A table-top train set.

jonte

Western Thunderer
While I wait for the primer to dry, attention has turned to all matters permanent way- or as this just a train-set, perhaps the term ‘track’ is more apt.

Now, I’ve yet to explain why I decided to rip up my handbuilt rails, and it saddens me to have done so, but the long and short of it is that life is too short to start adding plastic chairs and the odd sleeper or two here and there, so I had to bite the bullet.

My intention was to keep the tramway crossings, but for reasons that may become clear, this required the presence of a Peco short radius; as one is yet to be produced, if ever, in the latest bullhead track series, this was a non-starter (I did post a clue to my intention of using B/H track in an earlier post, but just in case, I’ve decided to go with the new Peco track at the front of the layout).

I also needed to address the problem with the handbuilt first radius curve to the left of the layout. You may recall that ‘Jones the goods’ wasn’t too keen. Well, it turned out that my latest acquision, also a six-coupled, wasn’t having any of it either, so it had to go.

It transpired that it wasn’t first radius after all: it was even tighter - a fact I’d conveniently forgotten about. Possibly for the sake of expediency, it mattered not at the time, my main stay in the form of a GP-38 was quite at home with it, there being no reason to change. The Dukedog being a four coupler was also quite comfortable negotiating the bend at a range of speeds, but unless I kept my stable to this type, it was never going to work in the long term, so out this came too. I’ve since noticed a change in height between the base of the curve and entry to the main board, but this was not a factor in the derailment as it was designed to take up the height difference between proprietary code 100 and handbuilt code 75 bullhead. It will be a problem, however, for the new layout, so this is being addressed.

So there we have it.

This apart, the layout is still straight and true as the day it was built, apart from an unsupported corner at front right, which while not too bad at present, could prove problematic in the future, so a block and some off cuts of ply were glued and clamped to the board - and adjacent supports - below the offending corner:

8520F11D-7EFD-4FEC-A110-E4B8222FFBC7.jpeg

A countersunk screw provided a controlled amount of adjustment, but this may need filing down if it impedes the trackwork, as unfortunately, the fascia framework obstructed the orbit of the drill, resulting in the sink not being symmetrical. Another problem of changing the purpose of a layout.

Here’s a picture showing the gradient I mentioned:

D87FE5A6-6320-496D-82CA-2633E4106B20.jpeg

Okay, it’s only slight, but still it needs addressing if smooth and reliable running is to be achieved. The newly acquired Peco Setrack curve is ideal for helping to illustrate the problem and an ideal gauge for marking out, such are the benefits of elementary modelling it seems.

Apologies for the poor lighting in this next shot, but hopefully you can just make out how the long-bodied Santa Fe fruit car (my longest item of stock) is perilously close to the fascia framing. Whilst I reckon I can probably get away with it long term, perhaps it would be wise before I go any further to Nick a bit off; just in case.

BCA4C83B-E463-4440-9436-F6448E393A20.jpeg

So, a start is made.

Hopefully, I can report of further progress in due course.

Thanks for looking.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Primed.

F0D11DBF-CCE7-41CC-B6C6-9BA20B4409FF.jpeg 5DAFEFE8-8015-4FD3-8627-32D37D51A3D4.jpeg 04595BF9-06EE-4002-876B-7A19FE908156.jpeg

Undercoated with a mix of Humbrol Matt enamels, no’s. 77 and 33.

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Apologies for the poor light quality in my pictures of late, but I suspect I’ve ‘knocked something off’ whilst struggling to secure the right angle for a shot. If anyone knows anything about iPad cameras, would they kindly drop me a line as to how I can put back on what I’ve clumsily knocked off.

Many thanks.

Jonte

Edit: to replace final photo with one taken in natural light which I hope is better for you. Jonte.
 
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jonte

Western Thunderer
Good morning fellow Westerners.

Just a brief update on my painting of ‘the shed’ which has received a thin wash and stipple of Humbrol enamel 34 (Matt white) as a base coat:

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I’m rather pleased with the texture of those (sanded down) matchstick ‘planks’, despite the relief being way OTT.

I’m going to put it aside for a spell while I continue with relaying the track which will take up most of what’s left of this modelling window, but I hope to have it painted and weathered by the end of the summer when I’ll post up the results.

With regard to track, I’m aware that I’ve yet to post up or mention a track plan. In essence, with something this small, a single shot of the track when laid in the next couple days or so will serve the purpose. To that end, I had intended to replicate what stood before (run-round loop plus single siding) minus the tramway crossing. That was until earlier this morning while searching for a suitable buffer stop for the siding. With early morning head on, I mistook for ‘Cambrian’ what was actually ‘Caledonian’ on the Lanarkshire models website, and straight away I was struck by the stunted buffer with wooden beam which would have been ideal for this rather ‘stunted’ siding - a true GWR example making the siding look ridiculously short. But surely, despite this being a mere train-set, shouldn’t the old adage of being able to detect location without a train in site be a given? I agonised for a moment as yet another hurdle presented itself in what is supposed to be a rather laid-back, relatively swift project. Then it occurred to me that a feature of Tanat, including Bl**dyhell Junction on which this is based, was that the single siding formed part of the loop, protected by a single one-switch catchy/trippy thing that I was intending to lay anyway. Okay, that third point I’d bought would become redundant, but at least it would have more of a flavour of the area portrayed and the siding would be proportionally longer - and thereby more realistic? - than a lame example of the prototype foreshortened by the presence of the extra point. I think the reduced footprint will help the scene blend proportionally with the surrounding countryside scene as a whole.

Indeed, I might even be able to use those redundant point motors again - or at least, having to relocate just one. We’ll see.

Thanks for looking.

Jonte
 

Sully

Member
I wouldn't worry about the relief being OTT.....it catches your eye in the same way as military modelers tend to over emphasise shading.

In that way, when viewed from a distance it looks 'right'....if you know what I mean.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I wouldn't worry about the relief being OTT.....it catches your eye in the same way as military modelers tend to over emphasise shading.

In that way, when viewed from a distance it looks 'right'....if you know what I mean.

I do indeed, Sully. Good point.

Many thanks for your reassurance and I’ll keep an eye out for your threads :)

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I agree, the finish looks great - nice representation of weathered wood!

Looking forward to more progress

Matt

Kind of you to say, Matt, thank you.

To be honest, this was an attempt at a thin sort of whitewash although I wasn’t sure why I did it :rolleyes: In the end, the two washed coats ended up mixing with each other to form the unintentional grey you see in the photos. Whilst I agree that it’s a fair match for weathered wood, I also noticed that the primer was showing through again in places. So this morning, I took remedial action by repainting the wooden walls (apart from the from the upper three quarters of the front wall) with an undiluted mix of the black and dark grey, straight from the tins. The framing remains yucky grey like most of the front wall which I think will make a good base for the flaking ‘dark stone’ paint - or my washed out version of it ;)

I’m after a worn look to the wooden panels - especially the side(s) facing the prevailing winds and weather - with the presence of flaking paint on the framing here and there like I say. The worn look will mainly consist of dry brushing the light stone colour on, which I think will really work well with the undulations on the surface of the matchsticks - incidentally, I reckon the match sticks would work a treat on coal staithes with a bitumen type finish.

I hope you’ll keep visiting, Matt, although there may be a short hiatus as I’m currently busy with track laying: I’ve even started to fit wire in tube point control operated by slide switches slotted into holes formed in the extended track bed. Watch this space :)

Jonte
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
I sure will Jonte, I'm enjoying your progress!

Talking of tracklaying, I need to get my @£& in gear and get mine sorted!

Matt
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
The 'shed' - 'station building'.... :confused: , is starting to look good Jonte,and i also the variation you have in your base coat for your peeling paint too.

Andwhilst on the subject of peeling paint,i would consider this guy the 'master' when it comes to weathered wood and such,and i`m sure you`ve heard of him too with your US modeling background!.

But for those who don`t,his name is Chuck Doan,https://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/
And whilst he build`s diorama`s in the larger scales;1/35 etc, it`s worth a look because some of the stuff will knock your socks off!

Anyhow,there`s a nice little discription of a peeling paint test within the site above that may help you,plus it`s in 1/4 scale to.
Photo: Peeling paint test in 1/4" scale | Odds and Ends album | Chuck Doan

Brian.
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
One of many objets d'art from our West Texas travels is a weathered wood picture frame that now houses a mirror in our entry foyer.

IMG_0686.JPG

I often wonder how many old Texas barns have been pulled down to make these frames, but there are still plenty left.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I’ll refrain from using the word ‘progress’ fellow Westerners, but let’s just say that matters continue all things track.

Here’s what it looks like after several visits to the modelling room during the course of the day:

12B663E3-A2E1-4305-B488-EEA56091314A.jpeg DBD999D5-F336-481A-92A2-BC4296C77814.jpeg C1383BFA-9918-4EA8-B42A-6362B7329F33.jpeg

In fact the day commenced on the dinner table under the table lamp and with the assistance of my old Gaugemaster controller (I use it to run-in locos on a circle of track these days or, as in this case, as a current meter). I wanted to test electrical continuity in the new Peco B/H points I’m using as I’ll be honest: I’ve no idea what the term ‘Unifrog’ means. All I want is to operate it along the lines of the electro frog principle i e an isolated frog with polarity switched via a SPDT switch, already in place and used to operate my home made jobbies that they will replace. Surprisingly, everything worked as I expected, however, I wasn’t fussed to find that the frog rails on the other side of the insulated gap were also live, so I decided to cut the bonded wires beneath the rails at that point. I will provide separate feeds to both as per the wiring on my home made points; whether I’ve created work for myself to achieve the same aim I’m not quite sure, but it makes me a little more comfortable.

And the rest of the day has been spent friction fitting three slide switches and a couple of their accompanying angle cranks (GEM recovered from the ‘used’ bits n bobs box). Funnily enough, I bought the switches on a whim from a recent show without a purpose in mind. They were part of a consignment of electrics on a stall marked ‘Sale’ that caught my eye as I was leaving. Their purpose is to operate the two points and a home made catch point after I decided to give it a go before resigning myself to finger flicking in true train-set fashion. Okay, they’re a little overt, but again, it’s like the sets of old; and if they don’t work, I’ll just finger flick them;) I’ve yet to fit the crank for the catch point but I might do so after I’ve laid the nearside of the loop i e the main line, just to make sure my markings are as accurate as possible as the tube and wire will have to pass under the main line (I’ve some very fine brass tube in the box which will be easier to secrete in the ballast and leave sufficient margin to prevent shorting, although I’ll wrap some insulation tape round it just to make sure). The slide switches aren’t too imposing I think, and will be easy to access while operating. I’m afraid the plethora of block mounts under the board prevent ease of access for underboard fitting, so surface mounted they are.

And that’s it for now. I need to pick up some purpose made rail joiners next as the traditional code 75 ones are too long and too tight. I’m just hoping the BH ones aren’t as tight.

Jonte

PS Forgot to mention that I’ve decided to opt for Kadee couplings as I already have two Kadee under-track magnets fitted either side of the traverser in the fiddle yard. Again, due to limited under board access, I’m going to try Neodymium magnets or whatever they’re called. Sent for a packet of 25 yesterday and they arrived in today’s post! They’re 3mm diameter x 10 mm length which will be fitted on opposite sides of a sleeper at the appropriate positions and against opposing rails so that one coupling is pulled one way, the other, well, the other. Not my idea’ read about it elsewhere.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
The 'shed' - 'station building'.... :confused: , is starting to look good Jonte,and i also the variation you have in your base coat for your peeling paint too.

Andwhilst on the subject of peeling paint,i would consider this guy the 'master' when it comes to weathered wood and such,and i`m sure you`ve heard of him too with your US modeling background!.

But for those who don`t,his name is Chuck Doan,https://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/
And whilst he build`s diorama`s in the larger scales;1/35 etc, it`s worth a look because some of the stuff will knock your socks off!

Anyhow,there`s a nice little discription of a peeling paint test within the site above that may help you,plus it`s in 1/4 scale to.
Photo: Peeling paint test in 1/4" scale | Odds and Ends album | Chuck Doan

Brian.

Hi Brian and thank you for the compliment.

I’m a great admirer of Chuck’s; he definitely goes the extra mile. What a talent!

Thanks for sharing, Brian, and for dropping by.

Regards,

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
One of many objets d'art from our West Texas travels is a weathered wood picture frame that now houses a mirror in our entry foyer.

View attachment 107066

I often wonder how many old Texas barns have been pulled down to make these frames, but there are still plenty left.

A fabulous piece, Paul. It almost tells a story :)

Several years ago, we visited the wreck of an old wooden ship that had sunk in the Lune estuary during a violent storm with all hands on board; including the Captain’s daughter who was due to be married. It transpired that the captain and owner of the vessel was the great, great.......grandfather of my friend’s wife.

As a token, he removed part of the frame that was exposed at a very low tide plus the remainder of the rudder and some of its iron fixings. The frame became a candle holder and centre piece on his dining room table while the rudder served as a garden ornament.

Real talking points and I suppose poignant in some way; but I remain uneasy deep down about the disturbance of what tantamounts to a grave, despite the distant family connection.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
It’s an eternally indebted amphibian ;)

Unifrog?

Interesting - and skilful - work, Jonte. Nice to see, and good to read.

Cheers

Jan

Hi Jan, and good to hear :)

Many thanks for the link. All clever stuff and yet more ‘matters tecknicul’ that baffle my bonce.

To be fair, the boffins have obviously designed these with the have-a-go-Harrys like me in mind, and for that they should be commended. I’ve only undone all their good work through ignorance. This is to say nothing of the appearance of the new track which is way above anything I could assemble - and work:oops: They’re a tad pricey but just compare with the prices to have one made; and I’m not knocking the professionals as I can see what’s involved.

You kindly use the words ‘skilful work’, Jan; I just hope they do ;)

Thanks for popping in.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
My dearest fellow Westerners; not a lot to report since my last as have spent a couple of weeks away from the layout. Ultimately, momentum suffered, so with a free moment or two to spare today thought I’d try and do something - anything - by way of a kick start.

So it was back to the trackwork.

For some unearthly reason, I find it easier to lay the home-made stuff than the proprietary; as good as it looks, boy is it fiddly to cut, fit fish plates and shape (I find the insertion of a blunt Stanley blade in the fish plate slot eases fitting, although they then become a little loose which is a bit of a bind when trying to join sections of track).

Anyway, the total sum of today’s slog was to cut the rail for the inside of the loop, adjust and fit fish plates and join the whole lot up - with the assistance of blu-tak of course (I’ve decided to drill holes in the ends of the sleepers at points along the curved section of track in the loop, into which I’ll insert track pins just to hold the bends as the glue dries).

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Now I can mark and drill holes for the wires for the fishplates in the inner section of the loop, the holes for the fishplate wires on the outside of the loop having already been drilled out. I can then solder the electrical feeds onto the bases of the fish plates for electrical continuity before rejoining the sections of track ready for testing.

So there we are. Not a lot done for not a lot of train set. Rather fitting don’t you think?

Thanks for looking,

Jonte

PS will dress the catch point with some left over C&L plastic chairs. Jonte.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
You say not a lot done Jonte,but you`ll soon be running trains now the circuit is complete and perhaps even doing some switching....Ooop`s sorry....shunting....!!

Brian.
 
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