7mm On Heather's Workbench - a baby Small Prairie

Discussion in 'WR Action' started by Heather Kay, 2 August 2017.

  1. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    Or screw it in from above?

  2. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    All sound proposals, and the latter one sounds favourite at the moment. :thumbs:
    Malcolm Trevena likes this.
  3. Bagpuss

    Bagpuss Member

    A plain Pin with a head captive in side the loco and a small hole for a pin would work. A brass screw with a plain shank could be cut down to make a sutable part. Just a suggestion.
    Heather Kay likes this.
  4. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    Thanks Bagpuss!

    I’ve worked out a solution based on my skills and materials at hand. I hope to have an update tomorrow.
  5. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer


    I didn’t get a lot done yesterday. Essentially, I reworked the bolt fixings for the pony trucks so the nuts are now captive on the trucks. That means there’s no likelihood of a nut detaching itself in service. The rear, however, still presents a problem.

    Having adjusted the weighshaft casting so it fitted in place with the spacer, it became obvious the cylinder lever will seriously impede truck swing. I tried filing down the upper side to offer some clearance, but it rather looks like the lever must be removed. There is certainly no way I can fit the steam cylinder and attach it to the weighshaft that will avoid blocking the pony truck.

    I’m not keen on removing details, but I can’t currently see how the pony truck will swing with the lever in place. Perhaps a temporary lash-up might be in order to test on the track before I commit to amputation.
    P A D, Len Cattley, GrahameH and 2 others like this.
  6. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    Road tests confirmed the steam cylinder lever had to be sacrificed. It’s lost in the murk, hidden among clutter and hopefully won’t be missed.

    Anyway, where was I?


    Saddle retaining nuts. I was all set to glue a cast part in here. I had one of those "thinks" moments as I drifted off to sleep where I realised the casting would double the thickness of the saddle plate. There were already holes etched in the plate, so I dug out my dwindling stock of 16BA nuts and carefully soldered them in place. Ideally, they should have had short studs as well, but a smear of filler will have to suffice before painting begins.


    Apart from the smokebox door, the casting for which I am not entirely convinced by at present, I think that’s about all the fiddly details for the front of this model. Ah, yes, vacuum brake pipe… I rather think that might go on after painting, but I will consult on that.


    The rump has had the lamp brackets and tool hooks fitted. Again, the vac pipe could go on, but there’s lining round the rear panel, so I suspect it needs to go on after painting.

    Time to think about the backhead again, then.
  7. simond

    simond Western Thunderer


    DLOS posted some pix a while back, I believe, in which he showed a lug silver soldered to the pipe, and subsequently screwed to a tapped hole in the underside of the footplate.

    Might need a stud soldered on the footplate at the front as you can’t drill & tap the footplate, where it would show.

    Means the pipes can be easily and firmly fixed after painting.

    It’s one of those ideas I ought to try...

    Rob Pulham and Heather Kay like this.
  8. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    There are definitely times when the mojo just wanders off and refuses to play. Add in external factors getting a body down, and, well, you know how it goes.


    I finally settled to the backhead. The sum total of most of a day there. It’s not that bad, but acceptable for tucked away in the cab and hidden behind a couple of crew figures.
    daifly likes this.