Mk1 Resources And Parts

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Bob,

Might you have the measurements of the body dimensions plate which was affixed to the end of the Mk.1 body?

I have come across a photograph ofa Mk.1 where the vestibule door to the left hand end has a bump stop... which was not necessary as (a) such doors (ought to have) had straps to restrict opening and (b) if the door was to open 180 degrees then the bump stop on the door would not touch the body anyway ('cos there would not have been any body there!).

So how often did doors get swamped between vehicles or between positions within a vehicle? I was talking to the C&W team at Winchcombe some years back and they reckoned they could tell which works made the body / door by the fit (of lack of)... the door in the hole. All of which suggested to me, at the time, that swapping doors was not common place.

regards, Graham
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
You'll have to hang on for the plate dimensions Graham - I'm still brake..ing (sp)! - Door swaps were avoided between vehicles like the plague and even between doors on the same vehicle. Although they were all the same dimensions, they all with the vagaries of the production line and different works became a bit unique when they were fitted as new.

That said sometimes they had to be replaced - either the door frame was broken beyond repair or the steel outer shell needed replaced forcing the issue, either way a hell of job. They did use cast alloy doors for a while but they were even worse! I don't doubt the C&W teams story - though we thought we could tell what Coachbuilder or apprentice probably fitted them (or not)!

Bob
 

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
A question for TOP MAN Bob.:oops:

Do you know the measurements of the larger bodyside windows on a TPO
Cant post a pic as im at work:oops:

Cheers Rob
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
I should have something that gives it Rob - if you can send me a photo or the Diagram No. it'll make it easier...

(I've a fair collection of Microfilmed drawings that I can often find these things on - though not always. Fortunately what might appear haphazard in the construction sometimes was really prescriptive thanks to BR)!

Regards,

Bob.
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-8&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=7

Is what I use for fitting things like etched brass grilles, fan hatches and various other gubbins to my HO stuff when I have need to detail up. Works very well - it's effectively a water-based contact adhesive.

Steph,

I got my bottle of the Metal Foil Adhesive on Wednesday and managed to put it to use last night in putting some lead foil capping on the shed vent roofs and it works a treat. I used it exactly as directed on the label with no problems. It even has a little bit of slide (remember wallpaper paste adverts of many years ago :) ) which allows a bit of last minute finessing of position. I am beginning to envisage quite a few uses for this adhesive.

Jim.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I got my bottle of the Metal Foil Adhesive on Wednesday.... I used it exactly as directed on the label with no problems. It even has a little bit of slide (remember wallpaper paste adverts of many years ago :) ) which allows a bit of last minute finessing of position. I am beginning to envisage quite a few uses for this adhesive.
Now that reads like an excellent recommendation for the product, thank you Jim.

Thank you Steph for responding to the question.
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
Now that reads like an excellent recommendation for the product, thank you Jim.

I just had a pick around the work I did last night. The adhesive is certainly not permanent in that I can un-peel the lead foil with a bit of effort, but it will be more than strong enough to do the job it is intended for - sticking light foil or membrane to surfaces. I would class it as strong Post-IT. :) Because it seems to stay flexible, it would look as though it would be ideal for sticking flat areas of materials with different expansion coefficients. But I think it would need a reasonable area of contact to work well.

Jim.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I just had a pick around the work I did last night. The adhesive is certainly not permanent in that I can un-peel the lead foil with a bit of effort, but it will be more than strong enough to do the job it is intended for - sticking light foil or membrane to surfaces. I would class it as strong Post-IT. :) Because it seems to stay flexible, it would look as though it would be ideal for sticking flat areas of materials with different expansion coefficients. But I think it would need a reasonable area of contact to work well.

What happens to the bond if left for a few days?

What about sticking brass etches to ABS? (noting that the ABS is shaped to represent the tumblehome and turnunder of a BR Mk.1 carriage). Maybe Jim or Steph could set up a trial?

regards, Graham
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
What happens to the bond if left for a few days?

Good question. :) I can wait and see. :)

I've just done a trawl of the Web on Google and I can't find any mention of problems with the product. All the references seem to be for when it is used as intended - for sticking foil on models, principally aeroplanes. :)

What about sticking brass etches to ABS? (noting that the ABS is shaped to represent the tumblehome and turnunder of a BR Mk.1 carriage). Maybe Jim or Steph could set up a trial?

I'll dig out a bit of thin nickel silver sheet and stick it to some thick Plastikard - the nearest I can get at the moment to thin brass on ABS - and see what happens. I suspect that it will stick very well. I'll try and heat mould the Plastikard to provide a curved surface.

One of the uses I was thinking about was not on an actual model, but for holding thin sheet metal to a milling table while cutting it. It might be a better solution than using double sided tape and the apparent lowish strength of the adhesive might allow the piece to be lifted off with not too much problem.

Jim.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Steph,

I got my bottle of the Metal Foil Adhesive on Wednesday and managed to put it to use last night in putting some lead foil capping on the shed vent roofs and it works a treat. I used it exactly as directed on the label with no problems. It even has a little bit of slide (remember wallpaper paste adverts of many years ago :) ) which allows a bit of last minute finessing of position. I am beginning to envisage quite a few uses for this adhesive.

Jim.

Pleased to have been of assistance... :D

Steph
 

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
I should have something that gives it Rob - if you can send me a photo or the Diagram No. it'll make it easier...

(I've a fair collection of Microfilmed drawings that I can often find these things on - though not always. Fortunately what might appear haphazard in the construction sometimes was really prescriptive thanks to BR)!

Regards,

Bob.

Hi Bob,

Back at home now so had a look and its a sorting van , diagram 720:thumbs:

Cheers Rob:)
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
A question for TOP MAN Bob.:oops:

Do you know the measurements of the larger bodyside windows on a TPO
Cant post a pic as im at work:oops:

Cheers Rob

For the diagram 720 do you mean those that run along the upper bodyside below the gutter/cant rail? They all have a clearlight width (the width over the glass) of 2'-0" and a height of 1'-4 1/2".

Regards,

Bob
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
A couple of daft questions (perhaps) about Mk1s/ parts but mention of "Model Express" Mk1s earlier in the thread? Where do you get them from / has anyone got a catalogue? Similarly, a supplier (preferably on-line) or catalogue for ABS parts? Most of what I've bought so far has come from JLTRT....

Regards,

Bob
 

28ten

Guv'nor
I will pick up a catalogue from ABS at Reading, i need a few bits from them. I will also take some shots of the JLTRT castings for reference
 
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