oldravendale
Western Thunderer
We know who designed the kit, and it is not a thing of beauty! There are considerable errors - see the tender build. However, it's the only one for a Brighton K and I'm not sufficiently clever or experienced to build one from scratch. However, it is true to say that, although the kit is cheap it will not work out that way by the time all the additional parts are taken in to account. There is a significant difference between "cheap" (and close to unbuildable), which this kit is and "inexpensive" (but totally buildable and well designed) which is where I'd put Connoiseur, for example.
As for the chassis jig, this is the first loco I've built using it which has not run straight from the build. I'm pretty sure that there's something associated with the errant hornblock, couple with my over confidence based on previous experience which caused the problem. I'll be using it for future builds, but properly and with greater care. Chassis are my bete noir and the chassis jig has given me confidence that they'll build properly and work, which they usually do.
The alternative camp suggests a much less expensive option which uses long ground steel rods and tapered jig axles, but my builds have usually been out of square using this technique - my inadequacy, no doubt. If there is a wish to resurrect a discussion about chassis jigs I'm happy to host it here as part of the side issue of building this kit, but we've probably previously done it to death!
BTW, I noted on my previous post that I was taking the splasher tops off the splasher sides, even though the design and instruction is for the tops to remain attached to the sides and curved to fit. My intention in describing this was to ask for opinions about whether removal from the sides and proper bending of the tops before soldering in place would be the preferred construction, or whether anyone has experience of the construction method proposed for this kit which, to my mind, must give a flat top to the splasher. I forgot but now invite comments!
Brian
As for the chassis jig, this is the first loco I've built using it which has not run straight from the build. I'm pretty sure that there's something associated with the errant hornblock, couple with my over confidence based on previous experience which caused the problem. I'll be using it for future builds, but properly and with greater care. Chassis are my bete noir and the chassis jig has given me confidence that they'll build properly and work, which they usually do.
The alternative camp suggests a much less expensive option which uses long ground steel rods and tapered jig axles, but my builds have usually been out of square using this technique - my inadequacy, no doubt. If there is a wish to resurrect a discussion about chassis jigs I'm happy to host it here as part of the side issue of building this kit, but we've probably previously done it to death!
BTW, I noted on my previous post that I was taking the splasher tops off the splasher sides, even though the design and instruction is for the tops to remain attached to the sides and curved to fit. My intention in describing this was to ask for opinions about whether removal from the sides and proper bending of the tops before soldering in place would be the preferred construction, or whether anyone has experience of the construction method proposed for this kit which, to my mind, must give a flat top to the splasher. I forgot but now invite comments!
Brian
Last edited: