing off to reveal more sticky . I put it onto the plate then trim around and remove the backing and then place into position and press . I also use low tak masking tape to give me horizontal and vertical lines for alignment , easier to reposition than the plate .
Cheers Paul

Thanks Paul. I like the sound of that too, as I have some in the house.
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
I tried double sided tape once. It is extremely difficult to get the plate exactly in the correct position AND lined up horizontally as the tape grabs too quickly. I have gone back to using a tiny spot of varnish on the model and the plate slid onto it and lined up. No clean up needed.
Ian.
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
As it's show and tell..............personally I prefer varnish or canopy glue. Both work well for me. Double sided tape is a no-no as far as I'm concerned. Not only does it grab too quickly, as Ian says, but the adhesive also rots over time so there's a risk of the item falling off and you're left with a sticky mess. Look at the way Sellotape degrades over time when used to repair paper. Admittedly over a lot of years but my earliest 7mm models are easily 30 years old.

Brian
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Well, whilst I hear the objections, I have always used double sided tape, my first 7mm model, a Springside 45xx, is about to have a heavy overhaul - including fitting springing and a non-whiny Premier 2-stage to replace the Portescap. The loco was painted and plates fitted, I think in the autumn of 1997, and they’re still there!

I made a plasticard guide in the form of an “L” to give me the location.

Atb
Simon
 
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LarryG

Western Thunderer
When it comes to attaching engraved plates, I used lightly smeared Evostik. As in so many areas of modelling, there are numerous ways to skin a cat.
 

NickK

Active Member
I,ve always used a smear of silicon sealant for any etched plates, do one side, leave over night then do the other. Easy to remove the plate and the sealant if needed without damaging the paintwork. Tried it after I had a tiler in to do some work and that is what he used for wall tiles. When the came to be removed the skim coat of plaster stayed on the wall, not the back of the tile.

Nick
 

PhilH

Western Thunderer
Just as important as making the plates stick is sticking them in the correct position !

Plates 001.jpg

I use plastikard guides or templates located against some fixed level item such as the footplate - as shown for the works plate above. The one on the tank is located by an angle on the rear of the guide bearing against the top of the tank.

Plates 002.jpg

The guides are held in position by masking tape and the plate located and held in position by a narrow strip of masking tape. Using the masking tape as a hinge the plate is turned over and the adhesive applied, then the plate is turned back and fixed in position.

For 7mm scale plates I've previously used a thin smear of araldite and transparent guides to check that no adhesive leaks out under the guide. However for larger live steam locos I've recently used clear silicone sealant, and this method is described by Tony Wilmore of Rhos Helyg Loco Works here: MDC name, number and works plates - at the bottom of the page.

It seems to work very well even on glossy surfaces, but I haven't tried it on smaller scale models yet.
 
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