J71 Wheels

Caggers

Western Thunderer
Hi,

I have just bought a J71 kit and need some wheels. I currently have nothing so have the option to buy S7 if available or something else and have them corrected.
Thoughts and ideas are greatly welcome.

Cheers
Simon
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
So you bought it then, I have a set of the Society wheels pal and they're very good indeed. They have a steel insert for a 10ba steel bolt to be used as a crank pin. A couple of not very good pictures show you hopefully

2014_1014MickIphone0009.jpg
2014_1014MickIphone0008.jpg

Mick :thumbs:
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
All very odd. In fact very even. The J71 had 14-spoke wheels with the crankpin in-line. The S7 Group wheels have 14 spokes but Slater's have labelled them incorrectly as 15-spoke!
 

Caggers

Western Thunderer
Overseer,

I have done that already just asking the question to see what else is out there before buying, probably from the Society...
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Overseer,

I have done that already just asking the question to see what else is out there before buying, probably from the Society...
Sorry, can't help with alternatives. The S7 Group wheels would be hard to beat, saying that they do have flat backs so there is some work which can be done to profile the back of the spokes to match the prototype. For the crankpins I modify the screw head by thinning it down and insert from the outer face of the wheel so it looks like the cotter fixed retaining ring on the end of the crankpin, instead of having a hexagonal nut on the outside.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Any chance of a picture of your crank pin approach please ? The second picture shows me dropping some loctite on and then once it goes off the cheese head is removed and I intended to use some CPL nuts.

Mick
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Any chance of a picture of your crank pin approach please ? The second picture shows me dropping some loctite on and then once it goes off the cheese head is removed and I intended to use some CPL nuts.

Mick

Mick, looking at my models most of the crankpins being represented are the early fixed type with split brasses in the coupling rods instead of the ring and cotter retained latter type. The filed down screws look like this -
GEngland wheelm.jpg
GEngland wheelm1.jpg
To replicate this -
GEngland rods.jpg

And the underframe of a Hawthorn 0-4-2T long term shelf queen with turned down Slaters 4' diameter wheels.
Hawthorn HR17 uf.jpg
Using the standard Slaters wheels I sink the brass nut into the rear of the wheel but this in not necessary with the S7 Group wheels. I nearly always have to use the smaller 1.5mm diameter bushes to fit in the small coupling and connecting rods used on the earlier locomotives instead of the larger bushes supplied with most Slaters wheels. The bushes are mounted so the 'rim' is against the wheel centre and the filed down screw head retains the rods without a washer. To represent the ring and cotter retainer I would turn the screw head to the shape of the prototype ring instead of just filing it flat.

I hope that helps. Sorry Simon for the thread highjack.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Cheers Fraiser,

This approach makes a lot of sense and as you say should be straight forward with the S7 wheel sets. I will bear it in mind:thumbs:

Mick
 
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