7mm MK1 Brake Goods

adrian

Flying Squad
Still with my wife but not with the TVR, what a beast in the dry though.

Only allowed malt whisky occasionally but if you are into it I can thoroughly recommend a wonderful book by Iain Banks called 'Raw Spirit'.

Off topic I know, but I started it and I don't mind, hope nobody else does
My neighbour has an M-series TVR (3000M I think) - I hear it warming up regularly in his garage but it only gets out infrequently and never in the wet.

Don't mind the thread drift at all - as we say in the introduction as long as it's ok with the original poster then drift away.

I'd never really considered getting Raw Spirit, I have all his fiction books, but never really considered this being non-fiction. I shall look it up, thanks.
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
I second the Raw Spirit recommendation, it is a good read while being educational. It helps if you appreciate Land Rovers and have driven some of the fantastic highland roads. I have only driven the Applecross road in a couple of hire cars, a Renault 5 and, well, a Land Rover Defender 90 so haven't had the full experience, but have seen the views in bright sunshine in both summer and midwinter. It was lucky Iain Banks wrote Raw Spirit when he did as he had a change of heart about driving fast and sold his tweaked Landy and collection of Porches a year or two before being diagnosed with cancer. Raw Spirit would have had less spirit if the tour had been done in a Prius.

Sorry for rambling.
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
I would also recommend to others of this persuasion to watch 'Angels Share' a film directed by Ken Loach a few years ago. Difficult to get into but wonderfully uplifting if you stick the course.

Anyway back to where we should be. DSC_0005_01.JPG
These are the remaining under floor parts, stuff up the top sub assemblies, the long brass bit soldered to the floor to the correct length to fit some of the brake gear to the right.
DSC_0007_01.JPG Some of this now fitted, the screw thread should pass all the way through the small etching on the right I think so will add a bit of BA screw thread. This part of the assembly is not required on non brake vehicles.
DSC_0004_01.JPG
Not a great photo but the dynamo in place. I am not sure what the rod pointing left, which is connected to the dynamo pivot rod is for. Maybe something to damp the swing motion of the dynamo, others with more knowledge may help here.

DSC_0008_01.JPG

Some idea of how things (temporarily placed) may look if I have everything in the right place.

Vacuum cylinders and associated stuff next.

Ken
 

Bill Campbell

Western Thunderer
Hi Ken

Easybuild have a number of pictures of Mk1 underframes on their CD that has the kit instructions.

The "rod" appears to be the connection for the electrical cables.

Regards.
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Hi Ken

Easybuild have a number of pictures of Mk1 underframes on their CD that has the kit instructions.

The "rod" appears to be the connection for the electrical cables.

Regards.

The u shaped piece coming from the side of the dynamo carries the electrical cables. The 'rod' is fixed to the axle on which the dynamo pivots and the small bracket on the underframe, I was wondering if it acted as some sort of damper to stop uncontrolled swinging of the dynamo.

Ken
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Ken,
It was pointed out to me a little while ago that on a BG the battery boxes are not staggered, but are at the same end.

Hope this helps

Thanks for that, I'll check photos when fitting permanently, and maybe says in the instructions somewhere but haven't found anything definitive so far. Bob-65B will probably know.

I wish I could get my hands on a copy of the Keith Parkin book.

Ken
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
Ken,

Mth has the correct arrangement - which should have the two battery boxes in the same "bay" as each other but of course on opposite sides - in your photo the nearest battery box should be moved one bay to the right and the regulator and distribution fuse box moved over diagonally to the presently unused bay diagonally opposite on the other side. If I can find some time I'll try and dig out an arrangement drawing....

The rod attached to the bracket on the bottom longitudinal and to the dynamo suspension bracket was used as a tension screw to alter the angle of the dynamo increasing or decreasing the force pulling the dynamo belt into tension. Too much and it could ruin the dynamo bearings, too little and the belt could slip.
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Ken,

Mth has the correct arrangement - which should have the two battery boxes in the same "bay" as each other but of course on opposite sides - in your photo the nearest battery box should be moved one bay to the right and the regulator and distribution fuse box moved over diagonally to the presently unused bay diagonally opposite on the other side. If I can find some time I'll try and dig out an arrangement drawing....

The rod attached to the bracket on the bottom longitudinal and to the dynamo suspension bracket was used as a tension screw to alter the angle of the dynamo increasing or decreasing the force pulling the dynamo belt into tension. Too much and it could ruin the dynamo bearings, too little and the belt could slip.

Many thanks Bob, as always a wonderful mine of information.

Ken
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
DSC_0009_01.JPG

Again stuff temporarily in place (with battery boxes in the correct position this time, I hope). It looks like the emergency lighting socket castings that sit between the battery box and electrical thingy with the lovely etched lettering must fit bang on the centre line of the cross brace. But I cannot find any photos to confirm this.

Does anyone know?

Ken
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Thank you Bob for a really interesting photo... damn, more questions.

The prototype BG appears to be one built with non-equalised bogie brake gear (shape of V-hangers) and yet now has B4 bogies. I cannot see any vacuum cylinders so I feel that this has to be a pure air-brake vehicle and with the air brake cylinders above the brake cross-shaft (rather than below on other air-brake Mk.1s featured previously on WT).

Sure would like to see just what levers are (or where) on that cross-shaft.

Bob, how common is the brake arrangement shown in the photo? Would BR Works have produced a new cross-shaft for this linkage?

regards, Graham
 

demu1037

Western Thunderer
Thank you Bob for a really interesting photo... damn, more questions.

The prototype BG appears to be one built with non-equalised bogie brake gear (shape of V-hangers) and yet now has B4 bogies. I cannot see any vacuum cylinders so I feel that this has to be a pure air-brake vehicle and with the air brake cylinders above the brake cross-shaft (rather than below on other air-brake Mk.1s featured previously on WT).

Sure would like to see just what levers are (or where) on that cross-shaft.

Bob, how common is the brake arrangement shown in the photo? Would BR Works have produced a new cross-shaft for this linkage?

regards, Graham

Graham,
look at the next fhoto in that flikr set, all is revealed......
Andy
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
It's a bloomin' minefield isn't it. The pictures show the positions of the lighting sockets but then show a lot of other stuff. which may or may not be relevant. Mine is a vacuum only braked vehicle with the equaliser system.

Thanks to everyone for their assistance.

Ken
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Sorry it's me again,

Bob, if I fit the socket as shown in the photo the one sited directly opposite on the other side is pretty much hard up against the vacuum cylinder bracket. Is that right? As Graham says seems to be air braked only

Also the regulator in the kit has a bevelled top front edge unlike that in the photo. I have double checked it is the right way up in the instructions so maybe the one in the photo is a newer version.

You can certainly learn a lot of information with which to bore people at parties on this website.

Ken
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
BG0054.JPG BG0055.JPG
Fitted everything on the underframe now but for the electrical socket boxes, I'll come back to them later. Generally very happy with how it all looks (in the second photo I can see the regulator case isn't sitting down in the cradle as it should). I feel the diameter of the springs for the brake equaliser system is too large and may, or may not, change them later, nothing to hand at the moment.

Tomorrow I'll crack on with the buffer beams.

Ken
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Still cracking on with the buffer beams (although 'cracking' was optimistic as the rest of life getting in the way) and was hoping to have them finished for the S7 Crediton meeting on Saturday and photos here. Objective not achieved and made worse by one of the fine NS vacuum hose connection etchings pinging off into the distance when trying to fit it last night. I heard it land but need time in daylight to find which won't be until the weekend.

More importantly I am starting to consider the body and two things come to mind. First, having read Heathers' thread several times, I am thinking that I should test fit the roof to the inner ends using Evostick on a few of the tabs and then temporarily bolt the whole lot, together with the outer ends, to check everything is true before soldering, and cut a rod of suitable diameter to adjust roof curvature to fit the body sides (there is a slight kink on one edge of mine).

Secondly regarding the outer ends, like Heather, I am tempted to fit many of the details before soldering to the sides of the main body shell. Simon Varnam has fitted the ends before adding details but I prefer doing this stuff on the flat.

Look forward to any suggestions,

Ken
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Ken -

Is that not exactly what we suggest in the instructions? - not that anyone seems to read them!

DJP

Hello David,

This is mostly a male hobby and, as everyone knows, real men never read manuals and instructions.

Seriously though, I do read the instructions carefully, and they do suggest this method (but later in the build), and I know the instructions only suggest a build order. I was thinking of carrying out this part of the construction first, before any detailing. So I was only canvassing for comments and potential pitfalls on my potential build order from other builders of these kits.

I spent an hour this morning looking for, and failing to find, the vacuum hose connector etched item I lost. I did, though, find several other small parts I had lost previously; it pays not to vacuum too often! But I then found I had a spare one from the tank wagon kit so all is well.

Ken
 
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