7mm IGA Cargowaggon Flat (Appleby Model Engineering)

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
I picked up my IGA kits form John at Telford and here are a few pictures to show what you get and how I've been getting on.

The wagon is an IGA Cargowaggon flat based on the second version built in 1986 by Wagon Union in Germany. The details are all crisply etched and only a minimal amount of flash needed cleaning off the whitemetal bogies. The pictures tell the story so far.

1 AME 7MM IGA KIT.jpg2 AME 7MM IGA pipe and deck details.jpg3 AME 7MM IGA buffers and fastening details.jpg4 AME 7MM IGA decking planks.jpg5 AME 7MM IGA bogie stanchion and buffer beam.jpg6 AME 7MM IGA build 1.jpg7 AME 7MM IGA build 2.jpg

The magnet and bluetack advice worked a treat whilst I was soldering the sides on :)

I've ordered some extra details from Germany and am awaiting them at the moment. Watch this space...

Cheers

Tom
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Build pictures part 2:

IGA BUILD 3.jpgIGA BUILD 3.1.jpgIGA BUILD 3.3.jpg

Forming and soldering those 42 cable ties from 0.8mm brass wire was one of the most tedious tasks I've ever done. Thank goodness that's all done now :D

As you can see the are some holes (or varying shape) which are for the bracket supports. Most of them are too big which means the cast brass support doesn't stay in place nicely for soldering. I solder it from the back and as I discovered earlier, there is a tendency for the solder to spill out on to the front. Any suggestions how to stop that?

Cheers

Tom
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Build pictures part 2:
As you can see the are some holes (or varying shape) which are for the bracket supports. Most of them are too big which means the cast brass support doesn't stay in place nicely for soldering. I solder it from the back and as I discovered earlier, there is a tendency for the solder to spill out on to the front. Any suggestions how to stop that?
Blimey that's a big one!

As for the soldering my only suggestion, which you may already be doing anyway, is put the iron on the back of the casting, not the brass sheet. It won't stop it happening but it may minimise it. Solder will always go to the heat
so if you are heating up the brass sheet with the iron then you'll end up with solder on it. If you heat up the casting from the rear with the iron then the solder wont have as much chance to flow onto the brass.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Try putting solder mask... or black permanent marker around the area where the casting will touch the solebar (like a bund). The solder will not run across the mask / pen and hence stays where you apply it.
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Blimey that's a big one!

As for the soldering my only suggestion, which you may already be doing anyway, is put the iron on the back of the casting, not the brass sheet. It won't stop it happening but it may minimise it. Solder will always go to the heat
so if you are heating up the brass sheet with the iron then you'll end up with solder on it. If you heat up the casting from the rear with the iron then the solder wont have as much chance to flow onto the brass.

Adrian, control yourself ;)

Yes, I was soldering from the back to try and minimise as you suggested. It's just that the fitting holes which are a bit 20pence like in shape (I think they've etched badly) were letting too much solder through. It's good to know I'm not the only one thinking that was the right way to go about it too though :)

Cheers

Tom
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Try putting solder mask... or black permanent marker around the area where the casting will touch the solebar (like a bund). The solder will not run across the mask / pen and hence stays where you apply it.


The permanent marker pen advice is the best bit I've had all day. It's worked a treat. Only minimal solder leakage now (hardly noticeable). After such a bad day on it yesterday with solder in places I really didn't want it, I gave up and left it overnight. After seeing your advice I decided to remove the parts, remove all the solder and try your tip - and it's worked amazingly. Thank you so much!:thumbs:

Cheers

Tom
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
The good thing about using permanent marker pen is that it is not permanent - given what modellers have in the toolbox. A cotton bud and one of Mek-Pak / Butanone / Iso-Propyl-Alcohol generally removes the marker with reasonable ease.

Of course, the trick also works with valve gear components.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
The good thing about using permanent marker pen is that it is not permanent - given what modellers have in the toolbox. A cotton bud and one of Mek-Pak / Butanone / Iso-Propyl-Alcohol generally removes the marker with reasonable ease.

Of course, the trick also works with valve gear components.

So too does chemical blackening and if you need something a little 'stronger' than a permanent marker then Tipp-Ex works well, leave it to dry for a couple of minutes before soldering near it though...

Steph
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Part 3:

The solder mess -
IGA SUPPORTS SOLDERmess 3.jpg

The nice and tidy redone version with Dog Star's permanent marker method -
IGA SUPPORTS RESOLDER 1.jpg


Nearly finished putting on all the side details -
IGA SUPPORTS RESOLDER 2.jpg

I'm working on the end details now. There are a few omissions from the kit but nothing that some brass wire, a drill, Grandt line rivets, and a few brass rings won't sort out. More to follow soon.

Cheers

Tom
 

Temeraire

Western Thunderer
I'd love to have a stab at one of these but have never been able to contact Appleby (despite several attempts in the last couple of years) to find out prices or indeed actually order anything! The only catalogue I have is a good ten years old so an up-to-date one would be good too.

How do you order from them?

Looks like a good start though Tom, be intereting to see the finish article.
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Part 4:

After lots of soldering tiny details and more research the wagon is beginning to take shape nicely. It's starting to look very wagon like as opposed to a half built kit:). So here is the prototype end showing the wealth of details I've got to hunt down -
6 IGA end PART 4.jpg

I've ordered some details/wheels from Germany but the first pack arrived today. Now you get air pipes with the kit but unfortunately the taps are right handed but IGAs have left handed ones. However, after lots of googling in German I tracked these ones down produced by Weinert Modellbau air pipes -
4 IGA AIR PIPES.jpg
I think these air pipes are spot of for what I'm doing and they even come with minute hose which looks far closer to the prototype than what UK suppliers normally offer.

I've also started doing my own end modifications and still have the rings and U shapes to fabricate. You can see I've taken a chunk of the bufferbeam below the coupling housing out and fitted some strip which was laying around in the scrap etches box.
5 IGA PART 4 AME AIR PIPE & BUFFERBEAM.jpg

I've also fashioned my own continental style lamp irons from 1.5mm square tube soldered to 1.5mm strip
1 IGA PART 4.jpg
The whole ensemble getting there -
2 IGA PART 4.jpg
3 IGA PART 4.jpg

More to follow soon.

Cheers

Tom
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Progress has paused until later this week. The body is 95% complete now. Just the stanchions left to solder on but they're not going on until I have soldered the bogie bolsters to the underside of the floor. And that is the reason for the pause. My package from Germany was despatched today (the shop had a one week closure last week). When it arrives the wheels will be here. I can size them up, build the bogies around them and then hey presto it'll be structurally complete. Then only painting left. I'll post some more pics once the wheels are here and the bogies are done! TBC

However, one request - I like adding as much detail as possible as I think it adds important depth to models. If you look closely at the air pipes there is always an aluminium clip over the rubber pipe adjacent to the tap. That is something I'd like to replicate. So has anyone ever seen any silver/steel/aluminium tape/strip that is 1mm or less wide anywhere please?

Cheers

Tom
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
If you look closely at the air pipes there is always an aluminium clip over the rubber pipe adjacent to the tap. That is something I'd like to replicate. So has anyone ever seen any silver/steel/aluminium tape/strip that is 1mm or less wide anywhere please?

How about cutting your own strips from a foil milk bottle top? Easy to shape and fairly rigid too. :)


Regards

Dan
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
How about cutting your own strips from a foil milk bottle top? Easy to shape and fairly rigid too. :)


Regards

Dan

Thanks Dan, you and me were obviously thinking along the same wave length then. The foil is fragile but very malleable and just fine for wrapping round the pipe with some tweezers.

Cheers

Tom
 

Temeraire

Western Thunderer
Where did you order the Weinert air pipes from Tom? My limited Googling skills came up blank :(

Worth ordering just for that rubber tubing alone.....
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Where did you order the Weinert air pipes from Tom? My limited Googling skills came up blank :(

Worth ordering just for that rubber tubing alone.....

For the Weinert pipes click on the link in post 14 above, and select 'Vereinigtes Königreich' as the county for delivery.

If you're after just the tubing I'd suggest looking at the model car sites. They make tubing down to about 0.5mm in black and all sorts of other colours. I've used www.hiroboy.com for tubing, tiny bolts and other associated details before.

Cheers

Tom
 

Pugsley

Western Thunderer
Similar tubing can be got by going into a fishing tackle shop and asking for pole rubber, which is actually some kind of silicone tube instead. The only thing I'm not sure about is whether it comes in black.
 
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