Building an MMP RMB - a box of delights

alcazar

Guest
I see that Jeff - but the normal family on a day out, or on a Santa Special [nice seasonal touch there!], would not know that the dastardly operators of The Little Pillock Light Railway failed to let Heather photograph their RMB are they?


No, and I see your point, but we are ALL customers and it's the customers who pay their bills.

The family on a day outing is usually a one-off, the photographer looking for details may be back again and again. He may also donate..as I did.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Before I get stuck into things properly, the Mid Hants has also been very helpful. I need to organise my diary and get out there now.

Right, the matter in hand. What's In The Box.

001 Instructions.jpg

001 Instructions-2.jpg

Very comprehensive instructions, for a start. Richard presented me with about half a ream of A4 paper when I collected the box from him. While the text parts are what could be called "closely typed", as long as you are methodical in approaching things they make sense. The exploded views can be a little congested, but with so many parts in the kit this is probably unavoidable.

I have been through the instructions, made notes, crossed through sections that don't apply, and added reminders to myself where necessary.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The etched metal parts.

002 Body shell and roof.jpg

The brass etched bodyshell and roof arrive preformed - which is a huge help. Can you imagine trying to form the complex curves from flat? I haven't unwrapped these, since I don't actually need to touch them until quite a way into the construction sequence. All etched and cast parts are bagged or wrapped. There's nothing loose in the box, not even supplied wire.

002 ends.jpg

This brass etch is interior and exterior ends, and main gangway components.

002 interior.jpg

This is the brass etch interior shell, dividers, doors and counter area for the RMB.

002 gangway, end and body detail.jpg

I know. That's what I thought when I saw this! Etched nickel silver detail parts for the body and underframe. Some of these parts are designed to be left "naked" and glued in place at the end of the construction. You can see right away there are data plates, gangway rubbing plates, end steps, and sliding window ventilators, which can potentially be posed as open. Among - many - other parts that I may not recognise until I get to them in the instructions! (There's a BR tail lamp in there. Can you spot it?)

002 seating.jpg

The seating is preformed from brass etch. That's one laborious job I don't have to do!

002 seating-2.jpg

A seat closeup. You can see how many folds are involved in this single piece of etched brass. You can also see the half-etched relief moquette pattern, which will buff up lovely with some dry brushing.

002 seating-3.jpg

We're not done with the seats - cast arm rests. The brass pins are for something that will come clear at a later date, I hope. ;)

002 interior detail.jpg

This nickel silver etch is the interior detail for seating bays. There are six of these sheets in this kit, to give tables, luggage racks, underseat heaters, light fittings and window blinds (open). Again, many of these parts are intended to fitted "naked" near the end of construction to replicate the aluminium castings and fittings on the real thing.

002 window frames.jpg

The window frames, etched nickel silver.

002 flexible material.jpg

A sheet of flexible material is provided so the gangways can be modelled working, just like the real thing. No, really. There is a cutting template provided on one of the etches to make the gangway rain cover, too.

002 rmb roof castings.jpg

Castings. As I mentioned earlier, all the loose parts are bagged up, generally in sets where there are multiple copies or where items are specific to a model. This lot is the RMB roof detailing. I've written on the bags to remind me what's in where.

002 roof and end castings.jpg

A bag of bags of castings. These represent the standard BR roof and end detail castings. I hope you can see how clean these castings are. There is no hint of a mould line, and precious little flash. Perhaps a quick pass with a file to tidy up a moulding gate pip, but I will be willing to bet most of these parts will fit snugly in their location holes without fuss.

That's the topsides. Next, the undersides.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The underframe is the first thing that gets built, if you don't count the bogies. As I'm not using the supplied BR1 bogies for this build, we don't count them (though I did photograph them for you to see).

003 underframe.jpg

First, the brass etch main frames. As you can see, there's plenty of careful soldering to do with all the trusses and so on. There are some components intended for brake coaches (in fact there are some components which the instructions explicitly mention to ignore depending on which type of coach you've got).

003 underframe detail.jpg

Nickel silver etch for battery boxes and other electrical gubbins. Many detail parts are formed of several laminations.

003 various underframe.jpg

Some more brass etched underframe parts, and a set of parts for bogies. I meant to keep different assembly areas separate in these shots, but I think I was confused because we had a heating engineer arrive in the middle of the shoot to fix our errant central heating. Anyway, the top etch includes the regulator cradle, and some brake parts, among others.

003 underframe detail-2.jpg

This brass etch includes parts relevant to the RMB underframe. On the right, you can see templates designed to help cut glazing to shape, as well as the gangway top cover.

003 brake and underframe castings.jpg

A bag of castings for the underframe. Vac braking system, dynamo, regulator, and a small bag of buffer beam pipework components. Mr Parkin tells me the direct admission valve pipe casting is strong enough to be tied into a knot without breaking. It will have to be formed into various curves to fit in place, so time will tell whether I manage to break it (if anyone can, I can :oops:).

003 drawbar castings.jpg

Finally, buffers and drawgear. Two different kinds of buffer are provided - depending on whether the buckeye is in use or not. You'll just make out the collars and hanging brackets, which actually function like the real McCoy.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
As this is not a standard build, and air braking and electrical heating equipment is required, Richard has sent me a baggie of JLTRT components for me to fit - once we work out where they go!

005 airbrake parts.jpg

005 various.jpg

This bag contained springs, nuts, bolts, pins, chain and various other bits to complete the model. I've not found the glazing. I'll get in touch with David and see if he doesn't mind sending me a sheet.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Finally, running gear.

010 bogies etch.jpg

You've already seen the inner parts etch for the BR1 bogies. Here's the brass etch for the outer frames, bolsters and brake rigging.

010 bogie castings.jpg

A comprehensive set of bags of castings for the bogies, including a dynamo pulley.

010 JLTRT CW bogie.jpg

Richard has elected to run this coach on Commonwealth bogies. He's already constructed the bulk of them, from JLTRT kits. These need completing, but it's nice to see an almost working suspension system and brake shoes!

Obviously, some modification may be required to the bogie pivot area on the underframe, but I'll cover that when we get to it.

Next, I suppose, I'll start building the coach. :thumbs:
 
S

SteveO

Guest
Holy mother of God...

The one thing that springs to mind immediately is the price of these kits is a total bargain! How much does that lot weigh?
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
A final note before I begin the underframe.

Back in Post #54 I outlined the work I would be doing. Having had a think, and having compared the kit couplers to the Kadees I was preparing to fit, Richard and I have agreed to go with the kit ones. The main reason is more to do with the effort involved in fitting the Kadee drag box, which may cause issues with other parts of the build. The MMP couplings, after all, are designed to fit the kit.

I did a quick test to see if the kit coupler would mate with a Kadee, and I'm happy to say it does. It might need a bit of a poke to connect properly, as there are no moving parts to the knuckle itself as there are on the Kadee. As the Kadees used so far on JLTRT builds have been modified with the uncoupler loop removed, uncoupling stock requires a manual lift, and this would be no different using the MMP coupler.
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Thanks for taking and showing those photos Heather, another one of those 'anticipation' kits :)
It all looks to be very nice indeed David. Very nice.
Thank goodness its only available in 7mm :oops:
Steve
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Dave

I will have a look, approximately how big would it be ?

Your kits are a bit a of bargain especially when you look at the kit cost per hour of build time, I just wish I had more time to spend building them. Retirement is at least 10 years away.


Richard
 

djparkins

Western Thunderer
Dave

I will have a look, approximately how big would it be ?

Your kits are a bit a of bargain especially when you look at the kit cost per hour of build time, I just wish I had more time to spend building them. Retirement is at least 10 years away.


Richard

Richard -

I'm pleased to say mine is rather rather less than 10 years away! Cobex around 12"x8" backed with paper. If you cannot find it I'll send another sheet to Heather when she needs it - around 3-4 years time I guess!

David
 
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