Glueing windows in JLTRT kits

28ten

Guv'nor
Im about to fix the windows in the western, I have used zap in the past, but I found it a bit tricky keeping everything neat, does anybody have any better method? or do I just need to be less clumsy? :laugh: :laugh:
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
Im about to fix the windows in the western, I have used zap in the past, but I found it a bit tricky keeping everything neat, does anybody have any better method? or do I just need to be less clumsy? :laugh: :laugh:

For my cab side window etches, I used Formula "560" Canopy Glue, made in the USA by Pacer. It's like a runny PVA and dries clear. :thumbs: Having got a nice snug fit in the apertures, a thin bead of the canopy glue was applied top and bottom, using a piece of blunt 0.5mm wire. Any glue that ends up on the glazing can be removed by poking it around with a cocktail stick (which won't damage the glazing), until it comes off.

Although it holds everything nicely once set, it is possible to remove it again by poking at it. I had to do this on my cab side windows, after breaking the real glass glazing (As Cynric is already aware, I've given up on the 0.8mm glass cover slips and replaced it with 10 clear styrene....!). The residue was easily removed from both the apertures and frames, allowing another attempt to be made. I'm so glad I didn't use superglue... ;)


Regards

Dan
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Dan Randall said:
I had to do this on my cab side windows, after breaking the real glass glazing (As Cynric is already aware, I've given up on the 0.8mm glass cover slips and replaced it with 10 clear styrene....!). The residue was easily removed from both the apertures and frames, allowing another attempt to be made. I'm so glad I didn't use superglue... ;)


Regards

Dan
:scratch: Did you experience similar problems to Cynric ? & have you made your own clear styrene windows in preference to the ones supplied by JLTRT ?. I will be starting my own JLTRT kit this winter so your tips would be much appreciated ;)

Phill :wave:
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I agree with Dan and the Canopy Glue or Krystal Klear as an equal alternative. I found on the GUVs that the windows were in fact a 'snap' fit and therefore did not need any glue .

regards

Mike
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Dan Randall said:
For my cab side window etches, I used Formula "560" Canopy Glue, made in the USA by Pacer. It's like a runny PVA and dries clear. :thumbs: Having got a nice snug fit in the apertures, a thin bead of the canopy glue was applied top and bottom, using a piece of blunt 0.5mm wire. Any glue that ends up on the glazing can be removed by poking it around with a cocktail stick (which won't damage the glazing), until it comes off.

Although it holds everything nicely once set, it is possible to remove it again by poking at it. I had to do this on my cab side windows, after breaking the real glass glazing (As Cynric is already aware, I've given up on the 0.8mm glass cover slips and replaced it with 10 clear styrene....!). The residue was easily removed from both the apertures and frames, allowing another attempt to be made. I'm so glad I didn't use superglue... ;)


Regards

Dan
How secure is the canopy glue? I dont want the windscreen coming loose :shock: :shock:
 

28ten

Guv'nor
well i am sat here holding the first piece in the cab waiting for the glue to go off..... now I know why i used cyano last time :laugh: :laugh:
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Phill Dyson said:
[quote=""Dan Randall"":258rmli6] I had to do this on my cab side windows, after breaking the real glass glazing (As Cynric is already aware, I've given up on the 0.8mm glass cover slips and replaced it with 10 clear styrene....!). The residue was easily removed from both the apertures and frames, allowing another attempt to be made. I'm so glad I didn't use superglue... ;)


Regards

Dan
:scratch: Did you experience similar problems to Cynric ? & have you made your own clear styrene windows in preference to the ones supplied by JLTRT ?. I will be starting my own JLTRT kit this winter so your tips would be much appreciated ;)

Phill :wave:[/quote:258rmli6]

Hi Phil

My Western windscreens were made from microscope slides, which are about 1mm thick and therefore, quite strong. They were a real sod to cut and shape, but I liked the clarity, scratch resistance and immunity to fogging (by solvents etc), of glass compared with any form of plastic.

For the cab side windows, I went down the real glass route again, this time using microscope cover slips. These are only 0.8mm thick and I had a lot of trouble actually cutting them, as being so thin, they were prone to breakage. Once I had a set I was happy with, I glued them to my etched window frames with Araldite and started installing them. I then experienced further breakages, as the fit into the apertures needed to be an interference fit and the glass just didn't like being flexed.

I was installing my windows while the cabs were still separate from the body and I realised that even if I managed to get a full set of glass side windows in without breakage, if any were to break after the cabs and body were assembled, it would be impossible to replace them.

I?ve now replaced all the cab side glazing with 10 thou Evergreen styrene and as a precaution against fogging, have weathered them with some acrylic paint I bought in Hobbycraft last week.

I?ll post some pictures on my workbench thread later. :)



Regards

Dan
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Thanks for that Dan, I do like the look of real glass, but I hadn't thought of the cabs being completely sealed on the completed loco, I must say that I do not like this aspect of JLTRT kits as I have made all my cabs accessible on other locos as I did have a drivers seat become unstuck in one loco & this would be nigh on impossible to repair with the JLTRT design :scratch:

Cheers Phill
 

28ten

Guv'nor
I tried to make the cab interior removeable, but it's impossible, I have made the bulkhead removeable though. If you try glass beware as something happened on mine when the aralditr cured and cracked some of the resin frame so beware!
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
I tried to make the cab interior removeable, but it's impossible, I have made the bulkhead removeable though. If you try glass beware as something happened on mine when the aralditr cured and cracked some of the resin frame so beware!
Cheers Cynric, I'm still undecided about real glass, the removable bulkhead is an excellent idea :thumbs:
Phill :wave:
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Phill Dyson said:
[quote=""28ten"":6gkqjwwc]I tried to make the cab interior removeable, but it's impossible, I have made the bulkhead removeable though. If you try glass beware as something happened on mine when the aralditr cured and cracked some of the resin frame so beware!
Cheers Cynric, I'm still undecided about real glass, the removable bulkhead is an excellent idea :thumbs:
Phill :wave:[/quote:6gkqjwwc]

I made my bulkheads removeable too Phil, though how easy it will be to get them in and out once the body is asembled, remains to be seen. I'm hoping I won't have to mind.... :lol:

Regards

Dan
 
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