Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I have got the buffer beams/valances made up, and filed the cabs to produce a snug fit.
I have tried experimenting to achieve the grease on the buffers by brushing on a little glue, then adding satin black paint.
Don't know if I'm convinced, any opinions or suggestions?
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Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
To be honest I'm not convinced either; Humbrol metalcote gunmetal might work better....?

Steph
 
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Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph,
I had originally painted the buffers in polished steel with metalcote 'grease'.
This looked unconvincing, so stripped back and used metalcote gunmetal for the buffers and grease.
There wasn't enough definition between the textures so over painted the grease in satin black.
To be honest all my other stock and locos simply have metalcote buffers, so this experement will probably go the same way!
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Ok...experiment failed. Buffers now satin black until I apply the weathering.
I may have a go at chemically blackening them, as the paint readily chips off the edges.
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M

markjj

Western Thunderer
Silly question but why not apply real grease it's abundantly available and much more like the real thing....
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I used to run coal and gas fired locos in the garden, and what eventually put me off was what I thought I wanted... Real coal...real oil.... real ash in the smoke box and ash pan! Give me the pretend stuff any time!!
However, because my locos carried out a lot of propelling stock through tight radius curves and point work I did, at one stage, grease the buffers with Molykote 1102 grease (used in the gas industry for greasing gas taps) but got fed up with getting it on my fingers and transferring to everything else in striking distance! It did look very realistic though.
 
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richard carr

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I would chemically blacken the buffer heads then decide what you want to do. Personally I just leave them at that although they may pick up a bit of weathering when I do that

Richard
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
As the topic of the class 47 cab is quite fertile at present, I thought I would post a photo of the DJH cabs.
I recon they look spot on :)
I did have to spend a lot of time on the front window surrounds though.
Also, decided on a U turn and will, for the present use the DJH glazing material, as it looks quite good when fitted.
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Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Just started fetteling the water tanks and batteries.
It took me a couple of hours to get the layout my loco needs for the time period, and there are quite a few holes to drill out for the plumbing.
The water tanks needed a fair bit of work to clean up, but look very nice now.
Will finish this part of the build over the coming couple of days, then on to the main body....
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Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Just awarded myself
'twit of the month '
I have broken the golden rule of trying a dry run before committing to solder.
I cracked on and soldered the No1 end water tank brackets in place THEN tried the fit.
Unfortunately, a valve soldered to the battery box prevents the tank sliding in to place. (Valve can just be seen giggling at me on the battery at the bottom of the picture.)
It's a nuisance when there is no one else to blame.....:rant:
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OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
That is one of the good things about solder, you can un-stick it without to much damage.

OzzyO.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Brian,
Unless you are going to destroy me and tell me all my research has been in vain, :confused: 1662 IKB, around 1970.
Or I quite like the idea of City of Truro.
My money is on IKB though! (First 'namer' I ever crossed through in my Ian Allen ABC :)
I'm going to have to play around with the boiler exhaust port as the correct one isn't in the kit.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I have started to clean up the body and open out the windows.
There is a fair amount of pitting which I will either fill with 70 degree solder or try to melt in some of the few kilos of pewter I have removed so far:)
I deliberately left some pitting on the water tanks and battery boxes to simulate a little corrosion.
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Brian Daniels

Brian Daniels

Western Thunderer
You surprise me that it does not have a Clayton boiler exhaust as the kit has every other bit to do lots of versions. Doing it blue with two sets of arrows, nice one.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Brian,
They cater for the Stones and Spanner versions.
Although, if I cut a square in the stones plated panel, and solder E29 on top that could do the trick
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