Building an Old Originals Ruston 48DS kit (Gauge 1)

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
A gentle reminder in my Christmas card from John Dale has prodded me into action ;D

John's Ruston 48DS kits have appeared on this forum a couple of times before, clicky here and here. I bought a couple of kits back at Shepshed in October this year, along with all of the components needed to finish (well, barring paint and transfers anyway). With other projects on hold for more bits, and an expectation of an easy build, I thought I would document the actual building of the kit. I'll not go into step by step details, the instructions do that far better than I can, but I thought some photos of the kit and general build may prove interesting for those tempted to stick a foot in the murky waters.

So what do you get for your ?85 + ?4 p&p? Well, its fairly safe to say that the box it all arrives in is not going to hold the finished model ;)

The Box.jpg.png

I don't see that as any problem at all, it would be impossible to get a kit nicely packaged in a box small enough! Opening up to reveal the contents shows the customary attention to detail that JD is known for

Box Contents.JPG.png

The etches are nicely wrapped in tissue paper and all of the castings, nuts, bolts etc are in clear plastic bags. The various bits of wire are taped to the lid, whilst a decent set of comprehensive instructions await reading. Unwrapping the etches reveals a sheet of 30 thou nickel with all of the chassis components, whilst 20 thou brass has been used for all of the body bits and pieces.

The Etches.JPG.png

The instructions detail the extra bits required to finish, namely a set of Slaters wheels, an 1833 motor with 40:1 gears, some delrin chain (@6" or so) plus two sprockets for the above. The only other thing worth mentioning is the use of a 10BA tap for the hornblock retaining straps.

Additional Bits.JPG.png

Before starting, its probably worth getting hold of some prototype information, there is a good little book highlighted by John and also available from our local bookseller here (scroll down to the bottom of the page and look for The Ruston Class 48DS & 88DS Locomotives by Dave Hall). Once you have picked your prototype, its time to start, which is coincidently exactly where I am now 8)

Back anon
Steve
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Just a quickie - another good place for a general mooch around for prototype pics is here. You can find quite a few images on Google as well, Flickr and others also contain some good shots of preserved and running locos...don't be surprised if you loose an evening of modelling time  :))

For the record, the two locos I have chosen to model are w/n 183062 (Wiltshire United Dairies) shown at the top of the page herein its 1937 livery and w/n 402808 from the Atlas foundary. The two of them have different buffer beams, door / window arrangements and exhaust positioning, adding a little variety to what is essentially the same two locos.

The United Dairies loco will be modelled in its later condition and paint job thanks to a couple of great photo's I've recieved (not sure who has the copyrights on them though so can't post up), the Atlas foundary loco appears in the previously mentioned book.
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Funnily enough, no problems so far :thumbs:

I did deviate from the instructions a little bit by using the hornblocks and axles to help align the chassis whilst tacking everything into place. The hornblocks were given a quick flatten on all six faces by using some 600 wet and dry paper on a sheet of glass. A small chamfer was applied to the one side of the axle hole which didn't have one, then they were popped onto the axles and dropped into the chassis. It is potentially worth noting that the rear chassis spacer doubles as a hornblock guide on the rocking axle, so attention needs to be paid to ensure that there is no excess rolling of the hornblock. I failed this point intially and ended up in the situation where the hornblocks could rotate far enough around to catch on the chassis spacer.

Tacked Chassis on back.jpg.png

A quick strip and realign sorted the problem out. I reckon it is also worth checking that all four wheels will sit flat on a sheet of glass during the tacking stage - unlikley to be a problem with the accuracy of the etches, but easy enough to do before soldering everything solid

Tacked Chassis on wheels.jpg.png

Final photo shows chassis with the axle retainers in place and the rear axle 'rocker' in position. John suggests fitting the rocker in place and checking that the chassis sits level when placed on its wheels. If not, file a bit off the bottom of the rocker. I choose to dry fit the rocker, filing the base until it just sat in contact with the axle with the chassis the right way up. It was then easy to hold the rocker in place with a block of wood whilst holding the chassis flat on a sheet of glass and tacking the rocker into position. Nothing in it really, I think at this stage you deal with things how they suit you best, the end result is identical. Anyway, the chassis has been cleaned up, I'm off to get the brake gear separated from the etch and clean it up ready for another session tomorrow.

Rocking and Rolling.JPG.png

Steve
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Scale7JB said:
Looks great...

BUT...MUST...RESIST...G1!! :headbang:

JB.
Be strong. I have just given in  8) I got a wagon to see 'what it was like' and now I have a D6300 on order and I'm looking at excuses for a mk1
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Scale7JB said:
Out of interest, are the wheel flanges, and flangeways correct dimensions ?

There are an almost bewildering array of standards summarised by Mark Wood.
In a nutshell, ScaleOne32 standards are an exact wheel flange dimension, but the flangeway itself is 0.11mm oversize, being 1.5mm as opposed to dead scale 1.39mm.

The wheels currently fitted to the Ruston are to G1MRA Fine profile, I've only turned two of the four required to ScaleOne32 dimensions so far. I'll pop a photo up in a bit to show the visual difference 0.5mm can make......

Steve
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Fwiw I have gone for the ScaleOne standard for my wheels. I really need a form tool to turn my own  :scratch:
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
I'm glad you've succumbed Guv, resistance was futile :))

In focus shot of pre and post machining on Ruston wheels. Its only 0.5mm off the width, and 0.6mm off the flange, but it has a big impact IMO (well, close up anyway - makes s*d all difference at the other end of the garden ;D )

Ruston Wheels.JPG.png
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
28ten said:
Fwiw I have gone for the ScaleOne standard for my wheels. I really need a form tool to turn my own  :scratch:
You and me both Guv, I'm borrowing Simon D's at the moment for the final tickle on my wheels. Maybe we should combine an order...

Steve
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Steve Cook said:
You and me both Guv, I'm borrowing Simon D's at the moment for the final tickle on my wheels. Maybe we should combine an order...

Steve
Good idea! Do you know any tame toolmakers?
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Nothing exciting to report today, just the assembly of the brakes and front brake rod.

Brakes.JPG.png

Need to turn down the next two wheels so I can get the brakes in the right place. Looks like its going to be a cold session in the garage tomorrow....

Steve
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
28ten said:
Good idea! Do you know any tame toolmakers?
I do, but if you have a Myford with a quick change toolpost, you can always borrow mine.
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
I chickened out of going into the garage in this weather, so had to move the pair of reprofiled wheels between axles to ensure that the brakes and sanding gear were in the correct location.

Brakes and sanding gear on_1.JPG.png

The instructions say to solder the sanding pipes directly to the chassis sides, angled out so the end fits under the brake shoes and inline with the wheels. On the reference photos I have, the sanding gear appears to be more inline with the wheels, so for the rear pipes, the 1mm rod was folded back on itself and then soldered to the chassis. I changed my mind for the front pipes, and drilled a 1mm hole in the chassis sides, threading the rod through and soldering on the inside. This was far easier than the previous method and gives a little more flexibility to fine tune so everything is parallel. The front pipes run very close to the wheels, partly because I'm following the picture I have, but also because they do not need to take into account any compensation.

Brakes and sanding gear on_2.JPG.png

Steve
 
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