Motor bogies

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
I havent cut it yet  :)) that is just my computer model  :)) :)) but it will be laser cut when I get around to it

Doh!  What a pillock, though in my defence, I was viewing the (much smaller), image on my phone.  :-[

It just goes to show how useful and realistic computers can be for us modellers.


Regards

Dan
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Dan Randall said:
Doh!  What a pillock, though in my defence, I was viewing the (much smaller), image on my phone.  :-[

It just goes to show how useful and realistic computers can be for us modellers.


Regards

Dan
Well im thinking it could save me the hassle of building the models  :)) :))
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Simon said:
Oddly enough, my D6315 has one of those (Pittman) motors driving one axle, with delrin drive to the other. There is a gurt big hole cut into the underfrome to allow it to stick up into the body void.

It is quite a smooth runner but draws one hell of a current, it is my intention to replace it with something more sophisticated when I find it, so please carry on deliberating!!

It also runs out of grunt and stalls when I tack all of my wagonry on the back, so it is a pretty useless tool as configured in my loco, although the gearing may be too low(?)

Simon
Years ago, I was told that RJH diesels needed two motors (including having delrin sprockets and chain to the second axle): one for the loco, and one for the train. That was only 7mm scale, so maybe with an old-fashioned low low efficiency motor like a Pittman, you need to have two?
But the lights in Bath might dim if you did that!
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Simon Dunkley said:
Years ago, I was told that RJH diesels needed two motors (including having delrin sprockets and chain to the second axle): one for the loco, and one for the train. That was only 7mm scale, so maybe with an old-fashioned low low efficiency motor like a Pittman, you need to have two?
But the lights in Bath might dim if you did that!
I wonder if that's where the practice originates from :scratch:, I find in 7mm that one motor (usually Mashima) in my class's 35 & below is fine
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
CME & Bottlewasher said:
Hi All,

The thing that I have found with Delrin is that sometimes the cogs can slip - even if/whan 'glued' - and also chain tension can be an issue...yet the last one I did the tention was perfect and I pined/glued the cogs......and yes you are right Phill they can then be ultra reliable......yet even the greats have problems with the system as I errr 'helped' - at Steam - Brian Daniels with his 9F and a split delrin cog :eek: :headbang:  :shit:....BTW did I mention that they sometimes split? With the 9f, all that underframe detail....well suffice to say that to get the cog back on was a challenge and I left Brian D with it :scratch: ;) :))

I just think that the Yanks with their drive shafts etc....have a better solution :thumbs: :D

CME :wave:
Never had any slipping or splitting  :scratch:, the only problem of sorts I have had so far was with a Wezzy, with the chains tensioned nicely (just a bit of slack) it ran like a pig & took ages to connect up the chains in restricted area too :headbang:...so I put an extra link in which made them sloppy & it ran like a dream .............can't win em all  :)). I am interested in these US drive methods though  :scratch: :D
Phill  :wave:
 
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