Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Of late, I can't seem to find a "good old Humbrol" tin of white paint that isn't like thick soup. I don't seem to be winning with painting at the moment. I'm taking it as a sign. 
Building an MMP RMB - a box of delights
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Like thick soup, that's perfect
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I used to have a huge set from 0.18 to 1.5mm. I started out in my first proper job in a civil engineering drawing office, moving on to becoming a technical illustrator - and then along came computers…
I got rid of almost all of my pens - no use for them, obviously - save a 0.25 and 0.3 which have seen occasional use when a fine white line is required. Last time I used it in anger, with proper Rotring white ink, was when I lined the LNWR set of coaches. So, I dug the pens out and tried them today. Not brilliant, and not enough density. I wouldn't risk using any other kind of paint in them, to be honest.
If the transfers don't work, you've got yourself a job! I'm sure Richard won't mind a mild delay after all this time!
I tried Humbrol in the bow pen. I wish I hadn't. When I say "thick soup", the particular batch I seem to have is so thick you can stand the mixing stick up in it. To get it to do anything at all it has to be thinned to a degree. The line wibbled and wobbled all over, and it took me several goes to drop intact enough down too avoid those bloody frames. So, I've cleaned everything up again and it can wait for the transfers.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Heather
I can wait till Telford, as you say its taken a while to get this far.
Richard
I can wait till Telford, as you say its taken a while to get this far.
Richard
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Yay! Lining!
Healey Mills
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,
That looks very neat indeed. Were the transfers difficult to add and do you have to cut the white strips to the required length?
Cheers
Lee
That looks very neat indeed. Were the transfers difficult to add and do you have to cut the white strips to the required length?
Cheers
Lee
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The transfers come from a long sheet. Effectively, the length of one line is long enough to fit a coach side. Because of the door furniture, window frames and corrosion strips I decided to apply in shorter lengths.
The HMRS transfers are Pressfix: lay in place, press down when happy, flood with water, leave for a spell and then soak the backing paper away. I trimmed as close to the line as I could where I needed the line to butt against a frame. The only downside I encountered was the gum didn't wash away as cleanly as I would like. Having left things to dry off for a day or so, I may have another go.
The HMRS transfers are Pressfix: lay in place, press down when happy, flood with water, leave for a spell and then soak the backing paper away. I trimmed as close to the line as I could where I needed the line to butt against a frame. The only downside I encountered was the gum didn't wash away as cleanly as I would like. Having left things to dry off for a day or so, I may have another go.
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
I popped by Heathers the other day and I must say this is a very nice model
John
John
mth
Western Thunderer
I also do as Heather does but I normaly do mine in one go, as I only cut close to one side the rest of the backing paper helps to keep a straight line, as long as you don't pull it too taut. Also i have found a quick wipe over with quick drying thinners will remove the excess gum.
Hope that helps
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Steve at Railtec has now got a new sheet of suitable transfers covering branding and running numbers for RBR and RMB coaches. That means - ta-da! - the end branding is now done.
I know the filler text is wonky. I've addressed that since taking the photo. It's just about legible, too, which means you need a strong magnifier to identify which end is which on the sheet!
Now, as Steve also include E1833 on the sheet, how would I go about removing the Methfix numbers I did a couple of weeks ago without damaging the paint surface? Any ideas?
I know the filler text is wonky. I've addressed that since taking the photo. It's just about legible, too, which means you need a strong magnifier to identify which end is which on the sheet!
Now, as Steve also include E1833 on the sheet, how would I go about removing the Methfix numbers I did a couple of weeks ago without damaging the paint surface? Any ideas?
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Right, removing Methfix transfers: plenty of clean water, applied by cotton bud, and left to soak for a couple of minutes. If you're lucky, you can begin to tease the transfer edges with a finger nail. In the end, I found the edge of a brand new No15 scalpel blade carefully teased under the edges let me lift them away.
Thanks to Cliff Williams for the tip, after I asked on the Facebooks.
Thanks to Cliff Williams for the tip, after I asked on the Facebooks.
Simon Glidewell
Western Thunderer
Outstanding work as usual Heather! Lovely!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Cheers Simon. This build is edging closer to completion.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Today, after having left the bodywork curing up in the paint shop after some varnish, it was time to tackle the glazing.
I know, I know. It came as a shock to me as well. Nevertheless, I girded myself and set to.
Mr P provides an etched marking out/cutting out template for all the windows. You can run a sharp blade round the templates with success, but I found it easier to use a sharp needle in a pin vice to scratch the shape into the glazing material, then cut out with scalpel and/or scissors.
The supplied material is very clear. I can see why it was chosen over other types of clear material. It does like fingerprints, though, and I gave in trying to avoid leaving my mark! Once I'm happy with things I will use a cotton bud and lighter fluid to gently wipe things down.
Fingerprints ahoy! The slightly wavy panes are because the inner shell hasn't been properly aligned - my error, and something I am working on. Once the inner shell is fitted properly, everything smooths out nicely.
This is a door droplight frame. The holes are meant to fit over the hinge pegs inside the body to aid alignment. As muggins here had carefully dressed the pegs all back neatly, I've had to resort to careful alignment by eye, followed by a drop or two of adhesive. The glazing template cuts the material precisely to fit into to aperture. I wasn't too keen on this, as there's not a lot to hold it in place. For the other doors I've cut the glazing just a smidge over size and applied fixative that way. This example is about to be redone that way, as I've managed to poke a finger through the window and push it out…
The window vents are still to do. Perhaps Sunday, when I'm feeling relaxed!
I know, I know. It came as a shock to me as well. Nevertheless, I girded myself and set to.
Mr P provides an etched marking out/cutting out template for all the windows. You can run a sharp blade round the templates with success, but I found it easier to use a sharp needle in a pin vice to scratch the shape into the glazing material, then cut out with scalpel and/or scissors.
The supplied material is very clear. I can see why it was chosen over other types of clear material. It does like fingerprints, though, and I gave in trying to avoid leaving my mark! Once I'm happy with things I will use a cotton bud and lighter fluid to gently wipe things down.
Fingerprints ahoy! The slightly wavy panes are because the inner shell hasn't been properly aligned - my error, and something I am working on. Once the inner shell is fitted properly, everything smooths out nicely.
This is a door droplight frame. The holes are meant to fit over the hinge pegs inside the body to aid alignment. As muggins here had carefully dressed the pegs all back neatly, I've had to resort to careful alignment by eye, followed by a drop or two of adhesive. The glazing template cuts the material precisely to fit into to aperture. I wasn't too keen on this, as there's not a lot to hold it in place. For the other doors I've cut the glazing just a smidge over size and applied fixative that way. This example is about to be redone that way, as I've managed to poke a finger through the window and push it out…
The window vents are still to do. Perhaps Sunday, when I'm feeling relaxed!
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather, Reading your earlier posts re old pens; I too was one of those technical illustrator types! I find it mildly amusing to observe how much the so called "Specially designed" lining pens cost. They are no more or less than the old Standograph or Uno pens that were as cheap as chips and we used to chuck away without blinking - all those years ago! Yes, I am bitter and twisted aren't I?
Perhaps I am fortunate in that I have a local Art supplier nearby in Cambridge who still carries a stock of Isograph pens, though I'm not sure for how much longer? Although they are ordinary Rotring affairs, their plastic bodies are quite easily modified to suit. Although I admit that I haven't lined any models for yonks, I still use them for antique clock dial renovation jobs that a friend passes to me from time to time. Bow pens might have been the traditional tool, but for some reason I've never felt at ease with the confounded things!
Pete.
Perhaps I am fortunate in that I have a local Art supplier nearby in Cambridge who still carries a stock of Isograph pens, though I'm not sure for how much longer? Although they are ordinary Rotring affairs, their plastic bodies are quite easily modified to suit. Although I admit that I haven't lined any models for yonks, I still use them for antique clock dial renovation jobs that a friend passes to me from time to time. Bow pens might have been the traditional tool, but for some reason I've never felt at ease with the confounded things!
Pete.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Back in "the good old days" having a full set of technical pens was essential for my day job. Being a dab hand with Letraset and Letraline work, plus pasting up bromide galleys typeset on the CRTronic typesetter… I don't miss those days at all. Being able to do it all on a screen, in full colour, and outputting - in my time - colour sep positives was amazing. Now it's direct to print stuff. I'm so out of touch.
So, I turned my hand to something people find useful.
I've had a pretty productive weekend. With the glazing done, all bar those pesky ventilators, there seemed little reason not to press on with fitting the main interior parts.
It took a while for me to find the storage boxes with the seats, partitions and catering area bits. They'd been made up a long time ago, and safely stored while the rest of the thing lurked at the back of the bench. Now things are batting along quickly enough.
How to fix the various bits and bobs was an interesting session. Ordinarily, I would use cyano, with an impact adhesive coming second. In fact, the latter might have been a good choice. As there is a certain amount of flexing that the body will encounter as I fight the roof into place, I didn't want a rigid or brittle fixative. Although many of the components are located with slots and pegs, the accuracy of the original design work has had to slip a little by the way.
I settled on Micro Kristal Klear. This, as you know, is a form of PVA used by aero modellers and the like for filling small windows and attaching cockpit transparencies. Once dried, it remains flexible, so I thought it might serve a useful role here.
Each seat unit has a main slot where the back board fits into the floor. To help things slide home I used the whizzydisc to chamfer the sides. A dribble of Klear along the slot, and a couple of blobs where the seat sides met the coach sides, and hopefully things will stay put indefinitely.
Having installed all bar one of the seating bays, the bar area and the vestibule partitions, I am now letting things set for the night. If it looks okay in the cold light of Monday I shall fit the final part, runs seams of Klear up various dividers, and retouch the paintwork again, before trying the tables for size.
The finishing post is within sight! I think I need a lie down.
So, I turned my hand to something people find useful.
I've had a pretty productive weekend. With the glazing done, all bar those pesky ventilators, there seemed little reason not to press on with fitting the main interior parts.
It took a while for me to find the storage boxes with the seats, partitions and catering area bits. They'd been made up a long time ago, and safely stored while the rest of the thing lurked at the back of the bench. Now things are batting along quickly enough.
How to fix the various bits and bobs was an interesting session. Ordinarily, I would use cyano, with an impact adhesive coming second. In fact, the latter might have been a good choice. As there is a certain amount of flexing that the body will encounter as I fight the roof into place, I didn't want a rigid or brittle fixative. Although many of the components are located with slots and pegs, the accuracy of the original design work has had to slip a little by the way.
I settled on Micro Kristal Klear. This, as you know, is a form of PVA used by aero modellers and the like for filling small windows and attaching cockpit transparencies. Once dried, it remains flexible, so I thought it might serve a useful role here.
Each seat unit has a main slot where the back board fits into the floor. To help things slide home I used the whizzydisc to chamfer the sides. A dribble of Klear along the slot, and a couple of blobs where the seat sides met the coach sides, and hopefully things will stay put indefinitely.
Having installed all bar one of the seating bays, the bar area and the vestibule partitions, I am now letting things set for the night. If it looks okay in the cold light of Monday I shall fit the final part, runs seams of Klear up various dividers, and retouch the paintwork again, before trying the tables for size.
The finishing post is within sight! I think I need a lie down.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I think I'll just leave these here while I go and lie down again.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
It's pretty obvious this isn't a range of kits that can be built quickly enough to make it a commercial prospect for a professional builder. Knowing how the kits go together, obviously a second one would be somewhat easier, now I am aware of likely pitfalls. I would certainly approach a build in a different way.
That said, I rather think there won't be another one.
That said, I rather think there won't be another one.
Healey Mills
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,
I've just caught up on your build thread here. Wow, the level of detail is stunning and the end result is just superb. I do hope that you get another one of these to build but the owner of this must be pleased as punch with that you have achieved here.
Cheers
Lee
I've just caught up on your build thread here. Wow, the level of detail is stunning and the end result is just superb. I do hope that you get another one of these to build but the owner of this must be pleased as punch with that you have achieved here.
Cheers
Lee