7mm Bury, Thorn & Sons Ltd.

Dave

Western Thunderer
Hi Dave,

Not sure how I have missed this thread but just had a good look through all your stuff and I have to say its fantastic, very inspirational indeed. Any chance of a few more pictures of your tank fleet as at the minute I'm researching air ministry tanks built in the 40's and yours look great. Can you recommend any particular kits ?

ATB Mick

I think I know the type of tank that you mean and the nearest that I can think of is a brass kit that I saw a Telford last year. Not sure of the manufacturer though.


My cylindrical tanks, though none are the type you're after, are as follows:

2x 14ton Anchor-mounted - these are Powsides kits that are a mixture of brass (frames), whitemetal (axlebox/spring/W-iron castings) and resin (tank). The tanks are very poor and aren't actually cylindrical. They're more egg-shaped! I binned one tank and replaced it with a scratchbuild.

3x Slaters kits - no explanation required.

1x Home Office 1901 pattern tank - scratchbuilt from plasticard, plastic strip/rod, drinks can ends, drain pipe, and spare parts from kits (brake shoes, levers, axleboxes. The buffers, wheels and W-irons are Slaters items that I bought especially for the job.

The frames etc. are self-explanatory from the photos but the tank isn't quite so obvious. The basis is a piece of drain pipe - the sort under the kitchen sink, which has ends made from drinks cans araldited on the ends. The pipe's diameter can be adjusted to the required size by slitting it along its length, prizing it apart and then adding in plasticard strips to wedge it open - this slit faces the bottom of the tank when in place.

The empty can has to be filed around the bottom until the edges become so thin that the end falls in. It is then araldited onto the end of the pipe. At this stage the end is way too big but once the glue is hard the excess can be trimmed with scissors. This, of course, will be rough as a bear's arse so it must then be filed in the same way as the can end was removed, i.e. until the edge becomes so thin that the excess falls off.

The pipe is then wrapped with a sheet of pre-cut plasticard - the thinnest available, after the rivets have been embossed by means of the point from a pair of compasses.

The steel ropes are from multi-strand wire that has been twisted in a drill chuck and the ends soldered. The shackles are made using 4mm scale screw coupling parts.

The crown plates are made from plasticard, using a tool that I turned in the lathe. First a hole punch is used to make holes in a sheet of plasticard and then squares, with the holes in, are cut out of the sheet. The tool goes through the hole and the other half of the tool is pressed up against it, sandwiching the plasticard. This allows the excess to be trimmed away, leaving a perfect circle, which is then cut in half.

HOtank1.jpg


HOtank2.jpg

HOtank3.jpg

HOtank4.jpg

HOtank5.jpg

The last tank isn't an exact prototype. It's based on a Gloucester design and on frames of a similar pattern (from a Slaters RCH coal wagon) but is too short.

tank002.jpg

I'll take some photos of them on the railway if you want to see more?
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Dave,

Thanks for taking the time to put that lengthy reply together, it's really helpful to hear how you've scratch built the tanks. They look great and I would absolutely love to see more photos if possible? Do you have any plans to exhibit any where soon ? Can you recommend any particular books to study for this prototype? My future layout is to be based in the Hull area and is a goods only Dok line which would have seen tanks worked in block load from Saltend through Hull. At the time of the layout ( 1940's wary 1950's ) I'm assuming the tanks would be from a miriad of prototype with the majority being 1930's and 1940's built. I have only just started research with a couple of articles in modellers backtrack which cover well the Air Ministry tanks but that's all I have. Look forward to more pictures,

ATB Mick
 

Dave

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,

No, I have no plans to exhibit. The layout is portable but the legs that the baseboards stand on aren't suited to that sort of thing and there's no lighting rig either. Besides, exhibiting isn't my thing.

For rail tank information I can reccomend the following books that I have in my collection:

Petroleum Rail Tank Wagons of Britain by R. Tourett. Tourett Publishing (This is probably the most comprehensive work on the subject).

Oil on the Rails by Alan Coppin. HMRS.

British Railway Private Owner Tank Wagons. Compiled by R. Tourett. Cheona Publications.

British Railway Wagons - Railtanks. Complied by G. Gamble. Cheona Publications.

More pictures...

Charles Roberts D tank. (scratchbuilt)
DSC00920.jpg

The Home Office tank.
DSC00921.jpg

One of the 1940s Anchor-mounted tanks. This is the one with the replacement barrel. (Powsides kit)
DSC00923.jpg

One of the Slaters tanks, painted as a Class A tank and with no bottom valve.
DSC00924.jpg

The Gloucester-based tank. (Slaters chassis with home-made tank etc.)
DSC00925.jpg

Rectangular tar tank. (Slaters).
DSC00926.jpg
 

Dave

Western Thunderer
:cool: Ooooh!!.... nice finish on that Tar Tank...!!:thumbs: :drool::bowdown:

How? I'm guessing something like cellulose thinners over enamel..?

The tank was painted all over with a coat of very dark grey enamel and the tar is done by putting on a thick coat of satin black enamel. When the paint was dry I then daubed Plastic Weld liquid on to it. Care is needed with this because too much and the tank will melt!
 

Dave

Western Thunderer
I've not posted in this for a while now but this week I took a break from locomotive building to mess about with a few details for the railway.

bits001.jpg
Although 45 gallon (?) drums are readily available from the likes of Skytrex and Duncan models I have yet to see any 5 gallon drums, so I set about making some from scratch. The body is a length of plastic pipe, to which are stuck paper discs, as cut out by file punch. The discs aren't quite the correct diameter but are near enough and become hidden by the paint anyway.

The cap is a sliver of plastic rod and the handle is folded paper. The body is then wrapped with a cover that has been made in photoshop and printed off. It is slightly higher than the body to give the appearance of the raised lip around the rolled edge of this type of drum. In addition to the local firm Batoyle I have also produced some Castrol drums. This size is ideal for placing on locomotives alongside the more usual oil containers.

In the background is a Skytrex casting of a stack of boxes that I have painted and added labels to.

bits002.jpg
Duncan models oil drums with home-made hand pumps and Shell logos.
 

40126

Western Thunderer
Hi Dave, :thumbs:

What diameter are the plastic pipes, for both size drums please ?.

They look really good. ;)

Steve :cool:
 

Dave

Western Thunderer
Hi Steve,

The pipe dia. for the 5-gal. drum is 6.30mm as measured. The real things are 18in. high x 11in. dia. so it's near enough as makes no odds once the paper covering is glued on.

As for the large drum it's a proprietary cast resin item.
 

40126

Western Thunderer
Hi Steve,

The pipe dia. for the 5-gal. drum is 6.30mm as measured. The real things are 18in. high x 11in. dia. so it's near enough as makes no odds once the paper covering is glued on.

As for the large drum it's a proprietary cast resin item.

Thanks Dave :thumbs:

Steve :cool:
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Just stumbled across this (and no I didn't type dolly birds into Google Images.........).

That 400 gallon Humbrol Enamel drum must be a rarity! :D Great layout and lovely detailing. So much to cast your eyes on. The D tank, Markham and machinb tools are real characters.

Tony
 

Dave

Western Thunderer
Hi Dave:)

Nice work:bowdown::thumbs: - BTW how were the hand-pumps made?

ATB

CME:)

The main part is plastic rod of approx. the same diameter as the cap on the drum. The spout is a smaller dia. rod that has been bent.

The larger rod is then drilled with a small then a larger drill bit, not all the way through but just enough to locate the spout.

The fulcrum is a piece of plasticard with a notch cut in one end to locate it on the large rod. To this is glued a piece of brass wire that is bent as required to form the handle etc.

HTH :)
 
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