7mm MOK Ivatt 4MT in S7

Martin Field

Western Thunderer
I would consider minimum about all you could get. I say that as if I worked out what I got for most of the bespoke models I've made from scratch it wouldn't have come to much more. 760 hours to make a Riva speedboat. £3000.
So, £300 for paint, I would say was a good price. Thanks, Warren. I might have started there if I were guessing.
I worked long hours and got quicker and raised a family and paid a mortgage on the proceeds. Not sure I still could.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Hi Ken

I just used my 80 watt soldering iron. The lubricator casting is hollow so you can drill the hole right through and then poke the wire in quite a long way, so that even if it heats up too much when you add the the next one, it doesn't fall out. I have to say that this was all a lot easier than I expected it to be, it was just slow and I had to be patient.

The whole kit has been a joy to build, but even with the detailed instructions, and you must read them very carefully it is easy to miss something, you still spend quite a lot of time working out exactly where things go.


Richard
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Hi Ken

I just used my 80 watt soldering iron. The lubricator casting is hollow so you can drill the hole right through and then poke the wire in quite a long way, so that even if it heats up too much when you add the the next one, it doesn't fall out. I have to say that this was all a lot easier than I expected it to be, it was just slow and I had to be patient.

The whole kit has been a joy to build, but even with the detailed instructions, and you must read them very carefully it is easy to miss something, you still spend quite a lot of time working out exactly where things go.


Richard


Thanks Richard, I asked because I have recently purchased a S7 4MT from MOK and the lubricator is a solid casting.

I thought about drilling the pipe holes deeper but almost bound to break a drill when doing so. Maybe I should mill out the underside of the casting.

The etchings and castings in this kit look fantastic and can't wait to get started but must finish the 31 first.

Ken
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I finally got back to doing some more work on the Ivatt this weekend.

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Here is the chassis sat on the rolling road. Now as an 0-6-0 it was working fine but now with most of the valve gear added it wasn't working so well and not something that an hours running in was going to fix.

After a bit of thinking about it and close observation it looked like the connecting rod was sticking as it moved right to the J hangar end of the slide bars. So I decided to drill out the connecting rod and give it another 0.5mm clearance on the crank pin.

And it worked ,I have now added the rest of the valve gear and it's running just fine, I really need to work out how to do a video.

Richard
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Ken,

I find the best way to drill out lubricator casting unions is to file off what's there, then you can drill a bigger hole all the way through the casting (less likely to snap a bigger drill bit) and then place micro bore brass tube in the hole allowing you to use fine brass wire for the lubricator runs.

Richard, if you send me the video, I can put on my YouTube account and send you the link.

JB.
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,
Just found your thread on the MOK Ivatt 4. What a wonderful build. Superb!

May I ask what the state of play is with it? It would be good to see how it's progressing.
Cheers,
Peter
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Peter

It is getting there slowly, the body is painted the battery power and electronic bits are in the tender. I just need to add the cab wind breaks as these unfortunately are not provided in the kit and I didn't realise until the other day, but Laurie Griffin came to the rescue at Telford.

I will get round to posting some pictures but probably not for a week or two yet.

Richard
 

Wildebeeste

New Member
The tender is now largely finished, the only item to add are the buffers, but thsi will happen later as they will part of the re charging system for the batteries.

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I have now started looking at the driving wheels for this loco. There are no S7 wheels available for it, in the past I would have bought some Alan Harris castings but these are no longer available. The S7 group do produce a 5 foot 3 inch 16 spoke wheel but this for a LMS 4f and the although it looks similar its not that close. The only other alternative is the slaters wheel for a stand 4 (76000 class) but these are finescale and need re profiling and thinning to meet S7 standards

Hers a picture of the 4f S7 wheel and the Slaters std wheel

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You can see that the slaters wheel needs thinning by quite a bit, in this case by 0.65 mm.
I decided to do this by taking all the extra thickness off the back of the wheel

This is what I have done here.

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There isn't a lot of flange left, so to get it back the wheel is going to end up a little smaller.

There is plenty of meat in the tyre to put the flange back, its much smaller in any case and this is what you get.

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So now I have a correct thickness wheel but with a smaller tyre.

So this will be the way forward. The pony wheel and tender wheels are fine as the S7 group does produce those.

Some time has passed and you will have long finished the project. The tender looks superb in your pictures. I am building one at present and something came up which might interest you (and others who might build one). MOK model their 4MT (4F) on 43106. This loco has a tender with a hand rail which follows the curve on the step. I noticed, almost by chance, that my chosen loco has a different hand rail to this.....the handrail is straight and is on the side of the tender edge facing the engine. Following a conversation with Dave Sharpe I did a bit of low level research and discovered that the curved hand rails seem to be exclusive to tablet catcher fitted tenders. The original square step and updated curved steps tenders which don't have the tablet catcher fitted have straight hand rails as described. 43106 has had the tablet catcher plated over. From Dave's comments I think he might modify future kits to reflect this.

Hope this is of use.............

Ray
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard, an excellent thread which I enjoyed very much.
I have recently completed a MOK tender kit to attach to a scratch built loco (not built by me) and can vouch for the ease of build and quality of the MOK kits. I now have the 'pleasure' of building another 'Flying Pig' from an elderly ACME kit which I don't doubt will be more of a challenge than yours!
I hope you don't mind but I have attached a photo of the 'scratch built' version, which was one of the original LMS built engines, and it needed to have the tender modified, mainly at the rear, to have the ladder moved to the centre and the revised hand rails on the tank top.
Regards
Sandy

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oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Alan Adams of Telford makes bespoke or stock boxes from ply and soft wood. He sometimes has an advert in the Gazette but his phone number is 07927421278

Sandy

IMHO good boxes. I dropped two off a trolley on the way in to Guildex two years ago. The contents were entirely unscathed!

Brian
 
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