Mk1 Resources And Parts

Railwaymaniac

Railwaymaniac

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
My earlier post no. #42...
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No problem, Dog Star, you can be first in the queue if you want - but isn't that the position most likely to get trampled in the rush? ? ? ?
:eek: :D :D

And I'm sure the Santa Guv'nor will have goodies in his sack for all of us if we're good. . . :thumbs:

Ian
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
What adhesives have WT readers used for securing brass etches to ABS?

What works? What does not work?

regards, Graham
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Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-8&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=7

Is what I use for fitting things like etched brass grilles, fan hatches and various other gubbins to my HO stuff when I have need to detail up. Works very well - it's effectively a water-based contact adhesive.

My suggested method for fixing would be to slop it on the back of the window frame and then have a quick blow through from the front. Leave it to dry. Align on model, press down with something firm (this might be anything from a rubber eraser to a tooling block -as the application demands).

And that's pretty much it!

Steph
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive
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In the light of "The Big Question", Steph's post is a timely reminder as to why WT is a necessary "tool" on the workbench... ask a question and an answer appears from left field.

Steph Dale said:
My suggested method for fixing would be to slop it on the back of the window frame and then have a quick blow through from the front...
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Steph - please feel free to expand on this. I expect that most of us are pretty good at slopping stuff around... the next bit might suffer from an overdose of imagination.

regards, Graham
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
Steph - please feel free to expand on this. I expect that most of us are pretty good at slopping stuff around... the next bit might suffer from an overdose of imagination.
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Ahem, yes, sorry...

When fitting fine mesh grilles (such as these: http://www.planomodelproducts.com/14860.html or even these: http://www.planomodelproducts.com/14830.html) the problem is that it doesn't matter how carefull I am, I always end up with gunk actually caught in the grille. It's a pain to get out by any conventional means and very nearly put me off using the stuff. A chap on a US-based diesel detailing forum suggested that all you need to do is carefully blow through from the front, the mesh will clear and you'll get Metal Foil Adhesive all over your workbench (or, perhaps the piece of kitchen roll you were holding up behind the grille).

The part can then be left butter-side-up (as 'twere) and applied to the model once the adhesive has gone off.

The blow-clear stage means that the front of your part will now be largely clear of Metal Foil Adhesive and won't stick to the surface you're leaving the part on while the glue dries. And in my case, it means I've got lovely see-through mesh on the radiators of my Geeps...

Steph
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
All is now clear (free from etc.. ).

I followed the links above... and am bound to ask - why did you chose to use the Metal Foil Adhesive when the product which is recommended in the links is Micro Bond?

regards, Graham
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
I followed the links above... and am bound to ask - why did you chose to use the Metal Foil Adhesive when the product which is recommended in the links is Micro Bond?
regards, Graham
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Graham,

Same reason as you - didn't think Cyano was actually the right answer.
Of the other two answers suggested by Plano; I've never seen Barge over here, but looking at the way the guys use it I suspect it's close to Dunlop Thixofix, while canopy adhesive (such as Microscale's Crystal Clear) didn't seem to offer quite the right combination of easy clean up and necessary bond strength.

Oh - one other thing I'd forgotten to mention, but which will help; rub down the backs of the window frames with emery paper - I usually use 250 or 400 grit wrapped round a rubber eraser when I prepare a grille for fixing. Needless to say (?) it's easier to do while they're still attached to the fret...

Steph
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Cynric, if you are a current member of the S7 Group, then the Newsletter for May 2012, No. 88, page 4, summarise the differences in Vac Cyl placement and V-hanger style (symmetric as per EZB / JLTRT and assymetric as per only JLTRT). Maybe our esteemed Editor can grant permission to reproduce the relevant page here?

Similarly, HMRS MK.1s Supplement page 29 has pictures with details.

regards, Graham
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
[revised suggestions]

If you are open to suggestions...
[a] there seems to be several styles of v-hangers for the vac-cyl cross-shaft (dependent upon the type of bogie);
[c] washers to thicken the pivot hole in the v-hangers (some JLTRT etches have this feature - EZB does not);
[d] dimension details plate fitted to the end of the body, (HMRS Mk.1 Supplement, pg.18).

Re the washers... each undeframe requires eight per, so make that a dozen to allow for the ping factor.

thank you, Graham
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
As it stands now I will do 3 tools. One 18thou tool for the inner bogie, one for the truss and misc parts, and one 8thou tool for window frames and fine details such as the plates you mention.
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Dikitriki said:
Hmmmm........all you need now is some etched sides, a roof, a few castings........

The WT multimedia Mk1 kit. Ta daa
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If i wanted to get there, I wouldnt start from here :cool: I just seem to have drifted into this, but you never know there might be some extra coaches for Heyside....... did have Restaurant cars on trains up norf? :D
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Cynric,

I have checked the EZB parts against the details of the real thing (PM to you).... results as below:-

* levers for brake pull-rods to bogie are good;
* lever for vacuum cylinder is either not provided or too short / too thin / wrong format;
* symmetric V-hanger is too wide in the legs;
* asymmetric V-hanger not provided;
* vacuum cylinder trunnions are part of vacuum cylinder.

The symmetric V-hanger is about 0.45mm too wide across each leg, this might come down when the cusp is removed.

The trunnions are cast integral with the Vac-Cyl and arranged for the cylinder to be "horizontal" - this is fine for a carriage with the brakes hard-on, probably look wrong for a carriage which is meant to be brakes-off. If you can include this part on an etch then that will be nice.

In checking the EZB instructions to understand how the brake cross-shaft is built up... the photo of the etch components (dated 2011)... includes only asymmetric V-hangers (!!!!) and a longer lever for the vac-cyl (see note above, still wrong form). I shall have to see what etches are provided in the other kits that we bought.

The vac-cyl levers in the EZB kit is made by using two separate etches to form "one lever" with the two parts separated by the width of the vac-cyl pull rod. - this is what I have described here as "wrong form". Hence the parts shown on the 2011 etch, even if the correct length, do not provide the visual representation of the prototype.

You may wish to check the JLTRT brake cross-shaft against the drawing provided - the same item in the Gresley coach kit is too long by circa 2mm, the effect is that of having the joint between lever and vac cyl at too low a position and the cylinder titled too much for the normal running position.

regards, Graham
 
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