LSWR Terrier No 734 4mm scale

Discussion in 'Workbenches, including workshop techniques.' started by Pushpull33, 26 December 2018.

  1. Pushpull33

    Pushpull33 Active Member

    I thought it was time i posted something other than in the 'Cameo Competition' section. Some time ago i purchased an LSWR Terrier, an old Ks white metal kit that somebody had previously built. It was a none runner but the painting and lining on the body was superbly done. The whole kit looked very well put together. I could perhaps argue that the green is a shade on the light side but not letting myself be put off by this, i thought it could become part of a future layout. (i also have a Jidenco H13 to build).

    No 734 is one of a pair bought by the LSWR in 1903 to work the Lyme Regis branch.
    I would love to know who painted her because she looks stunning.
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    On further inspection the chassis left a lot to be desired, things have moved on somewhat since she was built. A very thick framed brass chassis with Two of the bearing holes completely worn away, a huge X04 motor and picks ups on only the outer most axle, no back head or cab floor.
    Remembering that Comet (that was, now Wizard) produced a Chassis kit for the Terrier, realy, a replacement for the Hornby model, i wondered if it could be adapted as a replacement for this model.

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    Chassis kit duly ordered and a chat to Chris Gibbon at High Level, a gearbox and motor were also duly ordered. Now me being me and always up for a challenge, i thought i would have a go at some sort of compensation. During the conversation with Chris, he sent me some of his wonderful Hornblocks.
    I have to stress that this is new to me so i thought this might be a good place to start.
    Those that know me are aware that i have built a few locos in my time but this was a whole new ball game for me, I mean, how difficult could it be!

    This is them!

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    Well, that wasn't to difficult was it?
    The next problem to overcome was, we are going to have to split the connecting rods aren't we. Something else i haven't done before. You will gather from my excercises that i am not one for the tried and tested methods and tend to come up with some perhaps rather unorthodox ways of doing things.
    I can hear you shouting at the screen.
    Reading the instructions from comet, yes it does happen occasionally, it told you where to cut, HELPFUL.
    Of course, we need to make sure they are kept at the same length and are both the same, also noting that the Knuckle needs to be pointing to the front of the loco.
    A piece of ply came in handy for this.

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    Knuckles duly drilled and riveted. all going good so far.

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    We have Two coupling rods. I have resoldered the top one as you can see the top and bottom are slightly off. Its amazing what you see in a photo.

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    Time to turn to the chassis. Can you use the 'Pine Road chassis jig' to set up Hornblocks?, answer is, yes you can. Using the piece of ply i made up earlier for the con rods, this is how it looks.
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    It all looks good so far and all seems to line up.

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    Final photo for tonight. We have a problem, because from hear on its all new to me, how are we going to make it spring. The original idea of a rocker centrally mounted between the Two front Axles has gone out of the window as there is a great big hole in the way. I have a plan baldrick, if this actually ever runs i will be amazed but hey, you have to have a go, doesn't one.

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    As far as it goes at the moment until i have time for another play.
     
    Rob Pulham, chrisb, 3 LINK and 3 others like this.
  2. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

    Agreed the paint job does look very good. Not sure about the number and lettering on the tanks but the number on the front buffer beam appears to be hand painted and not transfers - in which case extremely impressive.

    The one plus point I would say for the original chassis is that they appeared to use steel for the rods. Sorry but it's a pet soapbox for me - people seem to stress out over the exact loco colour but are quite content with nickel rods which to my view are nothing like steel coloured rods. :confused:
     
  3. Overseer

    Overseer Western Thunderer

    While I agree with Adrian that only steel looks like clean, polished steel rods the real thing rarely had clean polished rods. I think nickel silver can look perfectly acceptable for oily, in service coupling rods with a bit of weathering.

    Are the leading horn guides intentionally installed at an angle from vertical? If not I suggest straightening them to vertical to avoid binding of the rods when the axle moves from the central position. It is easy to do with the frames assembled, just find a spring or wind one from a piece of wire and place over the axle then heat and rotate the horn guides (with the jig axles and coupling rods making sure the centres are maintained).
     
  4. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    I'd agree with Fraser (Overseer) on the hornguides. They really should be vertical. Where is the compensation beam going? Will you be using the brake hanger holes for the beam pivot (it's in just about the right place and there isn't a lot of frame).

    A couple of points to bear in mind with the Comet chassis from my experience with it which might or might not bother you.

    1. The brakeshoes supplied are significantly overscale. Wizard Models now do the etch of loco brakeshoes from Mainly Trains which include hangers and shoes suitable for a Terrier; these are better. MT182: SR Loco Brake Shoes & Hangers (7 sets) - Wizard Models Limited
    2. The same goes for the brake pull rods and this might well be a problem if you're using Gibson wheels: clearance at the back end for the read crankpins is very limited (I used pull rods from the Branchlines; kit on mine); Romfords might well be even more ticklish.
    3. The rods will also benefit form being dressed as those on a real Terrier are delicate: Comet's are chunky.

    Adam
     
  5. Threadmark: Lswr terrier
    Pushpull33

    Pushpull33 Active Member

    Thanks guys. Any advice greatly received.
    The connecting rods will be painted/weathered, i'm not one for shinny rods. As Adam has mentioned, i have a set of the Wizard models SR brake shoes and they do look a lot finner. I was a bit concerned about fitting the comet ones, they look big and bulky and would i get enough clearance to allow up and down movement between wheel and brake shoe.

    I am using romford wheels and axles. eek!

    That was my plan Adam, to use the break hanger holes for the beam, a bit of playing around but i think it could work. As you say, there isn't a lot of frame.

    Regarding the Hornblock guides being vertical i understand that they probably should be, as this is new to me, with axle and connecting rods fitted there is no interruption in movement they seem to want to sit slightly off vertical. As the rear axle is the fixed point the chassis would move up and down in a slight arch type fashion. I take your point tho Fraser as that isn't quite how it would work, i am learning. Of course they would rock between the centre point of the Two front axle. I understand your idea of a spring on the axles between the hornblocks.

    Thanks again guys.
    Colin
     
  6. AJC

    AJC Western Thunderer

    Hi Colin,

    Having just turner my model of Brighton Works upside down, there's a only a couple of mm difference between the brake hanger and the mid point of the wheelbase which is where I put mine. I can't think that this would make a great deal of difference as the rear axle is driven and the amount of travel required. Good luck!

    Adam
     
    simond likes this.
  7. Pushpull33

    Pushpull33 Active Member

    Thanks Adam for taking the time to check. I couldn't see any other way of doing the pivot point so sounds like a plan. I have just straighten up the Hornblock guides as well.
    Colin
     
    AJC likes this.