Lionheart Panniers S7

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
I've a couple of the excellent Lionheart Panniers and I'm looking for information to convert these to s7. Anyone done this yet?
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Martyn ( Chuffer on here) has an example.
I was told by Richard W that the brake gear needed some outward adjustment and the wheels were not re-profiled but simply moved out to S7 back-to-back.
Apparently the tyre profile, whilst not S7, is finer than most and thus proved to be just about ok as it is so re-profiling may not be a necessity?

Might be worth PMing Chuffer (in fact I have been meaning to do the same since speaking with Richard, so if you do can you copy me in too?).

T
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Thanks Tony, You've reminded me of the thread. Looks like it is any easy job with the existing wheels but I'll see about getting reprofiled.
 

JHRL6971

New Member
Two questions if I may on the Dapol (ex-Lionheart) 64/74xx:



1) I plan to renumber one using Severn Mill plates. How might the current plastic plates be removed - I am assuming they are not an integral part of the plastic cab moulding?



2) I have seen several examples converted to S7 by having the wheels moved out to the appropriate back-to-back as mentioned in the thread above. Any thoughts on how to dismantle the chassis (and in particular to remove the brakegear) so that this could be done?



Many Thanks



"6971"
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
I have converted a few of these to S7, you do not have to remove the chassis from the body. On the underside of the chassis are what I call axle retainers, the leading one is retained with three screws and lifts away with the spring detail attached, the centre axle is held by the springs detail each held by two screws, the rear axle is retained with the ash pan by three screws.
The brake linkages will prize apart carefully, I use a very small flat screwdriver.
Once the wheels sets are removed the wheels can be pulled off the axles for re-profiling. To do this the centre axle caps must be removed and a wheel puller with a back plate used or there is danger of pulling the tyre from the wheel centre, these Chinese wheels are'nt exactly the best in the world.

You may want to consider spacing washers between wheels and bearings to reduce side play.

Col.
 

JHRL6971

New Member
OK so 1 year later 7415 is converted to S7 and renumbered.

The plates came off easily enough with a sharp chisel shaped blade in an Xacto handle, I slipped blade in along bottom of the numberplates - which are actually brass. New plates are Severn Mill and early BR totem is from Fox Transfers. I simply resprayed the tank sides with Humbrol satin black and then sprayed Humbrol Acrylic satin varnish over the top.

I removed body as per the instructions for fitting decoder etc (ZIMO 645 from Digitrains) and also released the chassis from the running plate by screws at each end. Wheels were then gently moved out to S7 back to back using a worm puller.
P1050304 (2).JPG
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
OK so 1 year later 7415 is converted to S7 and renumbered.

The plates came off easily enough with a sharp chisel shaped blade in an Xacto handle, I slipped blade in along bottom of the numberplates - which are actually brass. New plates are Severn Mill and early BR totem is from Fox Transfers. I simply resprayed the tank sides with Humbrol satin black and then sprayed Humbrol Acrylic satin varnish over the top.

I removed body as per the instructions for fitting decoder etc (ZIMO 645 from Digitrains) and also released the chassis from the running plate by screws at each end. Wheels were then gently moved out to S7 back to back using a worm puller.
View attachment 115960

How do you find the wheels run through S7 pointwork? I'm assuming you didn't get them turned down to S7 standards?

Cheers
Mike
 
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