1470 GWR 0-4-2T MOK Kit

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Alex,
as I bear a level of responsibility for this, I'll bring the 64XX along to Larkrail so that you can see how Dave's design works out. With a shed of loco's to build I've taken the pragmatic approach and built it as designed and then used washers to control the side play.

SimonT
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Simon said:
I'm keeping quiet about "Watersmeet" though -oops:oops:
Simon, your plan to build a 1/32nd Bulleid Light Pacific next? My lips are sealed, after all, careless talk costs lives! Have you contacted the possible Bulleid-Firth-Brown wheel supplier yet? We should "race", my advantage of having a kit is clearly offset by my past form and lack of progress to-date!

Alex

You're on!

I reckon it could be a bit of a marathon though:))

I've found quite a few more pictures of 34030 in my book collection it's been absolute hell looking:p

Well done for "taking the plunge", I do like 14XXs a lot too....

Simon
 

S7BcSR

Western Thunderer
Alex

I'll iterate what others have said, welcome to the S7 Group.

If you are interested in meeting others locally there is an Area Group that covers the Bristol Area (Severnside Group)and is run by Peter Drost and his phone no. is in the Membership List you should have been sent (Peter doesn't use email), so give him a ring. If you haven't been sent a Membership List just let me know and I will let you have Peter's phone no. This group usually meet about 6 times a year and have a forthcoming meeting on 18th August in Cardiff. The next one is then 3rd November in Chippenham. This group are very good at discussing options and solutions to problems with models when they meet.

There is also the Crediton Group but they have members in North Somerset. This group meets monthly on a Saturday in Crediton and is a very active group among whom are developers of bits and pieces. It may be worth ringing John Day (another who doesn't use email, I'm afraid). Their next meeting is 17th August. I am sure you could arrange to meet up with someone on route if you didn't wish to drive all the way.

I am probably repeating what you have already found out as all this information is in the Newsletter which Ron should have sent you.

Hope this is of use to you, happy, as Secretary, to answer any other general S7 queries but there are many far better and more knowledgeable models than me.

Rob
 

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
Alex

It's just occurred to me that Cynric Williams (Western Thunder's founder who sadly passed away in January), has built the MOK 14xx in S7. A few pictures of it featured on an earlier version of RMweb and this link will hopefully take you there....

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=14492

Hope it's of use and/or inspiration to you - I was certainly impressed by the excellent job Cynric had made of it. :thumbs:

Dan's post and the link reminded me that Cynric drew up revised frame artwork for ScaleSeven and was happy to distribute it to anyone who asked. Thanks to Bruce Wilson in Canada I now have a copy of Cynric's dxf file, so if you'd like that Alex (and anyone else who wants a copy), I can send it to you, just drop me a PM. Cynric used PPD for etching and they may even still have the phototool, but if not a new one can be made from the file.
 

Stumpytrain

Active Member
Right, time to resurrect this thread! Thanks once again for everyone's thoughts, guidance and encouragement so far.

Wheels

I'm 99% committed to going down the Slater's wheels, turned to S7 by Christopher Makepeace and converted to split axle a la Steph Dale route.

I've trawled the internet over the past couple of days but I haven't been able to work what's required to convert carrying wheel axles to ScaleSeven. Slater's only listing a replacement axle for driving wheels. Are the square end axles only used on the driving wheels (for quartering purposes) with trailing axles using round axles just set at a different back to back?

If I order by phone can the wheels be supplied with ScaleSeven axles instead or do these come bundled with Finescale ones wether we like it or not?

My shopping list currently stands at:
  • Slater's 7862GW 5'2" 16 Spoke Driving Wheels x 2
  • Slater's 7843 3'7" 10 Spoke Bogie/Tender Wheel (General Pattern)
  • Slater's X78002S Driving Wheel Axle for Scale7. With Screws x 2
Have I forgotten anything?
Cheers,
Alex
 

Stumpytrain

Active Member
With a shed of loco's to build I've taken the pragmatic approach and built it as designed and then used washers to control the side play.


Simon, It's been so long since I cast my eyes upon your 6400 I can't remember how much packing was required to limit the side play. Could I trouble you with a photograph perhaps? I've been trawling through the instructions recently and considerable effort is required to widen the frames, probably more than your 6400 because of the trailing wheel outside frame, but part of me feels like it's the right thing to do!

Dan's post and the link reminded me that Cynric drew up revised frame artwork for ScaleSeven and was happy to distribute it to anyone who asked. Thanks to Bruce Wilson in Canada I now have a copy of Cynric's dxf file, so if you'd like that Alex (and anyone else who wants a copy), I can send it to you, just drop me a PM. Cynric used PPD for etching and they may even still have the phototool, but if not a new one can be made from the file.

This ties in nicely with what I was just talking about. I'll drop you a PM now. It will be interesting to see what Cynric felt needed replacing as he deviated considerably from what MOK provided in order to experiment with CSBs and most of the ScaleSeven mods he mentions on forums were body work corrections to smokebox saddle and splashers etc. caused by the need to handle Finescale standards.

Cheers,

Alex
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Alex,
Ref your question on Slater's axles; unless clearly marked as such they all use a common 3/16" square-ended axle, so you'll need to add another S7 one to your list.
Steph
 

Stumpytrain

Active Member
Alex,
Ref your question on Slater's axles; unless clearly marked as such they all use a common 3/16" square-ended axle, so you'll need to add another S7 one to your list.
Steph


Thanks Steph, that's just what I needed to know. The description Driving Wheel Axle was confusing me somewhat! :rolleyes:

Alex
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Alex,
I'll strip it down tomorrow and measure the thickness of the washers. This should encourage me to sort out the new wheels with the correct throw!
However, I've just done a trial fit of the leading drivers on the first 42XX to check for clearance between the various rods. The frames are 27mm over width, axle boxes 27.2mm and a selection of washers each side that add up to 1.8mm have given me smooth running with a small amount of end float. I will use that for the driven axle as well and give a little more for the other driving wheels. The 64xx is 27.48 over the rear frame extension, so 1.7 to 1.8mm of washer on each side would put you in the right ball park. The washers are from Slaters and I always deburr them and polish them on some fine grit to ensure that they are smooth.

All the best

Simon
 

Stumpytrain

Active Member
Well, I've ordered the wheels. Progress, albeit still nothing that requires me to pick up a tool (unless a credit card counts as a tool?!), but progress nonetheless!

If my vernier calliper skills can be believed then, if the kit was built as designed, the frames would be 26.25mm over width. I'm still torn between the simplicity of building the kit as designed and reducing side play with washers or my anally retentive desire to get things as right much as possible! However, as it's such a well designed kit there are a LOT of components that would need to be made or altered. Though I'm sure if I succeed in doing that the work would involve useful lessons in piercing saw skills etc. It will be interesting to see what parts Cynric saw fit to replace with his etch design as that might save a lot of effort!

Cheers,
Alex
 

West Junction

Western Thunderer
Hi Alex

I have started to build a MOK 14xx to S7 and like you would have liked to have the frames at scale width but in the end chickened out due to all the necessary changes. I was concerned that being a fold up frame plus having to fix the horn guides before folding the frame up that I might have a problem with the coupling rod/axle centres being at different centres. I therefore turned up a couple of buttons from an old Slaters axle so that at least I could make sure that each side the coupling rod/bearings were in line. I needn't have worried as everything was ok and the chassis (so far without the motor) runs perfectly.

The chassis across the bearings is 26.65mm, I turned up some brass spacer washers and these are 2.05 mm thick. It may not be perfect (although so far the etches are) but at least I should finish it rather than it ending up in the bin. One bit of advice read and re-read the instructions as they are not perfect (as I believe the later kits were) and there are some mistakes in part numbers. I will try and take some photos of my humble efforts (That MOK mogul on one of the other threads is beautiful) and post them here, I also have some photos taken at Didcot of a 14xx.
If you want to pass on the photos I took at Ashburton and previously posted here please do.
If anybody is interested I could post a few black and white photos of locos I took at Buckfastleigh in 1969.

Peter
 

West Junction

Western Thunderer
Hi Alex

Here are couple of photographs of my 14xx chassis showing the effect of the fine scale frames in S7. Obviously with the body on the effect is nowhere near as bad. Another thing to notice are the holes for the plunger pickups, because the S7 wheel flanges are much finer than with finescale the centre of the plunger is nearer the edge of the flange which will make part of it visible. It would be interesting to hear how others deal with this.

IMG_0417.JPG

IMG_0413.JPG

IMG_0471.JPG

Peter
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello Alex,
I've just come across this thread, I did a photo build on RMweb of a 517 from the JLTRT kit, with a bit of luck this link should take you to the first page of the build (starts at mess No. 1582).
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/in...a-jltrt-kit-re-starts-on-p74-by-ozzyo/page-64

Most locos had the inside of the frames set at 4'1 1/4" (approx 28.75mm). The 517 had only narrow frame spacers so I cut them down the middle and inserted a strip to pack them out. I also fitted a wider strip below the first one to add some strength to the packing strip.

If you do widen the frames you will have to reduce any of the parts that fit on the outside of the frames. The steps and outside frames I fitted to the body. As the frames are a fold up box type it would probable be best to do the packing while the frames are in the flat.

HTH

OzzyO.

PS. I used Gibson 4mm plungers on this build on all 6 wheels.
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Well, I've ordered the wheels. Progress, albeit still nothing that requires me to pick up a tool (unless a credit card counts as a tool?!), but progress nonetheless!

If my vernier calliper skills can be believed then, if the kit was built as designed, the frames would be 26.25mm over width. I'm still torn between the simplicity of building the kit as designed and reducing side play with washers or my anally retentive desire to get things as right much as possible! However, as it's such a well designed kit there are a LOT of components that would need to be made or altered. Though I'm sure if I succeed in doing that the work would involve useful lessons in piercing saw skills etc. It will be interesting to see what parts Cynric saw fit to replace with his etch design as that might save a lot of effort!

Cheers,
Alex

It's been over two years since you posted - is that soldering iron hot yet?....


Regards

Dan
 
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