A
Arun
Guest
Pleased to hear [at Telford] that the L12 will also be available with long smokebox and stovepipe chimney.
Arun
Arun
Finney7 LSWR L12
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Yep, Arun; superheated, saturated and (ahem) all three chimneys 
Steph
Steph
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
I was speaking to Steph the other day, rather conscious that I had left this drift a bit, and he said 'just smash it together so I know it works'.
Now, I had to look up 'smash it together', and I found it meant 'meticulously craft to the best of your ability'
Joking aside, there are 2 conflicting imperatives here. All Steph wants to know is that the geometry works, everything fits, and there are no fusterclucks along the way. Decusping and careful soldering are simply not relevant. However, for the stand, we want something to impress, so customers go 'Wow, I'll take a dozen!' Those imperatives are at the opposite ends of the spectrum.
So, I'm taking a lot of time off between now and Doncaster, so I can finish off the chassis, including inside valve gear (part of the test etch) to my satisfaction, but also to enable me to say to Steph at Doncaster.....'We're good to go!' Hopefully, he will provide some 3DP parts for the 4 or so castings that are not in our current range. Other than that, I can use mostly the T9 castings to dress the model.
There is a huge family resemblance in the chassis construction from the Adams' Radial and T3, through to the L11 and T9, So much so that I can do it without instructions, which is just as well as they haven't been written yet. I do have a GA in the book of the Drummond Greyhounds however.
Bogie first of all, necessary now as the chassis cannot be set up without it - the bogie pivot is the 3rd point of the compensation system.
The sideframe components with the spring unit laminated together:
The spring and compensation arm:
and the sideframe with bearings.
Richard
Now, I had to look up 'smash it together', and I found it meant 'meticulously craft to the best of your ability'
Joking aside, there are 2 conflicting imperatives here. All Steph wants to know is that the geometry works, everything fits, and there are no fusterclucks along the way. Decusping and careful soldering are simply not relevant. However, for the stand, we want something to impress, so customers go 'Wow, I'll take a dozen!' Those imperatives are at the opposite ends of the spectrum.
So, I'm taking a lot of time off between now and Doncaster, so I can finish off the chassis, including inside valve gear (part of the test etch) to my satisfaction, but also to enable me to say to Steph at Doncaster.....'We're good to go!' Hopefully, he will provide some 3DP parts for the 4 or so castings that are not in our current range. Other than that, I can use mostly the T9 castings to dress the model.
There is a huge family resemblance in the chassis construction from the Adams' Radial and T3, through to the L11 and T9, So much so that I can do it without instructions, which is just as well as they haven't been written yet. I do have a GA in the book of the Drummond Greyhounds however.
Bogie first of all, necessary now as the chassis cannot be set up without it - the bogie pivot is the 3rd point of the compensation system.
The sideframe components with the spring unit laminated together:
The spring and compensation arm:
and the sideframe with bearings.
Richard
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Aah, cough, new castings? Yes...
I've done the first of, I think, three chimneys; this is the 'as built' version suitable for your model in original saturated condition Richard:
It may need a tweak or two before we commit it to production, but it should be enough for your smashing test build and to check that we've got all the dimensions right to ensure it all fits together.
Dome next...
Steph
I've done the first of, I think, three chimneys; this is the 'as built' version suitable for your model in original saturated condition Richard:
It may need a tweak or two before we commit it to production, but it should be enough for your smashing test build and to check that we've got all the dimensions right to ensure it all fits together.
Dome next...
Steph
phileakins
Western Thunderer
I thought this might be of use - seeing as how the subject is bogies ...
The T9 is presently out of traffic with the bogie stripped down and wheels out, I took a lot more pictures if there is interest (I don't want to hijack the thread) and the loco is readily available for more if wanted.
Cheers.
Phil
The T9 is presently out of traffic with the bogie stripped down and wheels out, I took a lot more pictures if there is interest (I don't want to hijack the thread) and the loco is readily available for more if wanted.
Cheers.
Phil
Attachments
![100_0679[1].JPG](/data/attachments/87/87291-2abadd120efcd165389e79542eedeb31.jpg)
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
It's clearance around the motion bracket...
On the prototype the resulting gap is not quite enough to get my thumb in!
Steph
On the prototype the resulting gap is not quite enough to get my thumb in!
Steph
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
Always like detail pictures or LSWR engines.
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Phil,
That's very kind of you, I'll drop you a PM shortly!
Just out of interest, where is she undergoing the work at the moment? I last saw her at Didcot about three years ago. It'd be lovely to see her again; she was introduced to my then-partner as 'the other woman'...
Steph
Rob R
Western Thunderer
Phil, you could post them into a gallery thread (please).
Rob
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
And so to the chassis.....
The kit includes small working hornguides for the rear driver - necessary so that the cab floor has clearance.
Steph advised me (see, blaming him already for any errors ) that for the engine in LSWR 1912 ish condition, the front hornguides should be cut down from the normal Drummond ones we supply separately. I simply used the rear as a template for the front. From left to right Large Drummond, plain rear small, cut down large for the front driver.
I use a Hobby Holidays chassis jig and attach the hornguides to each sideframe separately, rather than build the basic chassis first. The spacers - 3 substantial ones in this case are then soldered to the one side, and a check is made that the second side drops on without any forcing whatever, and that the chassis unit remains square. All worked first time.
The front of the chassis sideframe tapers in which I hope will allow for enough bogie sideplay without having to cut an arc in the frame.
Richard
The kit includes small working hornguides for the rear driver - necessary so that the cab floor has clearance.
Steph advised me (see, blaming him already for any errors
) that for the engine in LSWR 1912 ish condition, the front hornguides should be cut down from the normal Drummond ones we supply separately. I simply used the rear as a template for the front. From left to right Large Drummond, plain rear small, cut down large for the front driver.I use a Hobby Holidays chassis jig and attach the hornguides to each sideframe separately, rather than build the basic chassis first. The spacers - 3 substantial ones in this case are then soldered to the one side, and a check is made that the second side drops on without any forcing whatever, and that the chassis unit remains square. All worked first time.
The front of the chassis sideframe tapers in which I hope will allow for enough bogie sideplay without having to cut an arc in the frame.
Richard
phileakins
Western Thunderer
The T9 is presently on the pit in the Goods Shed Road in Swanage station. She is not readily accessible from any public area other than the higher level road paralleling the railway to the north. However, she is directly opposite the signal box, and as I am a signalman ....
I have responded to Stephs PM so that he can see what I have in the can - but this is a general shot so that you can see her general state.
As I've said to Steph, tell me what you want and I'll see if I can get it.
I'll explore the gallery idea as well, the present collection are just 'snaps' and not at all professional.
Phil
PS Gallery done.
I have responded to Stephs PM so that he can see what I have in the can - but this is a general shot so that you can see her general state.
As I've said to Steph, tell me what you want and I'll see if I can get it.
I'll explore the gallery idea as well, the present collection are just 'snaps' and not at all professional.
Phil
PS Gallery done.
Attachments
Last edited:
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi,
Basic chassis complete. You can see the set back bogie pivot pin. This means the loco is running more or less as a 2-6-0. The front of the frames is tapered in to give some clearance to the leading bogie wheel. Given the sheeting on the frames behind the bogie wheels, it would be very difficult to get the loco round much less than 6' radius curves without cutting arches, for which there isn't room anyway.
I've added a spacer at the very front to give some extra strength to the tapered area which was a bit flexible due to the half-etches recesses.
The compensation was set up without alarms, in fact it was level rather more quickly than I'm used to, and is very stable.
I have the overlay to put on, then the springs to retain the hornblocks, and then it can go on the wheels.
Richard
Basic chassis complete. You can see the set back bogie pivot pin. This means the loco is running more or less as a 2-6-0. The front of the frames is tapered in to give some clearance to the leading bogie wheel. Given the sheeting on the frames behind the bogie wheels, it would be very difficult to get the loco round much less than 6' radius curves without cutting arches, for which there isn't room anyway.
I've added a spacer at the very front to give some extra strength to the tapered area which was a bit flexible due to the half-etches recesses.
The compensation was set up without alarms, in fact it was level rather more quickly than I'm used to, and is very stable.
I have the overlay to put on, then the springs to retain the hornblocks, and then it can go on the wheels.
Richard
FuntleyWorks
Western Thunderer
Hello Richard
Certainly looking forward to this being released as a kit! If I may add one thing regards the bogie, as I found with the T3 that has the same arrangement, the slot in the middle of the stretcher to hold the bogie on would greatly benefit from being in an arc, as the rear pin acts as the pivot then the second slot can cause the bogie to drag round curves as the length in distance extends at it's ends as the bogie negotiates a curve.
Keep the updates coming though!!
Atb
Andrew
Certainly looking forward to this being released as a kit! If I may add one thing regards the bogie, as I found with the T3 that has the same arrangement, the slot in the middle of the stretcher to hold the bogie on would greatly benefit from being in an arc, as the rear pin acts as the pivot then the second slot can cause the bogie to drag round curves as the length in distance extends at it's ends as the bogie negotiates a curve.
Keep the updates coming though!!
Atb
Andrew