Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Hi Dave,Can I ask what scale this Toad van is please
Dave
It's 7mm and will be built to f/s
Regards,
Richard
Hi Dave,Can I ask what scale this Toad van is please
Dave
Can I ask what made you choose the Southwark Bridge kit over say an Connoisseur kit (AA19) of which I'm building a 1/32 model of, see the 1/32 section on here. Or an WEP kit (AA16), just interested that's all.Hi Dave,
It's 7mm and will be built to f/s
Regards,
Richard
Hi Dave,Hi Richard
Would you be interested in an accurate running number to go with the shed allocation you are going to have?
Regards
Dave
I did spend a considerable amount of time on the floor hunting rouge brake shoes Why can I always find the rubbish but not the part Im looking for?
This is the sporting element of modelling . Huntingtigers in Indiaaaahrogue parts. It's not only the rubbish I find but the parts which disappeared from previous builds months ago.
Perhaps I should just set up my bench on the floor.......
What I have discovered over the years is that you have to be crafty. If you are convinced that the offending part has bounced on the floor and shot to the left then always look to the right and vice versa. It also amazes me just how far tiny pieces of brass/nickel silver can travel given that they only drop about 30 inches or so. I think the record so far is about 8 feet!! When you spend hours making a critical component from scratch, let's say, playing 'hunt the part' takes on a whole new importance (sad puppy that I am).I've often thought that. With all the parts on the floor there may be a full kit lurking of a unique prototype.....
Hi Andrew,What I have discovered over the years is that you have to be crafty. If you are convinced that the offending part has bounced on the floor and shot to the left then always look to the right and vice versa. It also amazes me just how far tiny pieces of brass/nickel silver can travel given that they only drop about 30 inches or so. I think the record so far is about 8 feet!! When you spend hours making a critical component from scratch, let's say, playing 'hunt the part' takes on a whole new importance (sad puppy that I am).
Keep up the good work,
Regards
Andrew
P.S. I have had the pleasure of building a fair number of Southwark Bridge kits over the years and as a result of our shared passion for the LSWR a long standing friendship developed with Ivan Smith, the original owner of the business who, very sadly, is no longer with us. I was always very impressed by the fidelity of his etches, the fit and finish and overall quality of the kits ( at very competitive prices too). Fortunately, as has already been mentioned, Dave Hammersley of Roxey Mouldings has taken over the range and is intending to steadily re-introduce the 7mm kits as time permits.
Soldering thin overlays on a really big heat sink is never going to be easy - whether you have an RSU or not. I definitely go for the bigger iron as you want to get heat in as quick as possible. The large side will only dissipate heat like mad and the 50W iron will struggle to keep up.I didn't find this worked too well for me, perhaps I didn't tin enough or the heat wasn't transferring through (450 degrees and 50W) Also, the instructions warn from adding too much heat to the ends of the sides.
Hi Adrian,Soldering thin overlays on a really big heat sink is never going to be easy - whether you have an RSU or not. I definitely go for the bigger iron as you want to get heat in as quick as possible. The large side will only dissipate heat like mad and the 50W iron will struggle to keep up.
Personally I very rarely bother with tinning - especially on thin overlay. Actually applying the heat whilst tinning the overlays can distort them and I always end up cleaning up the overlays before soldering them on and cleaning them up again etc. So being lazy I'd just smear a little solder cream on the overlay and then solder it in place. Probably as recommended use the soldering iron on the rear of the side, however when I do this I also add a little solder cream on the rear - I find the heat transfer works a lot better if the soldering iron has some solder contact with the sheet. I'd also use a small block of hardwood strip to hold the overlay in place.