Making Trees

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Hi Chaps,
Well here we go with what I hope will be an interesting topic, hopefully some of you here on the forum will chip in with your own ideas so we can all learn something new.
Trees must be about the most difficult items to model and over the years I have tried several methods from twigs covered in foam, to dried Yarrow stems bound together and dressed with various scatters

As previously mentioned in Gardeners World on this very forum,  Paul Marshall- Potter first drew my attention to using  C & L plastic mouldings and sea moss together to make trees in an article he wrote for The Railway Modeller.

So first a word about the materials, the C & L plastic mouldings come in four sections, which with a little imagination can be used in a variety of ways to produce different shaped trees. The components come as flat mouldings and the branches need to be bent and twisted to form the shape you require. This can be done by using a hairdryer to gently soften the plastic or holding them with a pair of pliers and dunking them in hot water.
Once you are happy with the shape the parts can be joined together with a solvent such as Plastruct.
Brian Lewis has in the past given me permission to use his instruction sheet and you will be able to view it in the photo sequence which will follow.

Now a quick word about sea moss, as you will know this is a plant and my head gardener had the same trouble as Neils when she tried to cultivate some for me. So I bought a "Forest in a Box" with a view to making trees quick and easily, if only life was that simple. An awful lot of the stems were bent and had to be straightened out. This is done by holding the stems over a steaming pan or kettle and gently shaping them so they can be used. To put it mildly I was not happy with the product or the results I achieved, and think the sea moss is best used in the background, closely grouped together or as saplings and small bushes. So to cut a long story short I packed the plants away and forgot about them.


Putting the trees on hold I continued to build the layout until I read Pauls article, to be honest I didn't think it would work but having all the materials decided to give it a try.
So lets crack on and see some photos, the first of which shows the C & L instruction sheet and components. You will see they suggest using teased out horsehair for making the canopy and the results can be good.
Next we have from left to right , a basic small sea moss tree, this is just three stems bound together and the trunk covered in bark mix.
In the centre we have a plastic trunk with sea moss branches attached. You can drill holes in the plastic for the stems or glue them on top, the joints will be hidden beneath bark mix.  A top tip is to use an activator with the cyano otherwise you will take all day waiting for the cyano to grip.
Last of all is an assembled tree trunk in the nude, this scales out at 46 feet high in 4mm scale.

The next photo shows the tree with bark mix applied awaiting paint and finally the tree dressed but not yet trimmed. Then in true Blue Peter style, here is one I made last week !
To be continued...................
Geoff


Hi sorry about the problems you might have had viewing the photos, I got disconnected twice whilst uploading them.
 

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Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Interesting stuff Geoff, I will have to a have a go at this around the terminus of my line, but I will need to sort out some trunks for larger 7mm trees, the C&L 4mm ones are very effective in that scale .
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Phill Dyson said:
Interesting stuff Geoff, I will have to a have a go at this around the terminus of my line, but I will need to sort out some trunks for larger 7mm trees, the C&L 4mm ones are very effective in that scale .

Hi Phill,
It is possible to increase the size of the mouldings with modelling clay, which might allow you to model the smaller species of tree.


Today a little more progress has been made, the first application of foliage was applied with the tree upside down and then the right side up. For this I used the foliage made by Anita Decor and applied it with their special glue.  This appears to be a well watered PVA but smells of copydex, beat that if you can ! Anyway a quantity is poured into a container large enough to dunk the tree in and then the foliage is applied.  A lighter foliage is then applied to the top surfaces which should give an appearance of depth.
All the material which falls off the tree is applied to small scraps of sea moss, these will later be used to fill in bald patches on the tree and if any are left over they are ideal for small bushes and shrubs.
The following photo sequence shows the tree upside down, some foliage will fall onto the branches and trunk but can be easily removed, however a little can be left to represent growth.
The second shot shows some how the waste foliage has been used to make small clumps as mentioned previously.
Next we see the tree trimmed and more or less complete, extra foliage has been applied with PVA and hairspray taking care to try and maintain an open appearance to the tree.

Painting has been carried out with a mix of colours, these being Paynes Black, Titanium White, Burnt Umber and Sap Green. the tree is first painted a light silvery grey by mixing the black and white. I find it best to paint one half of the trunk slighty darker so as to give a little shadow to the edges. Next a little green and brown is mixed up to give a muddy greenish shade, this is brushed under the boughs and around the bottom of the trunk. You only need a little hint of this, to complete the job a slight greenish grey wash can be applied.

Next photo shows the completed tree in it's new home, it has been secured to the layout by drilling the plastic trunk and glueing a small piece of rail into it. The tree is then pushed into the landscape, in this case long grass covers the roots and so they are not modelled. Should roots be required then I use waste from the plastic trunks to represent them and scatter dried tea leaves around the base. The tree took around three hours to make but I find it quicker if not boring to batch build.

Finally I have started a sea moss tree, this is a copy of one across the road which I see every day. The main trunk is a wooden skewer raided from the kitchen. Pieces of sea moss have been attached with soft wire and the whole lot covered in PVA and then modelling clay, once this has set another piece of sea moss will be added.

More to follow.........
Geoff
 

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Geoff

Western Thunderer
Making Trees

Glad you are finding this tutorial useful chaps, but we aren't finished yet !
In my last entry on this thread I had started to build up a sea moss trunk using modelling clay. As you can see from the following photos extra pieces have been grafted onto the trunk then the whole lot covered in clay. This in turn has been shaped and carved to add texture and whatnot, painting being carried out in the same way as before.

The foliage this time is all by Carrs and uses the two shades of Autumn leaves, darker to the bottom and the lighter one with hints of yellow to the top. Once the tree is dry it will be placed on the layout near the cattle pens as a companion for the tree already there. The last photo shows the C & L based tree from across the goods yard, it's the one on the left.
You will probably find that your completed tree will have one really good side from which to view it or might strike lucky and find it looks good from all directions. Those that don't quite make the cut can be relegated to the rear of the layout or arranged in a group to hide their shortcomings, so don't bin your first efforts. In total I would say these two trees have taken around 4-5 hours of my time including taking the photos.

Here endeth this lesson..........well for now because I have come full circle and have some new ideas. One of them is to go back to basics and use twigs as Neil did, only I've been thinking why not cover them in modelling clay ?
This might be plain stupid or could be the answer for you guys who model in 7mm scale or upwards, so next time I take the family hound for walkies I will be looking for suitable twigs !!
In closing thanks for those of you who have posted up those excellent links to other tree making and scenic sites in "Gardening World"

Geoff
 

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Captain Kernow

Western Thunderer
This is a truely inspirational thread, Geoff, not only are your trees superb, but I've only just noticed the point rodding and detector in one of your photos - brilliant!  :thumbs:
 

Captain Kernow

Western Thunderer
If I may, I'd also like to offer a tip of my own, for portable/exhibition layouts, where trees have to be removed for transport.

I used to find that simply drilling a hole in the landscape meant that the tree wobbled to an unacceptable degree during a show, so I arrived at a solution whereby I glued a piece of brass tube firmly into the landscape to take the tree.

The tree in turn had a piece of matching brass rod glued into it's base (or formed as part of the tree, if it was scratchbuilt from a wire armature). This then sits neatly in the landscape and doesn't wobble around if the layout moves etc.

For transport, I have constructed both wooden and card boxes for my trees, which all have brass tubes set into the base, and the trees stand vertically in the box for transport, with the lid on to keep the tree from being damaged.

I'd post a diagram (which I have prepared as a j-peg), but I can't seem to work out how to do that.....sorry  :(
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Thanks for that Tim, not being one to make an exhibition of myself I just make do with a simple peg but have used your idea for signals.
As for the detector bar it was installed over five years ago when tracklaying first commenced, you are the first one to mention it

Cheers,
Geoff
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Thanks to both the Captain for his top tip and to the Guv'nor for uploading the sketch. Making trees removable in this manner will save a lot of damage even on home based layouts.

Geoff
 
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