Just Like the Real Thing Presflo. O gauge

[sulzer]

Can you oblige Jack with an end on photo of our M& M Presflo when next at the flat? You have started up a very intriging thread here my mate!
DAD

 

[Jack Girling]

Hi Jack

Can you post a photo of your Presflo squarely end on please? I'll do the same with my NQLTRT one and we can compare

Thanks.

Richard

Hi Richard.

I certinaly can post those photos.

I am going to go over to take the pictures tomorrow so look out for them.

Jack Girling

 

[iploffy]

Hello Jack that's what we like to see plenty of input.

 

[Overseer]

Hi Jack, (greeting rather than a warning about derailing the thread!)

I think you will find that M&M / EMKDE have completely revised their Presflo kit. I haven't actually seen one of the current kits (released about a year ago) but the online photos look very good. The roof profile has been corrected. I have been considering getting one/some as I like the shape of the Presflo but haven't thought of a good excuse to buy yet. Burntisland alumina maybe ..... The M&M etched kit captures the fine look of the angle iron verticals far better than the cast resin kit in my opinion. They also do the two different tank shapes.

All this talk about not being able to solder etched kits suggests that a group build of a etched wagon kit could be a good idea. Any suggestions for a suitable kit? Soldering brass and nickel silver is not difficult and doesn't need lots of expensive equipment, just the right size soldering iron for the work being done. If you get it wrong first time, just apply more heat and take it apart and try again. Having nearly finished a MMP 16 ton mineral I would tend to select a similar recently released etched kit as the practice kit as everything fits together as it should, also the thinner brass used is easier to solder than the thick brass used in older kits. I have memories of really struggling with a couple of older etched wagon kits, at least one beat me and was never finished.

 

[Gilbert]

I'd echo all the comments about the issues with the JLTRT version. For example it took me over an hour to get the buffers functioning and I know guys who build kits professionally who would not touch it due to the time vs cost debate. Finished its a nice model. I was lucky - I came across one at local show when building mine and was able to get a load of photos of the underffame etc. How digital photography has enhanced our hobby!
Chris

 

[Dan Randall]

Having nearly finished a MMP 16 ton mineral I would tend to select a similar recently released etched kit as the practice kit as everything fits together as it should, also the thinner brass used is easier to solder than the thick brass used in older kits.

Ooh, any chance of some pictures please? A friend of mine is thinking about flashing out for a bulk pack of these and sometimes visits WT to see what's going on (I haven't persuaded him to join yet though). I'm sure he'd be interested to see what they're like.


Regards

Dan

 

[Overseer]

Dan

Sorry, you will have to wait until later next week as I am away until then.

 

[Dikitriki]

Hi

This is the current state of play of the first NQLTRT presflo, the most advanced of the 5, the guinea pig as it were. I am making the hopper separate from the chassis so I am making more work for myself, but I think it will make it much easier to paint in the long.....very long.....run.









Cheers

Richard

 

[Jack Girling]

Good Evening modelers.

As promised I have uploaded a end on view of the M&M presflo.

To me there doesn't seem to be a massive difference in the roof profile.

I think that if the other presflo's were done in a different livery then this small difference would not be noticeable.
anyway please see below photo.

 

[Dikitriki]

Thanks for posting Jack.

Placed side by side, I think there is a noticeable difference. However, I do think yours is extremely well built and finished and looks the part.

As an aside, it is highly commendable that M&M have continued to develop what was already a good product to make it better. I wish that all manufacturers were so good. The new one does look good on their website, but they could do with larger, higher definition pictures to sell their wares better.

Have you had any thoughts as to what you wish to do now the waters have been muddied?

Richard

 

[Jack Girling]

Thanks for posting Jack.

Placed side by side, I think there is a noticeable difference. However, I do think yours is extremely well built and finished and looks the part.

As an aside, it is highly commendable that M&M have continued to develop what was already a good product to make it better. I wish that all manufacturers were so good. The new one does look good on their website, but they could do with larger, higher definition pictures to sell their wares better.

Have you had any thoughts as to what you wish to do now the waters have been muddied?

Richard

Good Evening Richard.

I think that I would be able to construct the JLRT to a good standard. I am aware that the white metal can need some cleaning up as I have built one of there shock absorbing vans. But before I got a kit I would have to do more research into liveries and transfers that are available and of the correct period to match the yellow blue circle.

May I ask what your plans are in terms of liveries?.

anyway I think I need to do a lot more research into period liveries and who does the transfers for that livery.

personally I would like to build one in this livery


or this ..........


Anyway thank you for those brilliant pictures of your preslo that you are building very well.

It has given me a good understanding of what the kit is like......

Jack

 

[Osgood]

So I can see that the full size presflo body has something like 4"x 3" x 3/8" angle reinforcing, whereas the JLTRT model uses the scale equivalent of 4" x 2" box section. Clearly the full size presflo is seriously incorrect.

 

[Jack Girling]

So I can see that the full size presflo body has something like 4"x 3" x 3/8" angle reinforcing, whereas the JLTRT model uses the scale equivalent of 4" x 2" box section. Clearly the full size presflo is seriously incorrect.

Yes there does appear to a slight difference between the model and real wagon. I have to say that the M&M does look more realistic in terms of the reinforcing members.

Jack

 

[Osgood]

Indeed. The disparity between the two seems so great that it leads one to wonder if some full size presflos had box section reinforcing.....

 

[Jack Girling]

Indeed. The disparity between the two seems so great that it leads one to wonder if some full size presflos had box section reinforcing.....

It is a possibility. They were built at different locations so there may have been differences in the manufacture. also they were built over a number of years so it is possible the design was changed. I belive 1900 were built so there probably was a difference.

I would think that it is a very real possibility that the differences are correct. the M&M seems to match the pictures tho....

because the JLRT is resin it is possible that it wasn't possible to make the section any smaller as it would be very difficult to manufacture it accuratley..... due to the M&M being brass the reinforcements are thinner as they are brass and have to be seperatley soldered to the basic flat sides of the wagon.

In conclusion I think it is hard to say weather the JLRT is accurate. it is highly likely it is and that there was variations of the wagons.

 

[Dan Randall]

Dan

Sorry, you will have to wait until later next week as I am away until then.

That's OK Overseer, there's no rush.


Regards

Dan

 

[Dikitriki]

It is a possibility. They were built at different locations so there may have been differences in the manufacture. also they were built over a number of years so it is possible the design was changed. I belive 1900 were built so there probably was a difference.

I would think that it is a very real possibility that the differences are correct. the M&M seems to match the pictures tho....

because the JLRT is resin it is possible that it wasn't possible to make the section any smaller as it would be very difficult to manufacture it accuratley..... due to the M&M being brass the reinforcements are thinner as they are brass and have to be seperatley soldered to the basic flat sides of the wagon.

In conclusion I think it is hard to say weather the JLRT is accurate. it is highly likely it is and that there was variations of the wagons.

I think you are being far too charitable.

I would suggest the NQLTRT presflo's ribs are determined by the perceived lack of strength of thinner resin, and that it was felt that true scale thickness would be far too vulnerable to handling damage.

I have seen no evidence for box section ribs, and would argue that the M&M model is far more accurate in this area. If they have redone the roof as has been suggested, then they are probably a better basis for an accurate model.....but fun with all that soldering

As to the livery of mine....boring brown. I don't go for stand out models, and I have not seen any evidence for branded presflos on the Oldham Loop.

Richard

 

[Jack Girling]

I think you are being far too charitable.

I would suggest the NQLTRT presflo's ribs are determined by the perceived lack of strength of thinner resin, and that it was felt that true scale thickness would be far too vulnerable to handling damage.

I have seen no evidence for box section ribs, and would argue that the M&M model is far more accurate in this area. If they have redone the roof as has been suggested, then they are probably a better basis for an accurate model.....but fun with all that soldering

As to the livery of mine....boring brown. I don't go for stand out models, and I have not seen any evidence for branded presflos on the Oldham Loop.

Richard

Good evening Richard.

I would imagine you are probably correct.

It is more likely that JLRT had trouble accurately casting the ribbing without it distorting or being to delicate.

As always a model has compromises and is merely a representation of the real item. therefore sometimes some parts of a model have to be very slightly out of dimension to improve the model. I would imagine that JLRT would have tried without success to achieve the thin ribs but probably found it difficult.

Nothing wrong with the old BR bauxite. with so carful cement like weathering the brown turns a little bit more exciting anyway.

So would your presflos be like the below ones? the BR liveried ones just had the words cement between the ribbing. along with all the data panels and instructions.



M&M models sell the transfer sheets for this. they are waterslide. I don't know what your preference is between water slide and presfix but i personally prefer waterslides. You get a chance to move the letters with waterslide.

I would imagine that presfix would be dificult to line up and get staright along the line of the wagon. both me and sulzer (my dad Bryan) find it can ruin a good model when transfers are crooked.

anyway here is the link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-Gauge-W...es_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item5880a7a144

Regards Jack

 

[Dikitriki]

Hi Jack

My presflos will broadly speaking look like those shown in your post - though there were variations in the positioning of the lettering. I will get my transfers from Cambridge Custom Transfers, sheet BL27.

http://www.cctrans.freeserve.co.uk/products.htm

Richard

 

[Ian G]

Will have to sort out photos i.e. resize them next week appoligies for the delay.

Regards

Ian G