Dapol 08
- Thread starter Ressaldar
- Start date
TheSnapper
Western Thunderer
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Hi Guys,
I also gave in and brought one of these 08 things, I must admit there is something appealing about them, kinda cute in a weird way. Anyhow on inspection my eye was immediately drawn to the horrid brass spacers, some folk might be happy just to blacken them but for me they had to go. On further scrutiny I also noticed the quartering was well out and there was no speedo drive, so hopefully I can correct all 3 things at the same time.
There is nothing new with the method I have used to make a puller to remove the cranks, a chap from over " there " started the ball rolling by making use of a section of 22mm copper heating pipe, I started in a similar way but used plain old 13mm cooper tube. Well the cranks seem to be made of a light metal possibly alloy? and the axles are steel which is a good thing because as delicate as I tried to be when pulling the cranks off they did need a certain amount of welly, so much so that it distorted the tube/puller! The first side drifted off quite easily, but the other side for some reason was a nightmare, the captive nut was just pulling out of the solder on the tube under the strain. So I thought I would try some rectangular brass section I had instead of the tube method, well it did the trick and the drive axle crank actually came off with a resounding crack!
This job took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I was not going to be beaten, it's family time tomorrow so hopefully I will make a start on the rebuild next week sometime.
The two pullers......
Cheers,
Martyn.
I also gave in and brought one of these 08 things, I must admit there is something appealing about them, kinda cute in a weird way. Anyhow on inspection my eye was immediately drawn to the horrid brass spacers, some folk might be happy just to blacken them but for me they had to go. On further scrutiny I also noticed the quartering was well out and there was no speedo drive, so hopefully I can correct all 3 things at the same time.
There is nothing new with the method I have used to make a puller to remove the cranks, a chap from over " there " started the ball rolling by making use of a section of 22mm copper heating pipe, I started in a similar way but used plain old 13mm cooper tube. Well the cranks seem to be made of a light metal possibly alloy? and the axles are steel which is a good thing because as delicate as I tried to be when pulling the cranks off they did need a certain amount of welly, so much so that it distorted the tube/puller! The first side drifted off quite easily, but the other side for some reason was a nightmare, the captive nut was just pulling out of the solder on the tube under the strain. So I thought I would try some rectangular brass section I had instead of the tube method, well it did the trick and the drive axle crank actually came off with a resounding crack!
This job took a lot longer than I anticipated, but I was not going to be beaten, it's family time tomorrow so hopefully I will make a start on the rebuild next week sometime.
The two pullers......
Cheers,
Martyn.
Last edited:
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
The speedo drive has been giving me a lot of grief, the speedo drive shaft is slightly lower than the axles so with each revolution the speedo drive arm needs to extend and contract, as well as revolve at the drive shaft end and also at the coupling rod bracket, ( I hope this is making sense ). Below are a couple of photos showing roughly how I got over these problems, it doesn't look great, but once painted and gunged up I am hoping it will pass muster.
The rods are now back on and so far so good, the chassis is running nice and smooth without any binding.
Cheers,
Martyn.
Edited by 3 link, Today, 21:20 .
The rods are now back on and so far so good, the chassis is running nice and smooth without any binding.
Cheers,
Martyn.
Edited by 3 link, Today, 21:20 .
FiftyFourA
Western Thunderer
Just a note, on the real thing the drive seems to be a telescopic affair, probably to take up any movement of the alxes over BR's dodgy trackwork in sidings. My plan (when I get a round tuit 
) is to use two thin brass tubes, one sliding inside the other, to get the same effect. Once everything is painted or chemically etched the viewer is going have to get pretty damned close to see the bodge.
Peter
) is to use two thin brass tubes, one sliding inside the other, to get the same effect. Once everything is painted or chemically etched the viewer is going have to get pretty damned close to see the bodge.Peter
Stoke5D
Western Thunderer
Just a note, on the real thing the drive seems to be a telescopic affair, probably to take up any movement of the alxes over BR's dodgy trackwork in sidings. My plan (when I get a round tuit
Peter
What he said, except I used a rod in a tube on my MMP 09, which is as per prototype.
Mick's photo's show it perfectly. I've dismantled and re-assembled the real thing several times back in the day, and it's just a rod in a tube. I used to remove the tube part (it's just fixed by a split pin as shown) and leave the rod part attached to the side rods. Surprisingly, I never saw any real wear in this assembly - probably because it was liberally oiled.
Andrew
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Hi Guys,
I have now re-quartered the wheels and with the balance weights roughly where they should of been in the first place, added a speedo drive which turned out to be a right pain but got there in the end. The wheel rims have been blackened to get rid of that shiney un prototypical look and it has just received its first coat of weathering.
I was a bit concerned that I might not get the quartering exact, which you need for smooth slow running. But there was and is quite a bit of play in the drivetrain which helps, so she can still crawl along like she was supposed to.
Next it's on to the body, I will probably alter the cab door handles first as they are in the wrong position and then finally decide her number as I brought one of the un- numbered ones. Then it's on to weathering the body followed by installing a Zimo chip and speaker.
I thought I would put one of these video thingy up here for you as I do not think I have seen any clips at all on this forum before, no doubt I will now be shot down in flames.....
Cheers,
Martyn.
I have now re-quartered the wheels and with the balance weights roughly where they should of been in the first place, added a speedo drive which turned out to be a right pain but got there in the end. The wheel rims have been blackened to get rid of that shiney un prototypical look and it has just received its first coat of weathering.
I was a bit concerned that I might not get the quartering exact, which you need for smooth slow running. But there was and is quite a bit of play in the drivetrain which helps, so she can still crawl along like she was supposed to.
Next it's on to the body, I will probably alter the cab door handles first as they are in the wrong position and then finally decide her number as I brought one of the un- numbered ones. Then it's on to weathering the body followed by installing a Zimo chip and speaker.
I thought I would put one of these video thingy up here for you as I do not think I have seen any clips at all on this forum before, no doubt I will now be shot down in flames.....
Cheers,
Martyn.
InvernessTMD
Western Thunderer
I am in the process of converting mine to a later build, with the strapless doors, and the extra boxes. I have thanks to someone on Facebook the left hand box that went in the gap next to the fuel tank under the side vents, what I need is the box that mirrors the front l/h box. I think they may be battery boxes.
As my MMP 08 is currently in west Wales, I don't know if there was a spare on the etch.
As my MMP 08 is currently in west Wales, I don't know if there was a spare on the etch.
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
I'm doing the same, making new door overlays from styrene sheet and using the MMP detail set for the Bachmann Brassworks/San Chang 08.
The detail set seems to provide all the parts we'd need, including underframe details. I'm not 100% sure it's got the extra box you need, I bought one of the Dapol variants that had it already.
I'm not sure about the steel cab doors either, but they're a relatively simple scratchbuild job.
Steph
The detail set seems to provide all the parts we'd need, including underframe details. I'm not 100% sure it's got the extra box you need, I bought one of the Dapol variants that had it already.
I'm not sure about the steel cab doors either, but they're a relatively simple scratchbuild job.
Steph
Stoke5D
Western Thunderer
You should try and model a specific prototype and period as regards the various boxes on the sides. The basic 08/09 has the two battery boxes amidships on each side. Then there is the taller vacuum exhauster box with the vents. This is on both the front right and left hand sides on the earliest examples (this can be both the long hinge strap as per the Dapol model and the later no strap variant), and on the front left hand side only for the later ones (none of which have the long hinge straps). This is the most common style. Later still comes the air brake compressors, again there is an early and a late solution, with the tall cupboard door style between cab and battery box on the left hand side on the first dual braked modified locos. Subsequently there's another vented box similar to the one used for the exhauster mounted on the side that doesn't have the exhauster, ie. the right hand side at the front, because I don't think any of the early examples were still around for that mod. (but I may be wrong). Even later still, you have vacuum brakes being removed, and so no need for the exhauster box any more. There's lot's of interesting piping arrangements on the front and back for the dual braked ones also, as some have just the air pipes on the buffer beam (but not necessarily always in exactly the same locations) while others have the high level pipes also. The vac. only ones seem all the same. As I say, try and find photographic evidence of your loco and period. Like any long lived item, they have a lot of mods. over the years...
Andrew
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Hi Guys,
Well this is a first for me when it comes to DCC with sound, and thanks to David ( Jinty ) for the speaker and to Paul Chetter for the sound chip. I am well chuffed pardon the pun, and I am having great fun finding out what button does what.
I have the Lenz LH 90 hand set and it's not really user friendly with a newby like me, I have only worked out 8 of the functions so far,so if any kind soul could advise me of an easier handset that is compatible with the Lenz set It would be most appreciated.
Here is a quick video of what I can do at the moment, the picture quality is not that good but it's worth turning up the volume : )
Cheers,
Martyn.
Edited by 3 link, Today, 21:44 .
Well this is a first for me when it comes to DCC with sound, and thanks to David ( Jinty ) for the speaker and to Paul Chetter for the sound chip. I am well chuffed pardon the pun, and I am having great fun finding out what button does what.
I have the Lenz LH 90 hand set and it's not really user friendly with a newby like me, I have only worked out 8 of the functions so far,so if any kind soul could advise me of an easier handset that is compatible with the Lenz set It would be most appreciated.
Here is a quick video of what I can do at the moment, the picture quality is not that good but it's worth turning up the volume : )
Cheers,
Martyn.
Edited by 3 link, Today, 21:44 .
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Roco Multimaus 10810. Can be picked up on e-bay relatively easily.
I have at least 2 of these for use with my Lenz 100 set.
Osgood
Western Thunderer
Can you get those on a Vodafone contract?