Jerry's random 2mm stuff

Discussion in '2mm Lounge' started by queensquare, 14 December 2012.

  1. Simon

    Simon Flying Squad

    They look really good Jerry, have a good trip to the NEC and I look forward to a bit of spotting on Sunday:)

    Simon
     
  2. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    Thanks all.
    Whilst Highbury is being retired from the national circuit (Tucking Mill is booked till 2017) it will still come out for local shows and 2mm events.

    Jerry
     
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  3. Simon Glidewell

    Simon Glidewell Western Thunderer

    All lovely work Jerry; I especially like the green 0-4-0 steam loco. Can I ask you where you got the replacement coupling rods for your Farish class 14? Did you make them yourself or can you buy an etch from somewhere?

    All the best
    Simon
     
  4. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    Hi Simon , many thanks for your kind comments. The little green 0-4-0T is now an 0-6-0t following a rebuild.

    The class 14 detailing etch is by Another Association member, Steve 'pixie' Nichols. There are none available at the moment but he is happy to tack a few on the corner of another etch when he does one. I'm doing one for a customer at the moment and fancy doing another for myself as I've just picked up another 14 in the attractive NCB blue.

    Jerry
     
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  5. Simon Glidewell

    Simon Glidewell Western Thunderer

    Thanks for the info Jerry. The class 14 is a nice little model but the way it is put together is rather odd, especially the footplate. The bonnets on mine (BR green) were glued too far into the cab (at the factory) and caused the footplate to bend upwards. Pulling the chassis apart and then putting it back together is a good test of "staying calm"! I've upgraded mine, correcting the bad assembly; re-profiling the wheel faces (much thinner); filling in the axle holes in the centre of the wheels so they are flush with no sign of the axle; refining the coupling rods by carefully filing the over heavy joints and thinning down the rods themselves (I repainted them from red to yellow); and finally re weathering and improving the awful factory weathering! Now it looks much nicer and finer in appearance. The NCB blue livery is indeed very attractive and really suits these locos.

    All the best
    Simon
     
    Last edited: 2 February 2015
  6. Simon Glidewell

    Simon Glidewell Western Thunderer

    Hello again Jerry,

    Would Steve consider adding a pair of coupling rods for this loco for me the next time he's etching some? Obviously I'd pay whatever he charges and postage. What about crank pins? Do you refine the Farish ones or use replacements? Does Steve do a set for the Farish 08 by any chance? I hope you don't mind me asking.

    All the best
    Simon
     
    Last edited: 6 February 2015
  7. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    Hi Simon, the 14 etch includes replacement coupling rods, a door which allows you to model it open and buffer beams that don't have the huge cutout for the rapido coupling. Your best bet is to drop Steve a pm. He's not on here but is on RMWeb as 'pixie'. I'm sure he'd help, he's a very afable chap.
    Regarding crank pins. I put a sleeve in the hole to reduce the size then fit Association crank pins. Are you sticking with N gauge or are you thinking of converting to 2FS?

    Jerry
     
  8. Simon Glidewell

    Simon Glidewell Western Thunderer

    Many thanks Jerry. Unfortunately I'm not a member of RMweb anymore so I wouldn't be able to send pixie a message. Much as I'd like to have a go at 2mm fine scale, I want to devote my main energies to P4, so it would just be N gauge but using the relatively new bullhead track system from C and L, with upgraded locos, etc.

    Cheers
    Simon
     
  9. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    finally made a start on the next bit of motive power for the North Somerset Light, chap needs a PMU!

    photo 1 (1).JPG photo 2 (1).JPG

    Jerry
     
  10. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

    Hang on a minute "a PMU" - the photo clearly shows one set of etchings and a semi-built up unit. So this is either a little bit of clever photoshop trickery or there is more than one in the pipeline. That said I would be interested in knowing what the power train arrangement will be.
     
  11. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    Morning Adrian, yes it's a PMU, a Petrol Multiple Unit - one of the Colonel Stephens Ford rail buses which ran as a pair, back to back, sometimes with a wagon in between. The whitemetal casting in the picture is from a Langley model T which I'm considering using instead of the etched one supplied.
    I do have a design sketched out using a 6mm Nigel Lawton motor and pulley drive but these railcars really are tiny and I'm worried it will take up too much space. One of the main characteristics is their light, open look so I am looking to go with a powered wagon between the two units. This will either be an exSDJR low roofed road van or, if the mechanism is low enough, an open wagon with a tarpaulin.

    Jerry
     
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  12. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

    Thanks for the explanation - I hadn't realised it was a two car unit as I guessed PMU as Personal Motor Unit. I've just been trying to put together a motor unit for a rail motor and I used the 6mm motor from Nigel Lawton. Unfortunately the motor hasn't got enough umph to get the wheels turning. So I'm going to have to go through checking everything is free as possible, plus try a slightly larger motor to get the mechanism run in. If it loosens up then I may try putting the 6mm motor back in. Hence my interest is seeing what solution you come up with.
     
  13. Overseer

    Overseer Western Thunderer

    Adrian, could you show us what you have put together? The 6mm motor should work but you do need to have as little friction as possible in the drive train. If you look at any of the commercial N mechanisms they are all loose and sloppy. Quite different to a 7mm scale mechanism.
     
  14. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    Whilst I would agree that you want as little friction in the drive train as possible "all loose and sloppy" is likely to cause more problems than it solves. In N this is generally to allow locos to go round silly tight curves and has very little to do with good running.

    Jerry
     
  15. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

    Hi, thanks for the interest. I will post where I have got to but rather than clutter up Jerry's thread I will start my own 2mm workbench thread for it. I've tried to make the mechanism free running rather than sloppy - there's very little spare room to have it loose and sloppy!
     
  16. Overseer

    Overseer Western Thunderer

    Yes, I didn't express that too well. The N gauge comment was to illustrate how the mass producers make things work while dealing with their manufacturing tolerances. Trying to replicate this with proper gears and bearings from the 2mmSA would lead to tears and rapid wear. The aim should be to have nearly no perceptible resistance when revolving the gear chain as the small motors have very little torque at low revs but are ok once running.
     
  17. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    I've had a bit of a splurge Doing things for my Bath Queensquare project of late and one of the things I started several years ago and have now got round to building a chassis for is this little MR 1F. Here she is covered in flux, filings and excess solder and in need of a good scrub. Few more details to go but nearly thre.
    She has a Lawton 8mm motor glued in, 60:1 double reduction gearing and runs very nicely. I'll take a picture of her with the lid off when I clean her up.
    image.jpg image.jpg

    Jerry
     
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  18. john lewsey

    john lewsey Western Thunderer

    What a lovely model
     
  19. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    image.jpg image.jpg Managed to get the 1F finished ready for a good clean up and paint. As promised, a couple of snaps with the lid off

    image.jpg
    Jerry
     
  20. queensquare

    queensquare Western Thunderer

    Just realised when looking at John's progress on his Lzzize and Jub that Id not posted anything for a while so thought Id put up a quick montage of what Ive been building over the Christmas break. Its an SDJR small 4-4-0, the 2P is there purely to demonstrate why they are refered to as 'small'!
    For those interested there are more details in my Bath Queensquare thread over on RMWeb. Bath Queen Square - Page 16 - 2mm Finescale
    IMG_2020.JPG IMG_2022.JPG IMG_2023.JPG IMG_2024.JPG IMG_2027.JPG IMG_2028.JPG IMG_2032.JPG IMG_2050.JPG IMG_2051.JPG IMG_2055.JPG

    Happy New Year all, Jerry
     
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