7mm MOK Ivatt 4MT in S7

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by richard carr, 16 January 2016.

  1. Martin Field

    Martin Field Western Thunderer

    I would consider minimum about all you could get. I say that as if I worked out what I got for most of the bespoke models I've made from scratch it wouldn't have come to much more. 760 hours to make a Riva speedboat. £3000.
    So, £300 for paint, I would say was a good price. Thanks, Warren. I might have started there if I were guessing.
    I worked long hours and got quicker and raised a family and paid a mortgage on the proceeds. Not sure I still could.
     
  2. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Hi Ken

    I just used my 80 watt soldering iron. The lubricator casting is hollow so you can drill the hole right through and then poke the wire in quite a long way, so that even if it heats up too much when you add the the next one, it doesn't fall out. I have to say that this was all a lot easier than I expected it to be, it was just slow and I had to be patient.

    The whole kit has been a joy to build, but even with the detailed instructions, and you must read them very carefully it is easy to miss something, you still spend quite a lot of time working out exactly where things go.


    Richard
     
  3. farnetti

    farnetti Western Thunderer


    Thanks Richard, I asked because I have recently purchased a S7 4MT from MOK and the lubricator is a solid casting.

    I thought about drilling the pipe holes deeper but almost bound to break a drill when doing so. Maybe I should mill out the underside of the casting.

    The etchings and castings in this kit look fantastic and can't wait to get started but must finish the 31 first.

    Ken
     
  4. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I finally got back to doing some more work on the Ivatt this weekend.

    20180210_203828.jpg

    Here is the chassis sat on the rolling road. Now as an 0-6-0 it was working fine but now with most of the valve gear added it wasn't working so well and not something that an hours running in was going to fix.

    After a bit of thinking about it and close observation it looked like the connecting rod was sticking as it moved right to the J hangar end of the slide bars. So I decided to drill out the connecting rod and give it another 0.5mm clearance on the crank pin.

    And it worked ,I have now added the rest of the valve gear and it's running just fine, I really need to work out how to do a video.

    Richard
     
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  5. Scale7JB

    Scale7JB Western Thunderer

    Ken,

    I find the best way to drill out lubricator casting unions is to file off what's there, then you can drill a bigger hole all the way through the casting (less likely to snap a bigger drill bit) and then place micro bore brass tube in the hole allowing you to use fine brass wire for the lubricator runs.

    Richard, if you send me the video, I can put on my YouTube account and send you the link.

    JB.
     
  6. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I tried a little video last night, it's a bit wobbly

     
  7. john lewsey

    john lewsey Western Thunderer

    I'd love to see that at some point