Another David Andrews Stanier 2-6-4T

Hello Peter,
I think it was 6-020, tall chimney B as the top flare and rim appears to be sharper, but I'm not certain. If you hang fire a day or so I will try to find the receipt or search my e-mails etc. As you can see the quality of the casting is much better than those shown on LG's on-line catalogue, but of course they are well blown up. All I have done to it is polish it.

Apologies for the multiple postings of the same pictures. I must have poked the full size button to much. Doh!

Cheers,
John.
 
Good Morning.

Peter,

Forget the previous LG code, my guess was wrong. I have just checked my Paypal account records and the code I ordered is 6-019, tall chimney A, Jubilees 5695- 5739. The skrewker arrived from OLFA and I got to work with it immediately and the 2 halves are now rejoined and ready for fitting, but not until I have machined 2 new scoop domes. I had to lose 11 thou off the width so thanks for your excellent tip. I don't like the flat etched beading either and am going to use D section. What size did you use was it 1mm?

Cheers,

John
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi John,
Thanks for getting back on the chimney.

Sorry, I don't recall the size of the half round wire used on the 4P. The model is at my brother's house where my work bench is so I can't check. I think I used what I had available at the time, but with hindsight, it could have been a little thinner. On the the 3P I used nu gold jewellery wire sourced from Ebay. Its not expensive and come in various widths and diameter of curve. It's easier to use than normal half round brass but come cooled so it need straightening, but that's easily done. You can see the difference below.

Cheers,
Peter

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Another David Andrews Stanier 2-6-4T
Good Morning.
I'm afraid I've fallen behind a bit with postings but thanks to this lock-down malarkie the 2-6-4T has advanced and the body is almost complete.
Many thanks to PAD and dibateg for the pictures an info on the beading size. I obtained two sizes of nu-gold 'D' section from Metal Clayes and chose the larger 1.05 x 0.51mm. Some photos of this to follow in another post but here's a few to catch up. Cutting the cab back bulkhead seemed somewhat daunting but following PAD's tips and the purchase of a skrawker the job turned out to be quite easy and the reults are evident in the photos.

Peter, you were right about the usefulness of the skawker. I have used it twice since. Much better than fiddling with a pierceing saw and breakig blades!:)IMG_2108.JPG
IMG_2109.JPG
This one is just to show the mod to the front cab section of the tanks.IMG_2107.JPG
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi John,
Nice work. I don't know why you and me had to do that, as both Dibateg and Scanlon got away without narrowing the cab rear plate on their builds. Curious!
Cheers,
Peter
 

Dave28

New Member
I do like the 2-6-4 tanks. Where common on LT&SR. I used to travel weekdays from Tilbury town to Fenchurch street. Nice to see a few have survived. I must say the quality of work you've both shown is excellent and puts mine to shame. The riveting must have taken ages. Thank you for the pictures and work procedure.
 
Hello Peter.
When I discovered I had the same problem I retraced my steps, as no doubt you did, and everything was spot on. The thought had crossed my mind that we had both worked the build front to back and is this where the answer lies. However, the problem is in the width so that cannot be. We will probably never know so its just down to the gremlins!! The body is nearing completion so I'll put some more pics on in the next few days.

Cheers. John.

Hello Dave.

Thanks for your kind comments. I have to say PAD's is the best by far and I have to hand credit to him as I followed his thread throughout. I have been amazed by the high standard of work and knowwledge to be found on Western Thunder and the fact that someone always seems to have the answer to a problem if you ask. Of the 2-6-4T's, of course the 3 cyl 2500 at the NRM is the sole Stanier survivor and a read somewhere that the museum had earmarked it for overhall. I have not heard anything since. Anyone on here with any knowledge?:)

Cheere. John
 
Another David Andrews Stanier 2-6-4T
DSC00307 (2).JPG DSC00308 (2).JPG DSC00310 (2).JPG DSC00311 (3).JPG DSC00313 (2).JPG DSC00316 (2).JPG View attachment 124867 View attachment 124868 View attachment 124870 Apologies for getting behind on postings but the fact is, I detest computers, (and mobile radio telephone handsets) so I have to get my head round poking at a keyboard. I am going to try my hand at putting text with the photos so if this ends up in a complete pigs bum........................................

Yep, and a pigs bum it was. The main object was to show the beading after following the advice of others appearing in this thread. The 'D' dection was obtained from Metal Clays via Ebay in a couple of sizes. I decided to use the 1.05mm x 0.5mm and I am happy with the result. Being slightly narrower than the half etch for the flat beading supplied on the etch, a little filing off at the tops was required.

The wonky white metal scoop domes were consigned to the gash and new brass ones turned up on the trusty Peatol.

The penultimate photo shows a compromise I have had to make as the result of using the larger Silvertown cylinder lubricator . The problem was there was insufficient room between the lubricator and the boiler for the train pipe. I did consider taking the lubricator off and filing it back but I decided on the compromise and joggled the train pipe instead. The drain pipes from the Ejector body had to be reduced to two instead of three but hey ho, lifes too short.

I will soon be moving back to the frames and valve gear etc and the motor I have earmarked is a JH from MSC and its a bit of a lump. Suggestions for an alternative please.

The loco body is almost finished so I will post more photos when I recover from the current state of trauma from doing these!!
 
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