Scattergun Adam's Italian Diversions: On manoeuvres

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by AJC, 12 May 2016.

  1. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    Glad you like it. :)

    Weathering is cathartic, I find, and having been away for most of the week and having damaged my right thumb playing cricket (which prevents me playing any more for a bit), this goes some was towards explaining why the modelling shelf has three weathered Italians on it rather than anything that requires a lot of manual dexterity. Oh, and this:

    Back door.jpg

    Nicely glossy.

    Adam
     
    Lyndhurstman likes this.
  2. ullypug

    ullypug Active Member

    Sorry to hear about the thumb.
    Disappointed to see the top half of the door isn't cream.
    You could have at least put in a couple of gold lines at the split...
     
  3. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    I did consider LMS period I style, briefly. Maybe for the front door? ;)

    At least I caught the ball in the process and the thumb is now back to its normal size. Skipper made me bowl afterwards until the swelling got too bad to grip the thing which struck me as a bit cruel, but we were slightly short on numbers and... Village cricket, eh?

    Adam
     
    Last edited: 8 July 2019
  4. steve50

    steve50 Member

    Good to hear your thumb's improving, your weathering looks great Adam, what paint's do you use for the fading and are they airbrushed?
    Steve.
     
    AJC likes this.
  5. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    Hi Steve,

    All done with washes and brushes - like watercolours, basically. You apply a bit of pigment (Humbrols, in my case) and let it down with thinners. If you use too much pain, apply more thinners with a clean, soft brush. The idea is to sort of float the colour on. First the wagon was sealed with a pass of matt lacquer (the matt surface provides a bit of keying). The fade was done with a first pass of a lightish grey, so as to soften the colour. This was sealed (more matt lacquer) and then a second fade with matt white. It isn't as faded as the real thing, but that has gone so much that to achieve that effect you'd need to start with a light colour and then darken the corners.

    Adam
     
    allegheny1600 likes this.
  6. steve50

    steve50 Member

    Thanks Adam, I'll find something and have a practice at that. I've tried using oil colours in the past but always like to hear different techniques.
    Steve.
     
    AJC likes this.
  7. 40126

    40126 Western Thunderer

    Great thread Adam. Spent parts of today, inbetween sunbathing in the beautiful Spanish sun, reading from the begining. The weathering & graffiti is superb.

    Steve :cool:
     
    AJC likes this.
  8. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    Thanks Steve. I'm pleased with both. The other day I stumbled on another couple of boxes from the collection containing a Rivarossi D.245 shunter (these come in a variety of different series: some rod drive, others, like this one, with all the business hidden between the frames). This is a modern, Hornby-produced item and is, aesthetically, as good as one might hope, but mechanically was a bit of a let down. The gearing gives a top speed round about 90mph and all-wheel drive is transmitted by toothed belt which is effective but which has acquired a bit of a set causing slight lumpiness at low speeds.

    D_245_002.jpg

    That said, it's quite nicely engineered, the wheels aren't too bad and it's more than adequately powered; it's just geared for high speed running which for a machine with a top speed (apparently) of 64km/h (40mph) won't really do. And so prompted by a cheque for a magazine article I commissioned a replacement from the now - very sadly - defunct Hollywood Foundry. Compare and contrast:

    D_245_001.jpg

    This is an excellent bit of kit which runs smoothly and, more importantly, slowly. I've run it in on the circuit of set track that passes for a test facility (can't do that in EM!) and I'm currently grappling with how to fit it to the body. Happily the body is plastic so that's relatively straightforward, and a few bits of 60 thou' welded inside the frames serve to locate it. A proper fixing will require a little thought and a bit of scrap etch, I think:

    D_245_003.jpg

    No cutting required and the upper works still fit so no trimming needed there either:

    D_245_004.jpg

    Compared to the real thing, the handrails appear a bit overfed so these will be replaced - the various other handrails are supplied to fit by the purchaser (etched metal, pre-painted) which will make weathering much easier - and yes, that number plate is etched. In case you're wondering, the buffers are only on the one end because you also get alternate buffer beams (without a huge cut out for Euro-style couplings - thoughtfully these also have all the markings applied) so I could check ride height. Fairly simple work so far...

    Adam
     
    Last edited: 12 July 2019