7mm Geordie bruiser (NER A7)

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Mick

Carrying on from above and as daft at this sounds - if you live relatively close to work there will be a higher salinity content in the atmosphere especially if the wind is from the NE, E and SE.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Dave, the wind is predominately from the SW around here but I get where you're coming from, we also have hard water around here which can't be helping.

Moving on, one final update, after tonight it'll get boxed away and the desk cleared for the more pressing project, the B1. I haven't achieved as much as I'd wanted in the three weeks or even today and somewhere along the way, probably buried in the detritus that is the work bench, I seem to have lost one of the seat assemblies, hmmph!

Most of the work has been back on the chassis, guard irons, brake shaft bracket, hangers and one cylinder cover, in addition I mocked up a small boiler to test fit onto the model, showing just how much of a gap these engines had between the tanks when compared to the original large boilered engines.

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There are two small wing plates to fit to the front of the tanks to cover the gap, but no such provision was made from above as far as I can tell.

If I get a chance later in the month or the B1 drives me completely insane I'll pick at it a bit more.

Enjoy.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Referring to earlier posts, my boat is in a marine environment, and it has zinc anodes. I see it is possible to buy alu anodes, possibly better in brackish water. I should probably investigate...

Turning to the last post, it must have been a right pain/risk for the crew having a gap like that on the top of the loco if there were no cover plates, granted they’re only up there for watering (& oiling?) but an easy slip and a potentially serious fall.

Best
Simon
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I investigated. Don't use alu in brackish water. Apparently it passivates in low Chloride ion concentrations.
S
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
It appears you have an (amusing) smelling error, Dave. I find my smell checker frequently gets my worms in a muddle too.

Steph
 

simond

Western Thunderer
It is bizarre how the smellchequer can find the most obscure alternatives for what one might think to be really rather common words. I think it’s a conspiracy.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I blame it on Brexit. Of course réadapter should be seawater.....

I've seen what's left of an aluminium sacrifical anode from my neighbours yacht - not much.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Dave,

if there's nothing left of the anode, then it's done its job! Bit like an empty beer glass...

the attached link suggests that Alu is preferred for brackish water. Given that they're Dutch, and they have a bit of water, and a few boats over there, it's probably worth considering!

www.mme-group.com/fileadmin/user_upload/.../MME-Group-Anode-Booklet.pdf

my boat is currently moored in brackish waters...

best
Simon

(I blame Brexit on a conspiracy, but let's not go there!)
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Turning back to the A7, I've a couple of weeks to finish as much as I can before the project gets boxed up at the end of the month.

So onward with the bogie.

Unlike the B1 this is a much simpler affair, primarily the LNER rebuilt version without brakes or equalising beams, and no, there are no plans to replicate that version I'm afraid.

At the moment no side control is built in, the bogie is very narrow with the axle boxes being on the outside of the frames, which makes my standard set up too large to fit. I'll not loose any sleep over it at the moment, besides the bogie pivot is actually a radial affair, rather than running in line left and right it follows an arc much like a radial truck; modelling that will be a challenge for sure, but I have some ideas bouncing around :cool:

IMG_0842.jpg

As one can see a rather simple affair which uses individual axle boxes for springing and here in lines the bear trap. The Finney7 white metal LNER one is a very close match.....there's a couple of webs between the spring and horn cheek, which probably wouldn't cast for certain every time and the spring beam across the top is plain and does not have the split shaft to the axle box on......., certainly for development purposes, however it is tailored to suit the smaller 5/32" axles in the Slaters range.

Problem is, the correct wheel in the Slaters range runs with a 3/16" axle and in this case quarts do not go into pint pots. There are of course several options, ream out the castings to accept the larger axle, which will loose the locating lug on the rear and make the axle box walls quite thin

Develop new castings for the larger axle but again it'll have thin walls to the axle box so that'd probably need over scaling to compensate.

Try and get a 5/32" axle fit a 3/16" wheel, either open out the square hole in the wheel and ram in a 5/32" shaft or turn down a 3/16" to 5/32".

The last option is feasible mathematically but practically how much shoulder is left and is it sufficiently strong enough to hold the wheel square and tight, well as it happens, yes it is :thumbs:

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There's very little shoulder left and the square hole in the wheel is beginning to show on the wheel boss, but it does all tighten up and hold firm and square.

The option does allow the test build to progress and use existing components, but for the future then lets hope Slaters see Nicks and my NER engines and perhaps run up a batch of NER bogie wheels with 5/32" axles :thumbs:

MD
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
but for the future then lets hope Slaters see Nicks and my NER engines and perhaps run up a batch of NER bogie wheels with 5/32" axles

If the bogie wheels and 5/32" axles are unique to two locomotive kits you may end up commissioning Slaters to produce them.

There are of course several options, ream out the castings to accept the larger axle, which will loose the locating lug on the rear and make the axle box walls quite thin

This may appear idiotic :oops: - I assume the locating lug alluded to is a rim on the rear of the axle box which locates in the frame as it's not evident from the photograph since all the axle boxes are facing upwards. As suggestion going forward - is it worth turning one of the axle boxes face down so the reverse can be seen to enable those not always in the know to see what is being referred to? (This could also apply where there is more than one similar component in a kit)
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Right, that's as far as this build goes.

Overall I'm not happy with it as it stands, to many little mistakes here and there and some design aspects that did not work out, great in theory, not so in practice.

I'm going to let it sit for a while in a darkened room whilst I have a rethink on all the areas that did not work or assemble correctly.

Until then, some final photos before it gets boxed away until next year.
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Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
It's a shame your not happy with it, but it looks bloody magnificent to me. No doubt you will tweak it to meet your requirements, oh how I wish I could do as well, even if I knew how to.
Best wishes
Martin
 
M

Mick LNER

Guest
Superb , if only in 4mm !!

Anyone got a Little Engines A7 kit for sale please ?
 
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