Jon Nazareth's G3 workbench

[jamiepage]

Jon,
It might be easier to initially assemble as below with both C pieces bent at either end of a single strip. This could assist a consistency of overall length, and help keep the hangers aligned with each other. Any slight variation in spring lengths could be addressed then hidden behind the shackle overlays.
In fact, I did use something very similar to this when building a 7mm carriage truck, so it does work but fully appreciate it may not be everyone's cup of tea!
Jamie

 

[unklian]

Firstly a picture of the back of things, always the more interesting side. This shows my subterfuge with the spring hangers a bit more clearly I hope.



The split spoke wheels are indeed home made, the spokes were bent from brass strip into pizza slice shapes and a brass boss turned up. They were then placed in an ally jig and all lead/softsoldered together. After which the resulting assembly was mounted on a mandrel in the lathe and carefully turned and trued up. A separate brass tyre was then turned and Araldited on. Kind of like the real thing was made. Steel axles and plastic top hat insulation bushes as per smaller scales completed each wheelset . These were made in the early days of my G3 modelling when the only wagon wheels you could buy were iron castings . I jumped for joy when Slaters started making G3 wheels.

And by the way Jon the cast spring in the first picture of my previous post is 4' 6" long and I am casting a similar one for Mike Williams too. So you might like a look at them before you make yours A 6 foot pattern for a cast spring would be nice though if you fancy making one . If you pinned the springs on to the w-irons like Mike does in his kits, then only the middle of the spring is load bearing and the hangers can be whitemetal castings too .

Ian

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Jamie
Thank you for the sketches and yes, a good idea. I'm still working on the springs proper at the moment and will post pictures to show progress. As you can see, I've already bent up eyes on the ends of the top leaves but I will try one without as per your drawing.
Ian
I once read an article by a chap called Richard Davidson from Australia who used a similar method for constructing O Gauge wheels. I can see that there is a lot of work in the construction of a set of wheels but I have always wanted to have a go. A set of mansell wheels may be a little bit easier to make and well, one day..........

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

For what it's worth, here are a couple of shots of the 6' leaf spring. In the end, I bent up and soldered the hangers from a single piece of nickel.

Jon

 

[jamiepage]

Crikey, Jon, that really is superb work. Marvellous.

 

[Stevesopwith]

That is amazing.... absolutely perfect!

 

[unklian]

You want to watch it Jon they will all be after you to do pattern making at this rate ... Good work there !

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Here is a casting of the 6' spring shown above. They came in the post today from a chap in Australia and, as you can see, I haven't cleaned it up as yet. Theses springs are for the brake van which I will get back to once the horsebox is finished. The top leaf is a little thin but I'll just have to be a bit more cautious that usual when mounting it to the underframe. I think it's rather good

Jon

 

[geoff_nicholls]

They would be just right for the LNWR four wheeler that Mike produced. Mine is stalled at the springs/axlebox stage...

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Geoff
As a follow up to your PM, here is Nic Robson's email address just in case anyone wants to contact him over acquiring some of these springs. As mentioned before, he must have a mould and therefore be able to reproduce them. His address is, nicr@eurekamin.com.au>

 

[AndyB]

Jon,
That is certainly a very nice casting.
Is there a pin or two in the back to locate it into the axleguard? The top leaf is so thin that I would be worried about it breaking if it is reacting the vertical load from the axlebox (which I assume it is judging by the coil spring locater pin in the bottom).

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Andy
Yes the top leaf is thin and no, there aren't any pins at the back. My idea was to glue it to the axle guard with something like Araldite. On the brake van, it touches the axleguard in four places so, I'm hoping that that will be enough to stop the top leaf breaking, fingers crossed. If I ever go though this process again, I shall make the top leaf of the pattern thicker.

Jon

 

[Overseer]

Eureka Miniatures are very good. I use them and this reminds me I need to finish another spring pattern and go and see them with all the axlebox patterns to get another batch cast. Mine are 1:48 scale though. The shop is only open for a few hours on Friday afternoon and on Saturday morning so can be difficult to remember to go when they are open. Their wargaming customers tend to look at the model railway parts with some bewilderment, as I do at the strange mythical beasts in the display cabinets.

 

[jamiepage]

Jon,
An option, if you harbour doubts, could be to solder a strip with locating tongue across the axleguards, hidden by the cosmetic spring. Any spring locator on the axlebox would need to be re-sited a mm or two inboard but it would leave the cosmetic castings free of any load.
The strip could be on the inside face of the axleguards if necessary.

Or, it is possible to drill axleguards and leaf spring for pegs a la Mike Williams kits.

I did that retrospectively with this wagon (after foolishly removing them in the first place from Mike's castings!).


But, maybe best just left if you're happy with it.
Yours
Jamie

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Jamie
What model is that underframe from and how did you mount the dummy spring with that strip in the way?

Jon

 

[jamiepage]

Jon,
The dummy springs were held in place, spotted through from thw axleguard holes, removed, blind drilled, then araldited in place. Pegs were then smeared with araldite, pushed through from the rear then finished off flush when dry.
Yours
Jamie

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Sorry, Jamie, I was looking at the picture with the strips on the outside. Wouldn't they get in the way of the dummy spring? Well, whichever side they go, it's a good idea and I may well put some strips on the inside of the axleguards on my brake van.

Jon

 

[jamiepage]

Ahh, sorry Jon.
The cosmetic spring butted up against it after its rear face (the spring's, that is) was flattened somewhat. I should really have recessed the spring casting, but lazily just flattened it.
The subterfuge is just about invisible; it also means the wagon can be finished, running gear, suspension and all, before affixing the cosmetic fancies such as your springs.
Yours
Jamie

 

[Jon Nazareth]

I've finally cleared off my proposed 7mm layout with the intention of turning it into a display area for my growing G3 models. I've been housing them on my bookshelves but, every time that I finish a piece of rolling stock, I have to move the books in order to find a home it. This, for me will be a far better solution and I can reclaim my bookshelf space. The layout length is 4m and I have about 17m of track, more that enough. I would like to have had at least one turnout but, bearing in mind the cost to buy off the shelf and the time and effort/skill in making one, I've decided to use just straight and curved track.
I painted the bank along the wall a dark green simply to act as a background colour for 'scatter' but decided that it would be quicker and easier to glue on grass matting. The cork surface I'm going to paint a grey, lay the track and then cover the remaining area with soil from the garden. To do this, I will dry out the soil first, put it through a fine sieve and then bake it in the oven in order to kill off any mini bugs and seeds. Next, and a section at a time, paint on mat oil based varnish and while still wet, sprinkle on the soil. When the varnish is dry, brush off the surplus for re use and then hoover off the remaining 'dust'. I've used this system on a 7mm layout and it worked very well. The reason behind the mat varnish is so that if any areas don't take, the mat varnish on the grey paint shouldn't show too much whereas satin or gloss would.

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

I wasn't going to include any buildings on this the most simple of layouts but, I thought that a privy or some other small building would fit into this recess. I could scratch build something up to about 8' wide at the most. I have lots of books showing rolling stock but not of buildings. Anyone point me in the direction of any measured or scaleable drawings?

Jon