1/32 Coaches for the Garden

Discussion in 'Techniques' started by JimG, 7 July 2016.

  1. GrahamMc

    GrahamMc Member

    Hi Jim. Just in case you've forgotten there's a list of fastener sizes on WT. Search for 'Fastener sizes and scale equivalents'. The sizes, diameters, heights etc. are given in Gauge 1. Hope this helps. G.
  2. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer

    Many thanks for the pointers. Unfortunately, as far as I can see, the Grandt Line and Scale Hardware products can only be sourced for the US with extortionate rates of postage. But I found a UK supplier of scale hardware whose prices are quite comparable with the US ones on the £ = $ basis.

    High Quality Miniature Nuts, Screws, Bolts, Hardware, Fasteners and Accessories | Prime-Miniatures

    ...and with pretty good postal charges so I might have a dig around with some of their rivets. The rivets I've used have a 1.25mm head and Prime Miniatures have a rivet with a 1mm diameter head, so I might try some of them.

    I'm not sure about resin casting with all the undercuts that there might be.

  3. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer

  4. markjj

    markjj Western Thunderer

    A good source for small rivets and many other modelling bit if it' any help. Some are available in the UK from a few model boat suppliers but the service from Poland is cheaper and very good. I hope it's some help.

    RB Model - home page
  5. Dog Star

    Dog Star Western Thunderer


    Not so.

    The 7mm NGA stores sells the Grandt Line range and includes rivets (really useful for those who are doing alterations to JLTRT diesels). More importantly:-

    a) the stores is prepared to sell to non-members;
    b) there is a telephone number so that you make enquiries and place orders.

    I have done just this and recommend the service.
  6. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer


    Many thanks for that pointer. That looks like another good source and the prices are good. The head profile of their rivets looks better, being a flatter dome that the head on my 1/32" brass rivets, which is pretty well semispheric.

  7. markjj

    markjj Western Thunderer

    I have found them to be some of the best profiles. I have some of the scale hardware ones from the US and these look much better. Price and delivery is much better to.
  8. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer


    I've just sent off an order for some of the 0.8mm shaft/1mm head rivets to try them out. Their prices are very good and the postage isn't too steep.

    I've just had a browse through all the headings on this page and I would think that some of our members modelling in the larger scales might be interested in a lot of the hardware - like pulleys, sheaves and shackles.

    RB Model - home page

  9. markjj

    markjj Western Thunderer


    They also do a range of railway wheels I guess for obscure European narrow gauge railways mainly.
    This company do the turned buffers for some of the leading 0-gauge plastic kit manufactures here in the UK
    I brought a load of the 0.5mm shaft 0.8mm head rivets off them to fit the wagon strapping on some wagon kits that I have.
    By the way you will need a strong magnifier to see them when they arrive they are tiny but beautifully formed.

    Mark J
  10. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer

    Well, my rivets arrived from Poland at the beginning of the week from the supplier who Mark suggested...

    RB Model - home page

    ...and I got their 1mm diameter head on 0.8mm shank rivets. They arrived about a week from ordering so pretty good from eastern Europe.

    They do look very good with a flatter dome than the 1/32" rivets I used earlier.

    Here is the first use of them and they look just about right when compared with the GA drawing. The 1mm head equates to a 1 1/4" diameter rivet head full size. I scooshed some Halford's grey over it to see better how they looked.

    ...and they come up very nicely. Please ignore the lack of cleaning up which doesn't show when the Plastikard is in its virginal white. :) I also took a sort of overhead shot...


    ...to show why casting this could be difficult with the projecting brackets for the spring mounts - especially the end ones.

    While waiting for the rivets from Poland, I did have a go at producing rivets from 0.020" Plastikard rod using George Slater's melting technique on the rod ends but I couldn't get a good consistency of head size and the results looked untidy when fitted. I think that if I want to use this method in future I will have to find a way of presenting the rod to the heat source at exactly the same distance for exactly the same time and I suspect that will require some form of jig rather than my dodgy right hand. :)

    LarryG, ScottW, Len Cattley and 8 others like this.
  11. LarryG

    LarryG Western Thunderer

    Smashing stuff. David Jenkinson's Plastikard coaches stood up well to the test of time. I know because a couple came back after David passed away for repair to paint damage following a 'fall'. Pretty good considering I started painting his coaches in the mid 1970's.

    There was a downside to it all though. I carry a lot of static in my body for some reason, which transferred to the plastic coaches and attracted paint like a super-magnet while I was lining them out. So I used to spray some Simoniz anti-static polish onto a cloth and wipe the inside walls of the coach. It worked, but I had to make sure I made no mistakes because 'rubbing' would have re-introduced static with a vengeance.
  12. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer


    I was really impressed with David Jenkinson's methods when they originally appeared in the Modeller in the 1970s. I had had several unsuccessful attempts at construction before this and my first attempt at using his method worked. I also got his book to save digging out the magazines. :) I started using the CNC machine more recently to avoid having to make the separate panelling lacework overlays since hand and eye were becoming not quite up to it. :) But otherwise I build the Jenkinson way.

    And the bodies do last well. I have some Midland six-wheel clerestory bodies built in the 1990s and they show no sign of warpage or disintegration. The only problem I ever got was with some S scale S&D coaches where I had used too much Mekpak when joining the outer sides to the inner box and the sides started buckling after a few weeks. I now put ventilation holes on all my inner box sides to let trapped solvent vent to outside.

    LarryG likes this.