7mm Wenford Dries - BR Blue (renamed thread)

[BCN-Pete]

I will try and see if I have a close up photo of the mounting of the lights...

Tony,

Found these...


The LED lights sit in the pre formed notches at the front...

There are two long lights, one in each 1100mm board and the middle section plugs in a shorter filler piece once I join the boards together...

Hope that helps...

Pete

 

[76043]

Thank you Pete, good to know about this option and thanks for the pics. I can well see the advantage of having a laser cutter access, I like the way you have mounted them. For my Dublingham layout all my woodwork was handmade by yours truly, I could have drawn it up and shipped it off to the laser cutting place I use for other non railway projects, but they don't have a big enough machine. Could have gone elsewhere but didn't.
Cheers
Tony

 

[76043]

Actually, looking at your baseboards, is the largest cut piece actually quite small? I know you have an earlier photo of the pieces that also appears to show this.
Tony

 

[BCN-Pete]

Actually, looking at your baseboards, is the largest cut piece actually quite small? I know you have an earlier photo of the pieces that also appears to show this.
Tony

All the timber sizes are determined by the size of the laser bed in the studio, which from memory is approximately 700 x 400mm. I recall I formed the joints halfway along the Ikea Lack shelves so it’s probably 2 x 550mm pieces for each board...

 

[76043]

Thanks Peter, that's got me thinking, the laser shop I use, link below, has a material size of 800 x 450mm. So it's possible to make bigger boards from smaller sections, I take it you use simple castellated or slot & tab joints? I wonder if you got the alignment right, if you could dispense with the LACK shelf and save more weight?

FABBERZ

Tony

 

[BCN-Pete]

Thanks Peter, that's got me thinking, the laser shop I use, link below, has a material size of 800 x 450mm. So it's possible to make bigger boards from smaller sections, I take it you use simple castellated or slot & tab joints? I wonder if you got the alignment right, if you could dispense with the LACK shelf and save more weight?

FABBERZ

Tony

Thanks for the link Tony.

Yes simple slot and tab joints and a gallon of PVA is what I use

For sure you could build the boards just using ply - that is what I do on my recent 2mmFS layouts however I have had numerous layouts on Lack shelves and what I like is the constraints - you have to work within the given dimensions...otherwise layouts can just grow and grow...

 

[76043]

...you have to work within the given dimensions...otherwise layouts can just grow and grow...

Totally agree, there's an S scale exhibition layout Tresparrett Wharf, that was designed to be transported on public transport only. Was also very well made from plywood, I spent more time admiring the woodwork than the trains. It was designed to fit in a long Really Useful box.

I'd like to do something similar one day as my cameo layout (Dublingham) is a bit of a lump even though the largest part is only 115cm long.
Tony

 

[BCN-Pete]

Evening all,

It’s been quite a year since I last posted. Aside from the pandemic, I lost my Mother around this time a year ago so I didn’t really feel like modelling for a while. Sometimes small trains seem irrelevant...however they can also be a source of great comfort when things get tough.

So during the first lockdown, in April I began to make a start on the inset track base, then the ballasting and followed up by starting the dries buildings. The inset track has been the subject of many a 2mmFS disaster for me so this time I used foamboard as a base with templates hand drawn and finished in white card. This has then been painted with acrylics a base concrete colour and weathered with powders.




There is still the marking of joint lines and cracks etc. but it allowed me to do the ballast and then apply the first coat of grass as set in 1983 I want the slightly run down look rather than the completely overgrown look!

I then started to build the dries in relief, starting with the easier side! I have used foamboard as a base overlaid with various embossed plastic sheets. It’s a right old mix of stone, concrete, brickwork and block work.


Gutter brackets were added in sections and looked like progress was being made...until I placed the boards back in storage and the building fell forward and snapped them all off...I don’t mind telling you that my language that followed was pretty fruity!
Following rebuild and a small foamboard enclosure to prevent this happening again, it was giving the cursory coat of grey primer to see the bits that need attention. Gutters and down pipes were added too.

Following completion, the second more complex deeper dries buildings was started again using the same methods and with some corrugated sheet added to the mix.



For the roof I wanted to lay the sheets individually as I had done this successfully on my 2mmFS Coombe Junction - Moorwater layout. A slither of plasticard to act as a batten was added in which also gave me a line to work to as well.



Interestingly the later block work infills between the brick piers are not full height stopping short of the roof structure.

Again the cursory mist of grey primer spray to this building too.



Overall I am happy with the slight random imperfections in the roof and since these photos were taken I have started to apply the base colour acrylics to the different materials...mostly various shades of grey!

I hope to try and further progress over the Christmas break so there shouldn’t be a year between posts this time.

As always, comments welcomed...

Have a good Christmas all,

Pete

 

[Scale7JB]

I really like that.

JB.

 

[BCN-Pete]

I really like that.

JB.

Thanks JB

 

[Kylestrome]

Hi Pete,

It's good to see you're posting here again and that you're making great progress with this layout.

Did you ever get around to painting the brass 08?

David

 

[BCN-Pete]

Hi Pete,

It's good to see you're posting here again and that you're making great progress with this layout.

Did you ever get around to painting the brass 08?

David

Many thanks David.

No I am too scared to mess it up! Besides...

a) I have the Dapol one and still need to paint the rods yellow and add the upper chevrons and b) there is something quite nice about the Brass model as it’s a beautiful bit of Engineering just left in that state...

 

[BCN-Pete]

Here’s a few more pics showing the overall length - 2200mm linear length of dries

 

[Pencarrow]

Evening all,

It’s been quite a year since I last posted. Aside from the pandemic, I lost my Mother around this time a year ago so I didn’t really feel like modelling for a while. Sometimes small trains seem irrelevant...however they can also be a source of great comfort when things get tough.

So during the first lockdown, in April I began to make a start on the inset track base, then the ballasting and followed up by starting the dries buildings. The inset track has been the subject of many a 2mmFS disaster for me so this time I used foamboard as a base with templates hand drawn and finished in white card. This has then been painted with acrylics a base concrete colour and weathered with powders.
View attachment 134824

View attachment 134825

View attachment 134826 There is still the marking of joint lines and cracks etc. but it allowed me to do the ballast and then apply the first coat of grass as set in 1983 I want the slightly run down look rather than the completely overgrown look!

I then started to build the dries in relief, starting with the easier side! I have used foamboard as a base overlaid with various embossed plastic sheets. It’s a right old mix of stone, concrete, brickwork and block work.
View attachment 134827

View attachment 134828 Gutter brackets were added in sections and looked like progress was being made...until I placed the boards back in storage and the building fell forward and snapped them all off...I don’t mind telling you that my language that followed was pretty fruity!
Following rebuild and a small foamboard enclosure to prevent this happening again, it was giving the cursory coat of grey primer to see the bits that need attention. Gutters and down pipes were added too.
View attachment 134829
Following completion, the second more complex deeper dries buildings was started again using the same methods and with some corrugated sheet added to the mix.
View attachment 134831

View attachment 134832
For the roof I wanted to lay the sheets individually as I had done this successfully on my 2mmFS Coombe Junction - Moorwater layout. A slither of plasticard to act as a batten was added in which also gave me a line to work to as well.
View attachment 134830

View attachment 134834
Interestingly the later block work infills between the brick piers are not full height stopping short of the roof structure.
View attachment 134833
Again the cursory mist of grey primer spray to this building too.
View attachment 134836

View attachment 134835
Overall I am happy with the slight random imperfections in the roof and since these photos were taken I have started to apply the base colour acrylics to the different materials...mostly various shades of grey!

I hope to try and further progress over the Christmas break so there shouldn’t be a year between posts this time.

As always, comments welcomed...

Have a good Christmas all,

Pete

Pete

Great to see this layout progressing again. Superb work on the dries, they capture Wenford very well indeed.

 

[BCN-Pete]

Pete

Great to see this layout progressing again. Superb work on the dries, they capture Wenford very well indeed.

Many thanks Chris - much appreciated.

Am also enjoying your 4mm clay thread on here - high quality modelling at rapid pace!

 

[Pencarrow]

Many thanks Chris - much appreciated.

Am also enjoying your 4mm clay thread on here - high quality modelling at rapid pace!

Cheers Pete, I'm also enjoying the quicky build. Very satisfying to get this far in weeks rather than years, all be it with significant corners cut!

 

[BCN-Pete]

Happy Christmas all,

A quick update on the Slaters Brake Van kit I had previously started for the layout.

Prior to painting I wanted to explore installing a working tail lamp. After various searches I found one by ModelYard and after a few helpful email exchanges with Rob, he sent me a kit and a wiring diagram. The intention was to power the lamp from the track using wipers on the wheels fashioned from a kit previously bought at a show. The lamp was set up and various wires fed through to the underside of the chassis to link up with the pickup arrangement. This then proved to be troublesome as I found it difficult to get the spring action of the wire against the inside of the wheels. The lamp was on when on the track but upon moving the BV they slipped off and the lamp flickered...but not in a good flicker way! So a quick reorganisation the day after with the wires trailing on the top of the wheels...again, the same result.

So following another conversation with Rob, I decided to go old School and run it off a small battery but with a small inline switch that Rob provided. For this to happen I had to modify the roof to make it removable to access. This needed to be done anyway as the sides were bowing inwards. A few experiments with various layers of plasticard enables the roof to now slot in and out, whilst realigning the sides. I also took advantage to remove the curved rain strips to the roof so now it can move to the paint shop. Rob of ModelYard was very helpful and should I require more lamps I won’t hesitate to go back to him.

A few pics...


Switch and battery are housed in the body...

Roof has crude plasticard insert to help locate and prevent the bowing...

Light in off position...

Light in on position...

One thing it occurred to me afterwards is I could have located the gubbins under the chassis and permanently fixed the roof on... Ha!

As always, comments welcomed...

Pete

 

[76043]

Hello Pete, thanks for the pics of the brake van, I've not started mine, but can immediately see the weak point of the thin plastic walls. I've braced my first van with thick evergreen strip.

I'll be posting some pics soon of the van build, where I've made the roof interference fit removable. I would always favour this as you just know you'll need to get back in there one day, so keeping the electrical gubbins inside the van is ok, but really, it doesn't really matter. I'm just being fussy with my removable w-irons and roofs.

I'd like to have a similar lamp lit, to match my Dapol 08, so thanks for the information on the lamp. Do Train-Tech do anything similar?

Great buildings BTW.

Tony

 

[BCN-Pete]

Hello Pete, thanks for the pics of the brake van, I've not started mine, but can immediately see the weak point of the thin plastic walls. I've braced my first van with thick evergreen strip.

I'll be posting some pics soon of the van build, where I've made the roof interference fit removable. I would always favour this as you just know you'll need to get back in there one day, so keeping the electrical gubbins inside the van is ok, but really, it doesn't really matter. I'm just being fussy with my removable w-irons and roofs.

I'd like to have a similar lamp lit, to match my Dapol 08, so thanks for the information on the lamp. Do Train-Tech do anything similar?

Great buildings BTW.

Tony

Thanks re the buildings Tony - yes I agree the BV walls would be better strengthened at the outset. I found the instructions quite confusing I must admit...so ended up trying to battle my way through using some photos from various wagon websites!

Re the tail lamp, just looking at Train Techs website they appear to do something similar (with even a controlled flicker!) however it looks to me just like the LED’s and bits they sell, not the lamp. I guess you could model your own lamp housing around an LED?

 

[D602bulldog]

Glad to see your still going ahead with the layout after all this time did you use the lack shelves in the end has them boards look very good.