Nick Dunhill's 7mm W (A6) or Whitby Tank Workbench

[JimG]

Hi Adrian.

I considered that the addition of a slitting file to my arsenal would be a worthwhile investment, but note that these items are for sale to 2mm Association members only. I've looked at a number of tool and jewellery makers' suppliers but can find nothing similar. Do you have any idea who may be an alternative supplier?

Brian,

H.B. Walsh do something suitable, shown as screwhead slotting files at 0.5mm thickness

Screwhead Slotting Files | HS Walsh & Sons

I don't know if you will like the price - a lot more than the 2mm scale product. I have one of the 2mm society files and I think I would prefer the Walsh ones since they are not so wide - my 2mm one is 15mm wide whereas the Walsh ones are 9mm wide.

I've now found a vallorbe one at a fair bit less in cost

Vallorbe Screw Head Slotting Files

although it doesn't state the thickness and would have to be checked out.

Similarly at Cousins

Slotting Screw Head (1850) Vallorbe Swiss

at a slightly better price.

I suspect that all these prices are less VAT - I haven't dug deeper into their ordering system to see if that is the case.

Jim.

Jim.

 

[oldravendale]

Thank you Jim.

Funnily enough I looked at the Cookson Gold site, but not Cousins. The Vallorbe looks OK - I'll just have to find out the thickness of the cut.

B

 

[adrian]

They seem to have subtly different names and shapes. The slotting files appear to have a V shape to the edge. Alternatives are gapping files or joint files. These seem to have a rounded edge to them if you look at the profile.

Walsh do list them, they are cheaper but out of stock! Swiss Gapping File - TF1304

Another source for a much larger variation in thickness, from 0.3mm to 1.2 mm in 0.1 mm steps, also 0.55mm round files
Suchergebnisse - Karl Fischer GmbH
The prices come up in Euro when you add it to the cart (about 27 euro).

 

[oldravendale]

Hi Adrian.

That's very helpful, and prices are not out of order either. I'll consider the options - a really narrow file seems a good option to open out slots.

Brian

 

[Nick Dunhill]

....it's been a while, but I have been making a cylinder block, slidebars and a motion bracket. The motion bracket had to be scratchbuilt and below are the dimensions. It was made from the waste round the etched panel, and the fixing plates and 'T' sections from the waste round a Finney kit.

The next pictures show the ensemble offered up to the frames.

The cylinder front next and the cylinder drain cocks......

 

[Scale7JB]

Lovely..

JB.

 

[warren haywood]

Oh Lordy, more masking up to do

 

[Nick Dunhill]

....I have spent a little time making lots of detail parts for the cylinder block. The cylinder heads have been fitted as have the valve stem guides. All the castings were from the Laurie Griffin Stephenson link kit for NER locos, which is pretty much spot on for this loco. The valve guides for the rear of the cylinder need to be separated as they come as one casting. Later you will see that the valve rods 'step out' along their length and consequently the guides are not concentric. If fitting inside motion the holes in the cylinder front and rear for the valve rods need re-drilling 1 mm above the ones pre etched. The valve rod guides on the motion bracket are positioned using a drill in the cylinder rear guides to act as a pointer, as the cylinder rear, slide bars and motion bracket are held temporarily on one frame plate to get the alignment correct. Next all the tail pipes were fabricated and added to the cylinder fronts (took ages!!) A brass rectangle 15.2 x 26.3 mm was cut out to act as a bridge piece between cylinder front and rear and a curvy W shaped cylinder bottom added from brass sheet. Next all the cylinder drain cocks and many linkages were made and finally fitted. Details of the linkages can be found on the pipe and rod drawing on my Flickr account: www.flickr.com/photos/144381574@N05/albums

Should be able to assemble the frames now the cylinders are finished. Will hopefully have some show-and-tell for Telford.

 

[Steph Dale]

That's very nice Nick and I think is the first time I've seen a loco with undershot valves in model form. I look forward to seeing how you put it all together!

Steph

 

[Nick Dunhill]

Cheers. Yeah me too. Makes for interesting cylinder drain cock pipes etc....
See you @ Telford.

 

[Rob Pulham]

Superb Nick, I look forward to seeing it in the flesh.

 

[Steph Dale]

Yep, surely. Looking forward to it!

Steph

 

[Dog Star]

... I think is the first time I've seen a loco with undershot valves in model form.

Colombo... built by Tony Reynalds for Patrick Reardon. Covered once or twice in MRJ.

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Nick, all,

for thin files that don't cost the earth have a look in the nail department of Boots Etc. and look for diamond or sapphire nail files you can normal pick them up for about £3.

Some nice work going on here Nick, I'll pick it up at Telford and try not to drop it!!!

OzzyO.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

......it's been a good day. I have spent weeks cutting out and fettling castings and etchings, making linkages and pull rods and brackets and rods for the cylinder blocks. Today I stuck them all together and have a basic chassis. All the frame etchings fit perfectly, just remember to double check everything for perfect alignment before you begin to solder. I raise a glass to the designer.....

 

[john lewsey]

Pretty awesome really

 

[Nick Dunhill]

....every day a school day! For the first time I have to make buffer beams that are a wooden 'sandwich.' I would welcome suggestions for the best type of glue to bond the wood to the N/S beams please.

Thanks....

 

[adrian]

I'm surprised given your craftsmanship I would have thought you'd be drilling and pinning them rather than glueing them, I presume that's how they were built on the full size loco.

Otherwise for glueing I'd use EvoStick contact adhesive.

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

....every day a school day! For the first time I have to make buffer beams that are a wooden 'sandwich.' I would welcome suggestions for the best type of glue to bond the wood to the N/S beams please.

Thanks....

Araldite works for me.

Ian.

 

[Scale7JB]

When I did the G5, I used brass tube through the buffer holes, and then soldered both sides..

JB.