From Llangunllo to Llanbister Rd.

MikeH_83

Member
Hi Geoff,

I had been following your blog for a long time but I am happy to have found the place where you have continued to post updates. I really like your modelling style and it has helped persuade me to go down a more rural countryside route for my layout. I noticed in a post ages ago that you use S&W couplings? Can I ask how they work on curves for uncoupling? Due to the way my layout must be I will need to have alot of uncoupling happen on curves and it's been a pain to find a coupling method that might work that allows for hands free operation.

Many Thanks

Michael
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Hi Michael,

Thank you for your kind comments, I'm really pleased that you have found some inspiration from my old blog and here on the forum.

How well the S&W performs on curves will depend on what radius your curves are. If they are on the sharp side then you may well encounter problems. In the past I have used the couplings successfully on curves of 3 ft radius without problems. I would suggest that you purchase a trial pack of couplings from Andrew at MSE and experiment, I use the 3mm version myself with MSE, and 5222 models mounting plates.

You might also find this article by Mikkel of interest............. Fitting Sprat & Winkle couplings, along with this one by Ben Alder
Using Sprat & Winkle couplings

Good luck
Geoff
 

MikeH_83

Member
Hi Michael,

Thank you for your kind comments, I'm really pleased that you have found some inspiration from my old blog and here on the forum.

How well the S&W performs on curves will depend on what radius your curves are. If they are on the sharp side then you may well encounter problems. In the past I have used the couplings successfully on curves of 3 ft radius without problems. I would suggest that you purchase a trial pack of couplings from Andrew at MSE and experiment, I use the 3mm version myself with MSE, and 5222 models mounting plates.

You might also find this article by Mikkel of interest............. Fitting Sprat & Winkle couplings, along with this one by Ben Alder
Using Sprat & Winkle couplings

Good luck
Geoff

Thanks Geoff,

I have ordered a trial pack and some of those mounting plates as they look quite easy to use. I think I can limit uncoupling and coupling to a 6ft radius but the access to my fiddleyard is a 2ft radius curve so I need to make sure they will pull around there fine without fouling. Hopefully I can test later this week.

Cheers
 

MikeH_83

Member
The mounting plates do make it easier to fit the couplings Michael, if you want something more discreet then take a look at these, which I am using for all new stock, and also fitting to older wagons. For some reason I couldn't find the website last night
S&W Mountings – 5522 Models. http://www.5522models.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Mounting-plate-for-Sprat.pdf

Geoff

Thanks, Iv'e ordered some of those too. The instructions all look french to me but I am sure I can rig up 2 to just test things :)
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Progress has been slow of late, holidays, dog sitting for friends, and a top secret project all eating into my modelling time. A couple of Parkside 16T mineral wagons await painting, and one of the new Hornby AA15 brake vans is currently being modified. Not that much work needs doing to it, so far I've removed the couplings, and thinned down the chimney, which as you can see from these photos is rather chunky, the moulded lamp irons on the van sides will be removed, and replaced with 'Frogmore' etched ones, then the numbering, and lettering will be changed to suit a Hereford, or Leominster van. Last of all a spot of weathering will be carried out, and then my old Airfix Toad, which date back to the 70's will be retired.

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I'm hoping the grab rails will look finer once they've been toned down, there's no denying that Hornby have produced a lovely model.
The Oxford Rail AA13 is due out by the end of this month so it will be interesting to see how it compares.

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Conversion to 'EM' has not yet been carried out as Hornby still use 24.5 mm axles rather than the standard 26 mm variety. I had hoped to remove the Hornby wheels from the axles, and fit Gibson's in place, alas the diameter of the Hornby axle is slightly less than 2 mm which scuppered that idea. Fortunately the 'EMGS' produces a 24.5 / 2 mm axle which should solve the problem, once the postman delivers them that is.


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A little more work has been done on the layout, in the way of weed, and grass growth. The goods yard, and loop now becoming rather overgrown in places. Still plenty of fibres to add yet, but I'm just adding a little at a time, then sitting back to take the scene in rather than go over the top with things. As a matter of interest the fibres are by Mininatur which have a very subtle and realistic colouring.

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A start has also been made on the point wire pulleys along the platform face. The pulleys are Brassmasters etches, the brackets and guides being made from styrene, and .33 wire. I admit they are on the large side, but the MSE pulleys were too fiddly and small for me to handle, damn difficult to see as well once in situ on the layout.

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The etch on the left is by MSE, see what I mean about the size of the pulleys. On the right is the Brassmaster's offering of baseplates, brackets, and pulleys. Only 14 to solder up and lay between the signal box and signals, I can hardly wait :(

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Once the excess static fibres had been vacuumed up, and the rail tops cleaned 4678 was sent to check that no stray fibres fouled its progress.

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Job completed she then departed light engine in the direction of Titley Junction.
 

Neil

Western Thunderer
Re. the toad's wheels; pretty much all of my EM conversions just had the wheels pulled out on their axles the exceptions being anything by Lima as the flanges were incompatible with EM standards.
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Re. the toad's wheels; pretty much all of my EM conversions just had the wheels pulled out on their axles the exceptions being anything by Lima as the flanges were incompatible with EM standards.

That's one of the first things I tried Neil, but no joy on this one unless a fair amount of material is removed from behind the axle guards. Its possible of course but with replacement axles costing £1.50 for ten, I think that's a better all round option in this case.

I also picked up one of the Hornby horseboxes, funnily enough its axles were slightly larger in diameter and accepted the Gibson wheel with no trouble.

Geoff
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
And I always thought all 4mm rolling stock today standardised on 2mm diameter axles in the same way as European HO.

So did I Dave, I don't buy much RTR stuff but what little I have from the likes of Bachmann uses the 26 mm axle. Which makes conversion to the wider gauges a doodle. But it seems like Hornby are sticking to the old Lima axle length, though their wheels have come a long way from the 'pizza cutters' of old.

One other problem that I should mention about moving the wheels out on the Toad, is that the short axle length, wider wheel tread and flange thickness means that the outer face of the wheel is practically on the pin point of the axle.

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Geoff
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Had all gone to plan I would have completed my new 'Toad' brake van this week, but unfortunately I'm still waiting for certain parts. So I cracked on with the signal wire pulleys, a job that I've been putting off for almost 12 months.

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Here they are ready for a final clean up, and tweak before being chemically blackened.

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Next job is to bed them in, as for the wire you must be joking, which begs the question why bother with the pulleys in the first place?
I must remember to bed that porch in as well, and finish off the fencing.

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I came close to replacing the Class 121 with one of the new Dapol 122's, its an easy enough conversion to EM. But in the end I kept my wallet firmly closed, I'll make do with what I've got.

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More pulleys, I spaced them at a scale 9 yards which I believe is correct, apart from where they switch from being horizontal to vertical at the platform face.

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2538 made a rare appearance on the pick up goods today, I think she looks at home in mid Wales. I'm told she should have the short tender, but the only one available is the Martin Finney kit, which is now available from Brassmaster's. I don't think the old Mainline body, and Comet chassis would have done the tender justice, so she will stay as she is.

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The driver is leaning over the cab side waiting for the ground signal to clear, whilst his mate is nowhere to be seen.

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Finally the evening parcels gets underway, with milk tanks in tow. The horsebox is a recent addition from Hornby, and awaits weathering.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Exquisite. I've got one of those horseboxes to EM - did you stick with the original axles in the end?

Adam
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Exquisite. I've got one of those horseboxes to EM - did you stick with the original axles in the end?

Adam

Thanks Adam,
Yes I did stick with the original axles, unlike the 'Toad' they took the Gibson wheels without any problems. Had to adjust the brake shoes, and I removed the tension lock mounting, so that S&W couplings and mounts could be fitted. Its a lovely little model in my opinion, and a steal for the price asked.

Geoff
 
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puck.

New Member
Hi Geoff. The signal wire wheels you're using are not for the wire run but direction change; e.g. crossing from one side of track to the other. The ones for wire run are mounted on posts (wooden or metal tube, at least they are on Southern) at 9 yards apart.
Loving your layout thread.
Regards
Andy
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Lovely work on the signal wire pulleys, Geoff. Very clean soldering. How long did each one take to get to that stage, please?

Thanks Tim, I didn't really time myself, and assembled them as a batch, so its hard to say. However once I had cleaned the fret, cut the components out, folded the brackets, and wheels, then opened up the base plates to accept .033 wire. It only took a minute or two to solder each one up.

Small correction please. They are signal wire wheels not pulleys.....:thumbs:

My mistake Chris, they are indeed listed as wheels on Brassmasters website, but pulleys here which I used as a reference, well that's my excuse :) track details

Hi Geoff. The signal wire wheels you're using are not for the wire run but direction change; e.g. crossing from one side of track to the other. The ones for wire run are mounted on posts (wooden or metal tube, at least they are on Southern) at 9 yards apart.
Loving your layout thread.
Regards
Andy

Thanks Andy, Having seen the wheels mounted on posts as you describe, I did wonder if I had got things right ? Looks like its back to the drawing board, and a case of making my own posts etc, etc. As to the best of my knowledge there are no etches, or castings available.
Geoff
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
I've just removed the signal wire wheels apart from those at the foot of the signal box, and signals which I assume to be correct. I then looked at ways of producing a post mounted wheel, for my first attempt I modified one of the Brassmasters brackets by folding it double to create a post. The wheel was then soldered to a piece of wire, resulting in this...........

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As it stands the wheel is far too big, but might look better once its blackened and painted. I then tried a wheel from the MSE etch, but at only 2mm diameter it was not only a pain to assemble, but could hardly be seen at normal viewing distance. So now I'm beginning to wonder if its worth installing the damn things in 4mm scale? However a trawl of the internet has come up with a solution, for Ambis engineering do some components for posts, and wheels.

Anyway here's a few more photos that didn't make the cut yesterday.....

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Geoff
 
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