7mm MOK 14XX

Discussion in 'WR Action' started by FuntleyWorks, 18 February 2018.

  1. FuntleyWorks

    FuntleyWorks Western Thunderer

    Just personal choice Peter!
  2. West Junction

    West Junction Western Thunderer

    I am getting towards the end of my 48xx MOK build. What size rod/wire do you use for the conduit, steam heat and vacuum pies running along the underside of footplate on these locos. Also some people use masking tape to represent the insulation around the steam heat pipes, does this last well on a model? Thanks for any advice.
    I also missed the support part 1078 under the top of the tanks. I found by slightly splaying the etch where it touched the side tanks I was able to spring it in between the two side tanks without causing any problems.
  3. P A D

    P A D Western Thunderer

    My apologies. No offense intended.

    I'm just trying to understand why on such an expensive and well designed kit, you prefer to replace these major parts. Is it as Adrian suggest that the supplied parts are turned brass tubes and as such a heat sink?

    Let's face it, I've just made my own steam heat and brake pipes for my Finney A3. The supplied coil springs look the part but are flexible, which I don't like, particularly on the steam hear pipe which has a dummy storage chain. Every time you catch the pipe the "chain" bends and eventually snaps.

  4. West Junction

    West Junction Western Thunderer

    I cannot find any information on where the ATC pick up shoe was fixed to the 48xx frame. Does anybody have this information.

  5. FuntleyWorks

    FuntleyWorks Western Thunderer

    Hello Peter,

    I have a picture of the shoe attachment which I will post for you when I get home!
  6. BrushType4

    BrushType4 Western Thunderer

    These are lovely little engines and I'll be watching your build progress with interest.

    Here is one I didn't do earlier. (Bachman Brassworks) Not sure the livery is correct but I like it.

  7. Mr Grumpy

    Mr Grumpy Western Thunderer

    Unfortunately I don’t need another 14xx....but a 58xx could be a damn good excuse :rolleyes:
  8. Burghley

    Burghley New Member

    I am new to forums and Western Thunder. Present project is a MOK 14xx and after a long delay I have finally decided to tackle all the pipework etc. but am a bit baffled as to what goes where. The kit has two lengths of copper pipe of different diameters and I note from somewhere on this site that one could be for the vacuum pipe and one for the steam pipe - is this correct? Photos seem to show same size pipes on either side of the loco.

    I'm very grateful for all the photos of 14xx posted on this site - things are now somewhat clearer.
  9. John TAYLOR

    John TAYLOR Western Thunderer

    Hi Burghley

    You don`t specify a time period for your model bu here is mine for the 1930`s







    Attached Files:

  10. Burghley

    Burghley New Member

    Hi John,

    Still trying to find my way around this forum!

    Many thanks for your reply and the photos. I should have specified GWR 48xx as the period is 1935-1939 and the loco is to be matched with an auto coach. I note that you have painted the body before attaching the boiler, mine is already attached. I hope painting will not be problematical. How did you fit the straps for the pipe work?

    Kind regards

    Max Harris
  11. John TAYLOR

    John TAYLOR Western Thunderer

    Hi again Max,
    I took the advantage catered for in the assembly of keeping the boiler and smokebox as a seperate unit which makes airbrushing a lot easier.
    The pipe work straps are metal strip bent round the pipework and pinched together with flat nose pliers to form into `split pin` shapes and then filed to fit into drilled holes in the valence and then lightly soldered up.

  12. Burghley

    Burghley New Member

    Thanks for that, there is always an easy way of doing it! Must send for for some n/s strip. Light is slowly beginning to dawn with the pipe work and fittings - the pictures on this forum have been a great help - I assume that the two lengths of copper rod in the MOK kit are for the backhead pipe etc work and not the steam & vacuum pipes. What do you use for the steam and vacuum pipes? I have located a supplier of 1.6mm copper wire in coils which would seem to be OK.

  13. P A D

    P A D Western Thunderer

    Hi Max,
    Where the kit doesn't have cast brake and heating pipes, I make my own from brass tube. Off hand I don't know what OD it is but it's just the right size to tap 10BA. I hold the tube in a pin vice and turn it in the die just held in my other hand. This gives the ribbed effect. Then anneal the tube, bend to shape and cut to size with a piercing saw. The one on the left is ribbed and the other is plain on the A4 tender.

  14. Burghley

    Burghley New Member

    Hi Peter,
    Apologies for the delay in acknowledging your post - busy with domestic matters!. Many thanks for the photo and comments - very useful. Actually the problem I am having is the two pipes that run along the valances of the 14xx, I presume one is a steam pipe and the other vacuum. Some photos seem to show they are different diameters.
    Best regards