7mm 18000 Kerosene Castle

[thruxton]

Hi All

Work in progress shot mostly mdf, styrene and polyfilla at this point.

Next stage is blocking out (Oasis foam pushed into all crevices) and a skinning of car body filler.

That wiil be followed by application of etched details such as windor frames, grilles, door panels etc.

Final results to be cast in resin.

Item lower left is the start of cosmetic bogies (intended to fit ABC working varieties) with which I would welcome any out there in translating my 2D axlebox and springs drawings into 3D printable files .

 

[thruxton]

Typo; I would welcome any HELP out there in translating.......etc

 

[Ian G]

any photos/drawings?

Ian G

 

[thruxton]

Something like this?

I believe thnear end bogie of the loco at Didcot is pretty much original- the other has had substantial alterations.

 

[thruxton]

This image drawn by Julia Adams for a 2mm scale project gives a pretty good idea of the springs/axlebox arrangements.

 

[Big Train James]

Two questions:
1) Can the existing version not be scaled up to 7mm, and
2) How comprehensive is your data to work from.

I might be interested in some 3d cad if you have good info to start with. I love to draw, but especially if the I've got lot's of accurate dimensions. Filling in blanks might be difficult with my limited exposure to British prototypes.

Jim

 

[thruxton]

Hi Jim

I have already asked Julia a similar question and presently await her response. In any event a straight rescaling might not be the answer as I would prefer to work to my existing bogie frame fixing arrangements and dimensions including and that little lot might involve a complete rework which I am not skilled to do.

Regarding reference info, I already have my own 2D vector drawings of each and every component with proposed assembly to the existing frame design, 'though it might take a week or so for me to tidy my working drawings to something presentable. I could email these for you have a look at before making any decisions.

Les

 

[Big Train James]

I like vector drawings. Makes things simple(r). I currently am working in 3d AutoCAD. I have Rhino but I'm not especially fluent in it. And I have some exposure to solidworks but no current access to the program. So vector files in dwg format would be best.

It will help significantly if you already have geometries created in 2d. Send me something to review now if you like or later if that suits you better.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[thruxton]

I like vector drawings. Makes things simple(r). I currently am working in 3d AutoCAD. I have Rhino but I'm not especially fluent in it. And I have some exposure to solidworks but no current access to the program. So vector files in dwg format would be best.

It will help significantly if you already have geometries created in 2d. Send me something to review now if you like or later if that suits you better.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[thruxton]

Just waiting to hear from Julia re her 3D files but she has already sent me additional images to the abovge which are a great help in visualising the overall layout.

Plea for help- does anyone have a photo of the No2 end cab bulkhead of the loco at Didcot (ie as original, formerly non-boiler end)? This should indicate the original layout of what were various glass fronted switchgear and monitoring cupboards. I'm still early enough in the build to incorporate thes details.

One (!) area that eludes my absolute certainty is the precise pattern of the roof slots and sliding shutters (?) over the combustion chamber- 'though my best guess to date seems to look pretty reasonable.

 

[oldravendale]

I reckon the info you need is out there somewhere! There's been a working, possibly 5" model of GT3 demonstrated at a few of the Model Engineers' Exhibitions in London (although I've not been to the last couple) and the same group were building 18000 and 18100 as well. Try the Gas Turbine Builders Association. Try this youtube video too.

As far as I remember they had vast amounts of info, drawings and photos. I'll be very interested to hear how you get on.

Brian

 

[thruxton]

Thanks for that , Brian, I hope you are right. I've already been in touch with the GTBA and I think they will freely admit getting their projects to look right and work is more important than ultimate scale detailing which can itself become an all too diverting series of red herrings .

Checking through my refernces to 18000, 18100 and GT3, they too could be considered vast (around ten years off/on research), but none clearly define the details mentioned above (note there are plenty of erroneous offerings and plainly fictitious imaginings amongst the various drawings; some quite probably deliberately misleading).

I think roof details in particular often come down to finding that serendipity moment of the right amateur or works photo surviving into one of the ever expanding specialist libraries, and then hoping the search engines produce the right sesults. I'm aware of a few published images which have since become 'lost' from (or within) their reference sources. I was very lucky finding and recording good roof shots of GT3 at the NRM- next time I went, they'd gone.

Re the roof cooling slots; the plan is for these will be easily replaced should better info be forthcoming.

Re. the bulkhead, last time I prearranged my 200 mile plus journey to Didcot the local access road was blocked (shed load) and on visiting Howes was told the centre was anyway shut to the public for filming of Trainspotting Live! At least I found out our Nissan Note could do 500 miles on
a tankfull of diesel................ squeaky bum time heading north past Catterick.

Les

 

[thruxton]

Well, talk about coincidence, one serendipity moment just arrived, courtesy of an rmweb link.

Excellent, clear, colour overhead shot of 18000 in late service to be found here;

18000

 

[thruxton]

Shot of main body components before everything starts getting hidden. The cove level styrene is channel defining the locations of body and roof handholds- these are about to be trimmed back to the double rib thickness which wiil then allow the remain ribs to be fitted from above (roof is loose at this stage.

I tend to use styrene for hard edges, it bonds perfectly with a fused joint to MDF by flooding with any of the various plastic modelling 'liquid glues'.

Note the location of the roof handrail channel has been moved upwards to better correspond with the overhead picture linked above.

Next stage is to stuff all cavities with Oasis grey (brittle) foam prior to skinning the foam with auto body filler.

 

[Compton castle]

Following with interest, this is one loco I would love to have in 7mm

 

[thruxton]

Hi Compton,

This must have been done before as ABC already have the bogie in their lists. With a bit of luck, the model will be both convincing and work ( I'm designing chassis and bogies to accept Scale 7 widths to operate to approx 2 metre curves, at least on virtual paper).

If so, as far as my cottage industry facilities allow (ie kitchen table and damp garage in the cold North East of England) , a very short production run may be possible- I'll be happy to get one out of the project!

 

[thruxton]

Quick update after Oasis foam stuffing and initial application of car body filler. The filler was thin enough (2 to 4mm) for easy cutting through for the cove grille. The roof is just loosely placed and will have a 0.1 mm skinning, apart from areas marked X- these will eventually be cut back with a brass overlay for the roof vents.

Despite the grainy pics (hand held iPhone), you can just make out the repositioning of the roof handholds (presently filled with plasticene).

Still awaiting further info on No2 end cab bulkhead.

 

[oldravendale]

I'm not sure how widely it's been recognised how revolutionary this approach to scratch building actually is. Personally I would never, ever have considered the use of Oasis as a base for a loco body, whether skinned with Plasticard, fibreglass or any other medium. The whole approach is, for me, inspirational. After all, if you get the first trial wrong for 50p and admittedly a great deal of hard work, you can start again.

I'm watching developments in absolute awe. (And I love the prototype too).

Brian

 

[thruxton]

Brian

Thanks for the kind comments.

Good things about Oasis it is pretty well impervious to most modelling glues, paints etc, carves like butter with even a butter knife, crushes where needed and can be a virtually dust free material.

Having learned the hard way, I avoid using anything waterbased at this stage of the work- MDF can swell badly and oasis can take an age to dry out (it is after all used for flower arranging).

Once it has had a coat of primer I hope the photos will become clearer.

 

[thruxton]

A quick word on styrene sheet and sections.

Alongside the usual Slaters Plastikard, Evergreen Styrene and Plastruct, I find the Super Styrene range of Raboesch very useful.

This comes in metric sizing up to a metre long and is generally sold through marine modelling outlets ( UK; Cornwall Model Boats, Deans Marine etc). I think the material is ABS and bonding is enhanced by degreasing.