7mm MOK Ivatt 4MT in S7
- Thread starter richard carr
- Start date
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Not at all Tony please keep posting if you wish to, it will only make it easier to build mine.
Richard
Richard
AJC
Western Thunderer
'pends how west country you're thinking - quite a number were overhauled at Swindon (and Eastleigh) from about '64 onwards. I've seen a picture online somewhere of a very shiny Ivatt 4 working a Bournemouth-Southampton local, headcode discs and all. Branch working would be less likely I suppose, but aren't these kits a bit on the dear side for impulse purchases!?
Adam
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I have photos of quite a few at Eastleigh including one inside the works. In fact I saw the now preserved 43106 there. I believe they came from the M & GN when that shut and their condition on arrival was appalling. As confirmed above, they ran in after overhaul on the Bournemouth line, but how far west they actually reached will require more research than I have time for.
Brian
Brian
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Unfortunately I have been away for the past 10 days, but at least I dd have achance to meet Steve in Sydney for a very pleasant beer (or 2) last Sunday.
I have made a bit of progress since I got back yesterday morning.
This is how far I got before I left the tender body is now largely complete.
There was still plenty to do on the chassis but I was awaiting the wheels to arrive, these did while I was away.
Now I have the wheels, I can fit all the brakes and the water scoop.
You can get a very close fit of the brake blocks to the wheels if you want to, but I choose to leave enough space to easily remove the wheels
With the compensation unit you do need to fit the wheels and stand the chassis on a flat surface to position the brakes.
The brake blocks are separate item and can be moved to get the best fit. I have run a piece of 0.7mm wire through each pair to make it easier to get everything where I want it. I will cut these out later once everything is soldered up.
This is the finished chassis, fitting the final linl to the water scoop was a bit fiddly but everything else went together relatively easily
I have made a bit of progress since I got back yesterday morning.
This is how far I got before I left the tender body is now largely complete.
There was still plenty to do on the chassis but I was awaiting the wheels to arrive, these did while I was away.
Now I have the wheels, I can fit all the brakes and the water scoop.
You can get a very close fit of the brake blocks to the wheels if you want to, but I choose to leave enough space to easily remove the wheels
With the compensation unit you do need to fit the wheels and stand the chassis on a flat surface to position the brakes.
The brake blocks are separate item and can be moved to get the best fit. I have run a piece of 0.7mm wire through each pair to make it easier to get everything where I want it. I will cut these out later once everything is soldered up.
This is the finished chassis, fitting the final linl to the water scoop was a bit fiddly but everything else went together relatively easily
richard carr
Western Thunderer
The tender is now largely finished, the only item to add are the buffers, but thsi will happen later as they will part of the re charging system for the batteries.
I have now started looking at the driving wheels for this loco. There are no S7 wheels available for it, in the past I would have bought some Alan Harris castings but these are no longer available. The S7 group do produce a 5 foot 3 inch 16 spoke wheel but this for a LMS 4f and the although it looks similar its not that close. The only other alternative is the slaters wheel for a stand 4 (76000 class) but these are finescale and need re profiling and thinning to meet S7 standards
Hers a picture of the 4f S7 wheel and the Slaters std wheel
You can see that the slaters wheel needs thinning by quite a bit, in this case by 0.65 mm.
I decided to do this by taking all the extra thickness off the back of the wheel
This is what I have done here.
There isn't a lot of flange left, so to get it back the wheel is going to end up a little smaller.
There is plenty of meat in the tyre to put the flange back, its much smaller in any case and this is what you get.
So now I have a correct thickness wheel but with a smaller tyre.
So this will be the way forward. The pony wheel and tender wheels are fine as the S7 group does produce those.
I have now started looking at the driving wheels for this loco. There are no S7 wheels available for it, in the past I would have bought some Alan Harris castings but these are no longer available. The S7 group do produce a 5 foot 3 inch 16 spoke wheel but this for a LMS 4f and the although it looks similar its not that close. The only other alternative is the slaters wheel for a stand 4 (76000 class) but these are finescale and need re profiling and thinning to meet S7 standards
Hers a picture of the 4f S7 wheel and the Slaters std wheel
You can see that the slaters wheel needs thinning by quite a bit, in this case by 0.65 mm.
I decided to do this by taking all the extra thickness off the back of the wheel
This is what I have done here.
There isn't a lot of flange left, so to get it back the wheel is going to end up a little smaller.
There is plenty of meat in the tyre to put the flange back, its much smaller in any case and this is what you get.
So now I have a correct thickness wheel but with a smaller tyre.
So this will be the way forward. The pony wheel and tender wheels are fine as the S7 group does produce those.
AJC
Western Thunderer
My understanding was that the work on these Midland types was a function of the Crewe and Derby no longer doing steam work - most of the M&GN shut in '59 so that's possibly a red herring. Here's the picture (or a link to it) that I had in mind:
43088 New Milton, Hants 18/6/65
43088 at New Milton in June 1965.
Adam
Last edited:
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Hi Adam.
That's a location I now really well - I had a close aunt and family who lived in New Milton and we visited often throughout the '50s and early '60s, my cousin and I often train spotting at the station. Our family normally went to New Milton on the train (occasionally by Royal Blue Coach) and my first railway memory was standing next to a huge loco which was our train engine at Waterloo with my father and thinking what a stupid name it had. It was "Bibby Line".
I saw a number of the "Flying Pigs" at Eastleigh in May 1965 so perhaps 43088 was amongst them, although I don't have any pictures to prove it.
Brian
That's a location I now really well - I had a close aunt and family who lived in New Milton and we visited often throughout the '50s and early '60s, my cousin and I often train spotting at the station. Our family normally went to New Milton on the train (occasionally by Royal Blue Coach) and my first railway memory was standing next to a huge loco which was our train engine at Waterloo with my father and thinking what a stupid name it had. It was "Bibby Line".
I saw a number of the "Flying Pigs" at Eastleigh in May 1965 so perhaps 43088 was amongst them, although I don't have any pictures to prove it.
Brian
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Its been a while since I last posted on this thread. After finishing the tender so quickly I have been getting distracted by my JLTRT 26 and a few heljan wagons and even doing a bit on the layout. I have also been away travelling on business but I managed to get back home and Thursday and spend a few hours working on the Ivatt and this is where I have got to.
The basic chassis is not up and running perfectly. It is a real testament to the accuracy of this kit that I have assembled it without any jigs of any kind and yet when the coupling rods went over the wheels the that chassis just ran straight away.
This is how I got here.
The instructions are very detailed and I followed them religiously step by step. The only thing I didn't do was put in the sanding pipes as I thought that was too soon.
These are some of the frame spacers, some compensation components the motor mount (top left) and ash pan (bottom left)
All nice and easy to build.
Here I have added the horn blocks to the frames and the sanding pipe supports. The bearings for the hornblocks need to be carefully filed to just fit easily in the horn blocks.
A few more frame spacers again.
Now I have soldered in the spring supports as this is much easier to do when the sides are separate.
The ash pan and the compensation gubbins that sit on top of it have been added and the rear frame spacers. They have not been solderd but I have just twisted the tabs on the out side of the frames to hold them firmly in place.
I have added a few more frame spacers again they are not yet soldered in place I have just twisted the tabs.
If you look closely you can see the tabs I have twisted to hols the spacers in place.
I have now added all the frame spacers and joined them to the other frame, again everything is held together with twisted tabs. Do read the instructions carefully as some tabs are not twisted and are used to locate the frame overlays.
Views of each side of the chassis just held together with the twisted tabs, everything is perfectly in place, it was then a very easy job to solder all this up in 10 minutes.
I then cut off the twisted tabs and filed them smoothe before adding the frame overlays.
The basic chassis is not up and running perfectly. It is a real testament to the accuracy of this kit that I have assembled it without any jigs of any kind and yet when the coupling rods went over the wheels the that chassis just ran straight away.
This is how I got here.
The instructions are very detailed and I followed them religiously step by step. The only thing I didn't do was put in the sanding pipes as I thought that was too soon.
These are some of the frame spacers, some compensation components the motor mount (top left) and ash pan (bottom left)
All nice and easy to build.
Here I have added the horn blocks to the frames and the sanding pipe supports. The bearings for the hornblocks need to be carefully filed to just fit easily in the horn blocks.
A few more frame spacers again.
Now I have soldered in the spring supports as this is much easier to do when the sides are separate.
The ash pan and the compensation gubbins that sit on top of it have been added and the rear frame spacers. They have not been solderd but I have just twisted the tabs on the out side of the frames to hold them firmly in place.
I have added a few more frame spacers again they are not yet soldered in place I have just twisted the tabs.
If you look closely you can see the tabs I have twisted to hols the spacers in place.
I have now added all the frame spacers and joined them to the other frame, again everything is held together with twisted tabs. Do read the instructions carefully as some tabs are not twisted and are used to locate the frame overlays.
Views of each side of the chassis just held together with the twisted tabs, everything is perfectly in place, it was then a very easy job to solder all this up in 10 minutes.
I then cut off the twisted tabs and filed them smoothe before adding the frame overlays.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
If this is of any use, it's one of my dad's photographs taken at Peterborough.
I've always like the look of these, very European/American with their high running plate.
I've always like the look of these, very European/American with their high running plate.
Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen
Western Thunderer
Some interesting pipework from the lubricator
Tim
Tim
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Some interesting pipework from the lubricator
Not quite a snakes wedding.
I believe Ivatt placed the turret on top of the firebox after seeing the USATC S160. There are also some other US ideas which Ivatt and later Riddles used in their locomotive designs e.g. high running plate, handrails turned down the sides of the smokebox, injector positioning under the cab. All for easy access and maintenance.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Its months since I did any work on the Ivatt but I have finally got around to finishing off most of the other things I have started since then so I'm back to it.
The next big step is the boiler and firebox, I have been dreading the firebox as its a form to shape one your self with 3 bends on either side that are all crucial to getting a good looking model.
The instructions say to start with the smoke box and work to the cab so that is what I have done.
This is the smoke box, its wrapper and the formers for it and the matching one in the boiler.
Here's the wrapper going into the rollers. These are the GW models rollers, I don't use them very often but they are essential for a job like this.
On its way
One rolled firebox wrapper.
The next big step is the boiler and firebox, I have been dreading the firebox as its a form to shape one your self with 3 bends on either side that are all crucial to getting a good looking model.
The instructions say to start with the smoke box and work to the cab so that is what I have done.
This is the smoke box, its wrapper and the formers for it and the matching one in the boiler.
Here's the wrapper going into the rollers. These are the GW models rollers, I don't use them very often but they are essential for a job like this.
On its way
One rolled firebox wrapper.