Inside valvegear in 7mm. Techniques and components

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Guys,

I've just been through the early postings on this thread and have reinstated the photos that didn't make it through the last software change. So hopefully it'll prove to be useful once more... :)

Steph
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
I should add that the motion plate and brackets on the ends of the slide bars and also the weigh shaft with the lifting links had to be scratch built as these are not produced by Laurie

ATB, Col.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
I should add that the motion plate and brackets on the ends of the slide bars and also the weigh shaft with the lifting links had to be scratch built as these are not produced by Laurie

Col, Rob,

To add to that - I'll need a set of the slidebar brackets for my G6 so there's every chance that they will be available from Laurie by the time you get round to it ;)

The weigh shaft will continue to be a user-supplied part though as it would be tricky to cast it a retain the functionality of it being able to support the linft links - to be honest they're not that difficult to make from brass rod, tube and scrap fret.

Steph
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Cheers guys, the terminology still eludes me somewhat but I hope to get there:oops:. I don't mind scratch building bit's but getting more from Laurie can only be good:thumbs:
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi Steph

I'm considering using Loctite 638 for the assembly of the cranks on to the axle for my latest inside valve gear.

A year or so down the line, are you still happy with Loctiote 638 as a suitable adhesive?

How do you apply it? Assemble everything then glue, allowing capillary action (how viscous is it?) to draw it into the joins?
Put some on and the add the part?
How much adjustment time do you have?

Thanks

Richard
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph
I'm considering using Loctite 638 for the assembly of the cranks on to the axle for my latest inside valve gear.
A year or so down the line, are you still happy with Loctite 638 as a suitable adhesive?
Yep - it's still as sound as it was when I made it and I'm intending to continue using it for all future builds.

How do you apply it? Assemble everything then glue, allowing capillary action (how viscous is it?) to draw it into the joins?
Nope - it seems to be thixotropic (as most retainers are) so won't flow.
Put some on and the add the part?
Yep. I clean all the parts and then dry assemble the parts, including a pin through each crank. Then remove one pin and crank, apply Loctite adjacent to the webs. Rotate the crank to smear the retainer and then push it home, followed by the pin.
Leave two minutes and repeat on the other side. Leave somewhere warm for upto 72 hours and then add any extra pins you want, before cutting the axle.
How much adjustment time do you have?
Typically around 30 seconds. It apparently reaches the same strength as Loctite 601 in about 2 minutes.
As an aside it's worth a practise (3/16" bearing on old axle or silver steel) and I make sure I use the cleaner at the same time (Loctite 7063) and the 638 is in date.

A brave man.
Not really.... :D
Steph
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Steph, if the Loctite 638 is good enough and you follow the stringent cleaning regime... then why do you need to pin the joint?

Why not make the joint a reasonable fit and then insert a taper pin?

regards, Graham
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Steph, if the Loctite 638 is good enough and you follow the stringent cleaning regime... then why do you need to pin the joint?

Why not make the joint a reasonable fit and then insert a taper pin?

regards, Graham

Either are good, of course. The idea of the taper pin is interesting but I'm aware that few people have pin reamers/pins necessary to use them effectively. I'd continue to use a wire pin to help align the parts during Loctite assembly, if nothing else. My 2251 has only got one pin in each crank, I think...

Steph
 

David Taylor

Western Thunderer
If you want some references on valve gear, search books.google.com for "locomotive valve gear". I've found some excellent stuff on there.

Regards,
David.
 
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