7mm Along the lines of an U.S. O Scale loft layout... (previously 'making U.S. track & switches')

Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
A New Thread for this subject now, so Mickoo can have his own Thread back... Posted by Jordan :oops:

Jordan said:
... the blurb mentions hand-made switches (that's 'points' in english )
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Some of us understand "switches" - pity those over the pond mean something else :rolleyes: .

In passing Jordan, what do the Americans call the moving rails that are known as "switches" over here?
 
Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
A darkened room beckons :confused: .
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It ain't called The Dark Side for nothing..... :)) :) ;)

I've received a parcel today from the US of some highly-detailed cast parts for hand-laid switches. I may have to relinquish my Reserved Seat at the Back soon, & join you track maniacs enthusiasts up at the Front for a while.... :eek: :confused: :)
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Jordan said:
I've received a parcel today from the US of some highly-detailed cast parts for hand-laid switches. I may have to relinquish my Reserved Seat at the Back soon, & join you track enthusiasts up at the Front for a while.... :eek: :confused: :)
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Please do, let the (p) way be with you.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Jordan said:
It ain't called The Dark Side for nothing..... :)) :) ;)

I've received a parcel today from the US of some highly-detailed cast parts for hand-laid switches. I may have to relinquish my Reserved Seat at the Back soon, & join you track maniacs enthusiasts up at the Front for a while.... :eek: :confused: :)
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Could you care to expand what and where you got them from? I may also need to source a supply of US style chairs with spikes if possible.
 
Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Could you care to expand what and where you got them from? I may also need to source a supply of US style chairs with spikes if possible.
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It's a bit convoluted.... the items are from "Right-O-Way", but Lou Cross the proprietor isn't on the Internet, so I asked very nicely the chaps at http://www.protocraft.com/ if they would act as intermediaries for me, as they usually only do P:48 stuff, & they very graciously did! This meant I could pay via Paypal, for one thing. :)
Someone's blog here describes Right-o-way products - http://chris-train-layout.blogspot.co.uk/p/track-components-from-right-o-way.html?m=1
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I see Protocraft now stock on line what looks like most of Right-O-Way crossing components?

http://www.protocraft.com/category....32d155a05-418C00DA-BEC1-E88B-A40FBCBF742A2734

Peco make Code 143 rail (IL 7FB), but special order by the look of things and they do track spikes (IL 13)

Marcway also does Code 148 track which looks more readily available.

Though for switching and local industries I think Code 124 might be better.

Just need to source some chair plates...easily, or failing that get PDH to etch some up from some CAD art work in 22/28 thou" NS, this being a pure flat plate as opposed to the ones with ribs to position the rail.
Img_8491.jpg

Anyway enough digression, can we expect to see you heading toward P48 now Jordan;)
 
Overseer

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Mickoo

For code 124 fb rail it might be easier for you to get some from Karlgarin Models in Chelmsford, they do very nice code 125 flat bottom rail (and O scale code 100 and 82 rails). I have both right-o-way and Karlgarin rail and they are difficult to tell apart.

Are the flat sleeper plates only for turnouts? Most sleeper plates (tie plates) are hot rolled with a 1 in 20 slope to tilt the rail.
 
Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Anyway enough digression, can we expect to see you heading toward P48 now Jordan;)
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Protocraft told me they supply Right-o-way products; they don't actually stock them.
I've got Code 124FB from Marcway, & the Peco spikes (#IL13) from my local model shop. The Code 124 will be my "main", the spurs will be Code 100 (salvaged from my HO track).
I got some Grandt Line tie plates so I knew the sizes; I plan to cut most of mine from thick brown paper... a lot cheaper, & like anyone who ever might see the layout is going to check every single tie plate for accuracy.... :rolleyes:

Finally no, no P:48 for me. Why? After all, it has been said that if you go to the trouble of hand-laid track, then why lay it to the wrong gauge? Well my answer is that that's all well & good, if it was just the track gauge involved. Having to change every single wheelset, & strictly speaking narrow every truck & sideframe, are major expenses and effort I can do without, personally speaking
So I'll stick with standard O & get enough of the effect I want... which of course is rickety, run-down track that may - or may not - be in gauge anyway :) ...... I don't think P:48 tolerances could give me that.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Jordan said:
I got some Grandt Line tie plates so I knew the sizes; I plan to cut most of mine from thick brown paper...
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What about using 0.2mm or 0.3mm PCB as can be obtained from C&L? Apart from the fact that you can solder to the PCB I would expect that PCB is easier than brown paper to glue to a tie (or at least, the pcb is not going to ruck up). If you want to try I can send you some...
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Overseer said:
Mickoo

For code 124 fb rail it might be easier for you to get some from Karlgarin Models in Chelmsford, they do very nice code 125 flat bottom rail (and O scale code 100 and 82 rails). I have both right-o-way and Karlgarin rail and they are difficult to tell apart.

Are the flat sleeper plates only for turnouts? Most sleeper plates (tie plates) are hot rolled with a 1 in 20 slope to tilt the rail.
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I found a data sheet for themhttp://www.karlgarin.com/rail_flatbottom_sizes.pdf and with a name like that assumed they'd be US or Aussie, turns out they're in the Chelmsford just down the road from me :thumbs:

Already have 6 yrds of Code 100 salvaged from a job lot of rail off Ebay, enough to get started so only Code 125 for the mains.

I only found flat tie plates on switches, the rest were ribbed.
Image1.jpg
The 2nd from the left being a narrow 4 hole plate sunken into a rotting tie, the rest being wider 8 hole plates, just had a flick through my US RAW images and found hundreds not yet processed:eek: yet still have the feeling I should of taken more:( Note also the anti creep clips, this being the lead track outside 'Rachels' of bar top..less and steak bar fame (yes it was hard to live that down to the family) where double stack trains of 6,000+ ton are started from.

Jordan, ahh, misread your comments, thought that it had all been done behind closed doors by envoy ;) Don't forget to leave some of your pins sticking proud, I reckon nearly 20% of the rail I saw off the mains had the tie pins sticking up:cool:

Know what you mean re P48, if starting from new then it's maybe viable, but to alter existing it becomes prohibitive. Personally I'll probably just go with O fine or what ever gauge is the norm but use finer rims and narrower check rails and crossings, I already have S7 to satisfy my 'scale' track pedant, I don't need another:rolleyes: I also want quite a bit of street track or at least heavily :shit: covered so will get rid of some of a box of PECO CODE 124 BH flexitrack that way, basically anywhere where the ties are all but totally covered.

Just found Grandt line tie plates, look the part and will probably do for me for the most visual parts.

Anyways, Y'all can guess which 'interest' bubble is making a near workbench orbit:D
 
Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
I would expect that PCB is easier than brown paper to glue to a tie (or at least, the pcb is not going to ruck up).
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I wrote 'thick brown paper' but probably should have put "thin brown card" instead, probably a bit stronger than is visualised.
Progress is going to be slow on this. First up I've been working on making one of these for Code 100...
IMG_1574_zps2u99std8.jpg
A "Self Guarding Frog", quite strange to UK eyes, to me it almost looks like a "backwards" frog - the wing rails face the other way to normal. This type of frog means there are no guard rails fitted next to the stock rails at the relevant places.
Due to only working to normal O scale standards, my frog won't look as good as this; flangeways will obviously be wider & deeper, but I'm trying to get the general impression... you can take a Modeller from the Back of the Class, but can you take the Back of the Class out of a Modeller..??!!?? :confused: :) :oops:
 
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