Mr Grumpy

[Ressaldar]

Will any modeller dare to put the smiley face on the cab side window?

don't tempt me Eric......................

cheers

Mike

 

[40126]

Thats what makes it different, smiley face in the dirt.

Steve

 

[Pugsley]

Little things like that can add a bit of interest to a model. I put this on one of my 60's a few years ago:

Freelanced, in this case, but not entirely out of place

 

[Mr Grumpy]

....ok, bored with election results already....Quick browse on t'net and found my sort of train
Who needs graffiti?

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The big day has finally arrived! The hefty parcel has landed, almost requiring a 2 man lift! After feeling a bit glum on Sunday, dropping off my Heljan 47, I needed a pick up, and hoped this would be it.
So with a bit of excitement and a lot of trepidation, I delved in to the box.
On the whole, the castings are very nice, but I am a little concerned that I don't cause any damage cleaning up the cabs, especially on the nose and thin rain strip above the windscreens.
Any advice willingly soaked up please!

 

[Heather Kay]

Wow! Flashtastic!

I would tackle this with a sharp scalpel blade, various scrapers, files and sanding blocks. Some of the flash might pick off with a finger nail, leaving a base that can be scraped and sanded back.

I find the best way to tackle cleaning up castings is to be methodical about it. Expect to cause some damage, because it's inevitable, no matter how careful you are.

That said, simple repairs can be made to white metal or pewter quite easily. If you punch a hole, for example, you can fill it with a blob of low melt solder from the end of a temperature controlled iron. If you damage the rainstrip, you might find it easier to repair or even replace it with wire. Over-zealous scraping might be easily repaired with some filler.

 

[Dikitriki]

Wow! Flashtastic!

That said, simple repairs can be made to white metal or pewter quite easily. If you punch a hole, for example, you can fill it with a blob of low melt solder from the end of a temperature controlled iron.

I would advise against this approach. There is a high risk, over time, that such a method will leave a witness mark.

You have significant amounts of flash, and a big feed along the bottom of the body side. Keep this and use as a filler, filed to a plug and soldered in. If I'm trying to reinstate some white-metal, and I don't have any of the base metal to hand, I would use 145 solder, but that is a tricky operation, as the melting points are very close.

Richard

 

[pete waterman]

You need Cerro Bend this is the metal that car body guys use as a filler it melts at 200 you will find in the net . It will stick to most metal and is easy to rub down.

 

[Heather Kay]

I would advise against this approach. There is a high risk, over time, that such a method will leave a witness mark.

Fair point.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thanks for your words of wisdom!
I won't complain about the mould lines on my Heljans anymore!
My wife is going to hide the 47 until my thumper is finished......

Edit for veering off subject!!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

......made a start on cleaning up the cabs. Not as difficult as I imagined, just a tad tedious !

 

[richard carr]

Yes it is very tedious, as is removing the big feed on the body, but it is essential to getting a good model. Have you tried the glazing for fit yet, thats another tedious but essential exercise.

Richard

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thanks for giving me more good news Richard!! It's enough to make one grumpy!! Having had a quick look at the N/S frame etch, I'm guessing the windscreen window apertures are going to take a fair bit more enlarging so they don't show behind the etch frame

 

[richard carr]

You need to open up the windows so that the glazing is a nice fit, if it is too small then it creases the plastic. Once you have done that then check how the etched frames look, they should be fine.
It is one downside fo the casting process that the window apertures can vary a bit in size, so they have to make them onthe small side to make sure there are not any that are too large.
It wasn't my favourite task.


Richard

 

[Mr Grumpy]

....at least the shape of the cabs look spot on, so hopefully worth clogging a few files

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Just taken a look at the DJH lighting kit. I hadn't realised the kit comes with light bulbs and not LEDs.

I have attached the DC wiring instructions. As I will be running with an XL decoder, please could anyone give me some tips on how to wire the bulbs?
Will definitely want the rear lights and rear head code off when running with a train.

Thanks for any help!!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Sorry folks, yet another burning question!!

I'm 99% certain I'm going to build my 47 as IKB.
Having checked the steam boiler installed, it appears to have been a Clayton.
Does anyone know which type of boiler exhaust port was fitted or have photographs of 1662s boiler exhaust port?
I think it may have been the square one as for the Stone Vapour type.

Thanks, in the meantime I will carry on hunting!!

 

[Pugsley]

If 1662 had the same boiler as 1664, then it is the square port:
http://www.class47.co.uk/c47_zoom_v2.php?img=0758050003210

More info here:
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=23768

HTH

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thanks Pugsley,
Both locomotives were fitted with the Clayton boiler from new, so the photo is a great help and supports my thought on the square port.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Removed the two body side feeds. Still a fair bit of cleaning up to do. But couldn't resist a quick look with the cabs tacked on each end.....