7mm My O World - Diesel Dabblings

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by Stu Fox, 11 July 2020.

  1. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Hi everyone,

    I have not been an habitual forum poster, merely a lurker. However, my building of things 7mm has been fairly continuous in spite of petty work and family related stuff.
    I thought i'd make a determined effort to maintain an online diary of my O gauge wanderings.
    I have a decent queue of stuff to do:
    A Hymek nearly done.
    A class 31 nearly done.
    A BR 1/506 brake nearly done.
    3x TTB tanks not started.
    A class 37 not started.
    A class 108 DMU not started.
    A class 47 not started.
    A circle of track to be laid with 11 points to build from scratch.
    Then maybe some more kits etc.. along the way....
    Here is the Hymek nearing it's completion:
    IMG_20200708_163627.jpg IMG_20200708_163600.jpg
    There was much chewing of the mind about the cab profile (it's a Blue Flier) cos the roof seemed shallow and the windows too big. Plasticard and filler seems to have captured the look a bit more. I'm happy with this 'face' now..

    Cheers

    Stu
     
    Last edited: 11 July 2020
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  2. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Hi all,
    Been painting the driver for the Hymek. This is from the Heroes of the Footplate range.
    IMG_20200708_163215.jpg
    His feet, of course, will never be seen!

    I've done the transfers/lettering on one side of the BV. This is tediuos stuff for me so it's done in stages!
    IMG_20200708_163043.jpg
    Cheers
    Stu
     
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  3. Jordan

    Jordan Mid-Western Thunderer

    A frightening number of my footplate crews are amputees!! :confused: :oops: ;)
     
  4. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Hi Jordan,
    Yes. The driver booked to spend his shifts in the Brush type 2 has made a big sacrifice:
    IMG_20200708_163416.jpg

    Hymek nearing completion now. Assembly , handrails, cab and weathering will complete it
    IMG_20200712_145044.jpg IMG_20200712_145108.jpg

    Cheers

    Stu
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Hymek almost done. Just weathering to go.
    IMG_20200719_160033.jpg
    Now it's on the bogies, i think it rides about 2mm too high. That'll be a biggish job to be done when it annoys me enough..
    IMG_20200719_160040.jpg
    Brake van is also nearly done. Just an airbrushing below the sole bar and sealing with matt varnish.
    IMG_20200719_160108.jpg
    All the best.

    Stu
     
  6. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Hi all,
    Hymek is done now aside from the muckying up. I want it to look like it's near withdrawal and neglected.
    To do all my airbrush weathering in one chunk, i've moved onto finishing the 31. The only real matter is fitting some lamp lenses. I've obtained some 2mm beads (holeless) to use. These will be sanded down and painted a dark red colour (i don't tend to complicate things with modern concepts like lighting..).
    IMG_20200708_163305.jpg
    Need six beads per cab.

    Cheers
    Stu
     
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  7. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    All done.
    IMG_20200727_174638.jpg
    IMG_20200727_174716.jpg IMG_20200727_174833.jpg
    Now onto the next project!
    IMG_20200727_175006.jpg
    A 37/0!
    Cheers
    Stu
     
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  8. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Good luck with that one Stu.

    You are going to need it.

    Richard
     
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  9. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Hi Richard, yes this one's a challenge. The only major thing that is virtually impossible to fix is the very slight taper to the cab roof. I'll also be adding the buffer beam skirts as per original form. Looking forward to it!!
     
  10. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Stu

    If you are up for it, I'm sure you will make a good job of it, brass diesel kits are not for the feint hearted, as I have learnt from experience, mainly pleasurable, but often very frustrating and they have certainly tested my metal working skills to the very limit.

    Richard
     
  11. Jordan

    Jordan Mid-Western Thunderer

    Neither do I. In fact I have disconnected or otherwise disabled the lights in my Heljan diesels. My memories of 1970's BR diesels is that in daylight you only noticed the lights if the loco was in a tunnel. As I spent 12 years working nights I have no desire to replicate the experience with my hobby, and do not operate my layouts in the dark. :rolleyes: ;)
     
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  12. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    For me (personal taste only) two things are a tad weird on Heljan diesels and other DCC stuff - the super brilliant white lights (oh and tail lights on a loco pulling a train) and dead straight air pipes sticking out like bucked teeth.
     
  13. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    The 37 has moved into the deep thought phase of the build. The pre-formed body isn't really pre-formed to capture some of the subtle curvature of the type 3; particularly around the cab window area. It needs some really careful study of the prototype and what i have 'in the hand'. If i can't get the shape right now, the rest of the build is pointless.
    So.... I've decided to make a start on the TTB/TTV/TTA tanks. I've scrubbed the etches with Barkeeper's Friend and then budget washing up liquid. I've learnt (through experience) that the cleanliness of parts are way more critical to a good bond than what solder/flux combo is used or brand of adhesive/weld chemical. Anyway here's the bits in the PRMRP TTB kit:
    IMG_20200813_141900.jpg
    The rolled 'tanks' are not from square shapes (equal 90 deg angles) so will need some fettling. Tbis is a batch build of three. I want 6 to 9 altogether to run in a rake around my planned layout in a 16ft by 14ft outbuilding. I'm very fortunate that i can get a 7mm roundy with min 6ft radius curves!
    I'm also pondering these tanks too. My original plan was to do TTB class A kerosene tanks (BRW 334 Powell Duffryn builds), but.. .. I think a rake of LPG tanks will look good in rake too. I need to research the main bits i'd need to scratchbuild and the availability of transfers for both types before i commit.
     
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  14. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    I've done some further prep work on the tank ends and their fitting into the barrels. I think i need to make up the tanks first so that the folded up holding parts on the wagon base can be angled correctly. The cast ends are heavy with an outer surface similar to the surface of the planet Venus. Some a have a large lump of white metal on the surface.
    The rest of the surface is largely pitted. Here's one following filing work:
    IMG_20200814_110348.jpg
    The next step is to file round the inner join edge with regular checking with one barrel end. As the barrels are out of square, i've marked one end for fitting leaving the opposite end for fettling against an end cap that would fit t'other end (if that makes sense?). That way i can file back the brass barrel (soldered at that stage) and get a square complete tank!
    I've smeared Squadron putty on the ends for sanding later. The prototype has a smooth finish and any thing less on the models will ruin the look. A before and after view:
    IMG_20200814_105108.jpg
    Next job, solder tank barrels with one end 'square'.
     
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  15. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Hi,
    Tank barrels are now complete with the joins now being sorted with more putty. IMG_20200820_115056.jpg

    I've made the underframes up. The instructions are less than extensive and you really have to study prototype pics. This will be especially so for the AB system.
    IMG_20200820_115036.jpg
    I've not found any good images of the underframes of a TTA online; surprising for a common wagon.
    This is not a kit for 'beginners'. Several issues are raised at each stage of the process. The latest is that some of the holes in the W irons lack integrity as per below:
    IMG_20200820_131418.jpg
    This may be an issue when trying to get a square sitting vehicle. I'm musing on springing all wheels but it's going to be a bit dodgy elongating the holes...
    A further issue is the cast buffers are way to small for the holes in the etch. I won't be buying sprung jobbies as they're too pricey for 3 sets (cost of another kit).
    IMG_20200820_115204.jpg
    Anyway, more positively, based upon the availability of transfers, I have chosen the TTA class B BPO60xxx Powell Duffryn type to model.
    Just a couple of questions:
    Does anyone know when the duel pipe system (AB and main res) was changed please? I have images of single brake pipe variants in the 80's. Were they duel piped upto about 79/80?
    Thanks
     
  16. paulc

    paulc Western Thunderer

    Hi Stu , solder a piece of brass tube with the correct o.d. into the holes in the beams , this will strengthen them . I would then add a piece over the spiggot of the buffers . There will probably still be a gap between the o.d. and i.d of the two tubes but this will allow you wriggle room for adjustments .
    Cheers Paul
     
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  17. Stu Fox

    Stu Fox Western Thunderer

    Yes, great idea. Thanks Paul.