7mm On Heather's Workbench - raising the Standard

[Heather Kay]

No, not a kettle. A pair of JLTRT Mk1s, in their original as-built condition - or at least, as close as JLTRT kits can be.

I was in two minds about making a thread on this build. It's not like you haven't seen Mk1s being built before. The models were already started by a previous builder before my client acquired them from eBay. He thought it would be a quick build for him to supplement his existing stock, and then he looked in the box...

So, what's the story here? I have a BSK and TSO. As they arrived on my bench, the body sides had been painted and lined, one set of windows had been painted, and the interior of the BSK had been started and somehow made a right horlicks of. The B1 bogies are mostly constructed, although missing some of the axleguard keeper plates. Most of the castings are there, but there are some key bits of etched brass missing.

I've already asked Laurie L at JLTRT to send me a bunch of replacement bits (good job there's that solid silver guarantee!), and while I await those - and various odds for the LNWR build - I decided now would be a good time to get things started on the Mk1s. That and the requirement they're need for a Christmas present this year.



I stripped off the brass work and set it aside for later use. I have plenty of spares for T-handles and grab rails, but it doesn't hurt to re-use what came off the kit if it's clean. I then set about removing the Pressfix lining. I'm not sure it had been applied correctly, as it was slightly tacky to the touch. Be that as it may, the tip of a sharp No10 blade let me carefully slice it away. I'm not worried about damaging the paintwork. While it's nice enough, there are enough blemishes and scuff marks to require a repaint anyway. I was careful not to gouge the actual body moulding, though.



Next, I assessed damage and set about cleaning up the dodgy paint. To be fair, it wasn't that bad, just a bit, um, bright. Having built a BSK before, I knew there are some issues with door bumpers on one side, so I made a note! Some of the hinges had been pinged off, so they need attention, too.

I have decided to clean up the window areas where there are mould flaws. The models are to be finished in "blood and custard", pretty much as built in the early 1950s, with a slightly tired finish. I shall be using the Phoenix paints I used on the Collett build, which has a slightly darker, more purple shade of crimson, and Fox transfers for the lining and lettering.



I'll need to check the references, but either this door opens the wrong way, or the bumper is completely superfluous in its current location! The guard's handrails also need holes drilled: may as well do that before repainting commences.

Once I've cleaned up and filled the sides, I'll get a coat of primer on them to see if there's anything glaringly obvious I've missed. I can't really kick off the underframes at this stage, but I can spend a while fettling and cleaning up castings and so on. It'll make a change from battling brass LNWR coaches.

Don't expect a blow-by-blow account on this build. I'll probably cherry-pick anything I think you might be interested in.

 

[Heather Kay]

This build will be pretty much straight out of the box, but it has been brought to my attention that there are often sundry items you need in order to complete JLTRT models, items not normally supplied in the kit. The idea here is to give a better idea of extra costs that occur when you decide to buy and build a model railway coach.

I'm not including glues, paints and transfers, as I generally assume such items are already in a modeller's workshop as standard items. If you think I should include these things, let me know.

This post will be updated irregularly.

Running total cost of extra items: £63.00

Wheels
Depending on your taste, you need to budget for suitable wheelsets for the models. Most O finescale modellers will plump for the standard Slater's 7125 3' 7" Plain Disc (Coach) at £9.50 per pair. If S7 is your thing, 7125S at £9.76 per pair. (Other manufacturers' wheelsets are available, but be aware the JLTRT bogie kits assume Slater's brass top hat bearings. I should also point out the coaches in this build already had the wheelsets in the box.)

Brake Shoes
As I've expounded before, only the JLTRT "Rolls-Royce" etched B1 kit has any semblance of brake shoes. The standard whitemetal bogie kits that generally ship with their kits are devoid of such detail. For this build, I've acquired four sets of 43two1 Models (ABS) BR Standard Wagon Clasp Brakeshoes for Fitted Vehicles (code O.109), which retail at £2.00 per set. I will need to add representation of the various linkages from wire or somesuch.

Couplings
Generally, the JLTRT Mk1 kits come with lost wax brass screw link couplings. If you want the buckeye couplings, you have to order JLTRT PWMP16 at £11.00 a pair. You may also opt for suitable Kadee couplers, as recounted in my Mk2 triplet build thread. The Mk2 build used Kadee O Scale #805 Magne-Matic Couplers, which were supplied by M G Sharp. The price tag says £3.85 a pair, and this seems to be the current price (at 17/9/13).

Window Frames
You can order the JLTRT Mk1 kits in pre-1958 (before external window frames) and post-1958 (with external frames) condition. If you are building a kit with the wrong form, or you might be revamping an existing model in such a condition, etched frames are available from Easy-Build. The price is currently £15.00 per set of windows, and includes injection moulded clear glazing. Equally, Easy-Build provide etched interior kits for various Mk1 types, ostensibly for their own kit range but I can imagine readily bashed to fit kits from other sources. I am using an Easy-Build etch to replace damaged hinges and door furniture, but I can't locate it on their website and it came from my copious Bits Box which I acquired from Best Beloved. I will assume a price on a par with the window etches.

Passenger Communication Gear/Brake Telltales
I know JLTRT provides some cast parts for the telltales, and with a bit of work they scrub up pretty well. Okay, you need to bend up some fine wire, and you need to make the vacuum pipe (and air pipe if you're modelling dual braked vehicles) down the end of the coach, but that's okay. Of course, I've since discovered the CPL detailing parts. For this build, I bought in the CPL Ref 120 Part No 1C Corridor Standard - Later Tell Tale at £5.50 a packet. Fine lost wax cast parts which are close enough to the BR system to pass muster, aside from the little flags being round the wrong way, I think this improves things over fabricating your own.

Dynamos
The kit dynamo is the same set of parts JLTRT supply for their GWR kits. While it's adequate, and with a bit of care can be titivated into something that looks more the part, it is frankly a little undernourished. Where I can I prefer to swap it out for an ABS/Cavalier LMS Stanier Dynamo with Adjusting Bracket C.MO1, which is much beefier and better detailed. I'll try and get the price at some point (the label states Price Code D).

 

[40126]

Hi Heather

Can i just say, All your threads are interesting . I'm a BR blue person, but that doesnt stop me enjoying all of your builds

Steve

 

[Phill Dyson]

Wheels
Depending on your taste, you need to budget for suitable wheelsets for the models. Most O finescale modellers will plump for the standard Slater's 7125 3' 7" Plain Disc (Coach) at £9.50 per pair. If S7 is your thing, 7125S at £9.76 per pair. (Other manufacturers' wheelsets are available, but be aware the JLTRT bogie kits assume Slater's brass top hat bearings. I should also point out the coaches in this build already had the wheelsets in the box.)

Easybuild offer a good alternative for F/S coach wheels Heather, they are all steel & come already chemically blackened with top hat bearings at £12.5o (I think) for a set of four axles

 

[Ressaldar]

Easybuild offer a good alternative for F/S coach wheels Heather, they are all steel & come already chemically blackened with top hat bearings at £12.5o (I think) for a set of four axles

they were £3 per axle at Telford - so £0.50 for post & packing is very good

cheers

Mike

 

[Heather Kay]

Thought I'd replied to everyone last night.

Thanks for the updates, folks. I won't add the Easybuild wheels to my list, but it's here in the thread for all to see anyway.

 

[Dog Star]

Heather,

Thank you for adding details of what is needed / what might be added to complete the basic JLTRT Mk.1 kit. Please try to separate the details such that there is a running total for the necessary parts (the parts that are needed, for example:- wheels / brake blocks) and an aggregated price for the optional items (the parts which are not needed for a basic out-of-the-box build, rather for improving the appearance of the build).

regards, Graham

 

[Bob Reid]

I'll need to check the references, but either this door opens the wrong way, or the bumper is completely superfluous in its current location! The guard's handrails also need holes drilled: may as well do that before repainting commences.

Shave off those door (and bodyside) bumpers Heather on the door adjacent the van - it's hinged the right way but it was straps that held it at the limit... And as you've spotted at the other end it's been shaved off when it should be there!

 

[Heather Kay]

Thanks, Bob.

I haven't had a chance to check the references yet, as I was tidying things up and rubbing down the current paint job as prep for a quick squirt of primer this morning.

 

[Heather Kay]

Graham, once the build is more advanced, I will sit down and work out a split for the Extras post. Right now, I'm concentrating on getting the things ready for some paint.

 

[Heather Kay]

Does anyone know a good source of etched or cast handles that represent those long ones used on the luggage van doors? I thought Slater's might supply them, as they're similar to the parts used on their Southern vans, but it appears they don't provide them separately. Might have to call them and speak to a human.

Anyway, I've been fettling doors today.



This is the end door with the missing bumpers. I've marked them out, measured from the similar end of the TSO. The door bumper is dead centre in the horizontal (6.75mm in from the door edge), the body bumper is 8mm from the left hand edge of the hinged moulded gap. Both are 15mm from the bottom of the side.

As you can see, inevitable damage has been done to the handle escutcheon (my word of the day, if you follow me elswhere!), so I cleaned things up and have repaired with the Easy-Build etched plates.

As for the bumpers, well, CPL make some etched ones which would be suitable, but I don't have them in my stores. Instead, I shall fabricate from a slivers of Evergreen styrene rod. 1.2mm diameter for the base, with 0.8mm for the bumper. As I've only two to make, it shouldn't be hard work.



The escutcheon etch is a very tiny part. Luckily, we have laminate flooring, so the carpet monster will go hungry if this pings off into another dimension.



Here's the escutcheon in place on the other door, which has had the bumpers removed.

Other repairs from the Easy-Build etch are the various hinges that have been knocked off. I cleaned them back to surface level, then took a tiny etched stainless steel razor saw (made by a company called Airwaves, who specialise in etched details for model aircraft, designed to fit in a scalpel handle) and carefully cut along the groove to allow the etch replacement to glue in.



If I can't find suitable van door handles, I'll bash them from brass wire. In the immortal words of J Clarkson, how hard can it be?

 

[richard carr]

Heather

Its not hard its very easy in fact to make the handles, just flatten some 0.5mm wire in a vice and then bend the remaining wire to 90 degrees, then shape the flattened wire as needs to get the handle you want.
Isn't that what you did on mine ?

Richard

 

[Heather Kay]

I can't remember back that far, Richard! Sounds like a plan, though.

 

[Heather Kay]

The sound of silence.

Well, it's that "rub it down, prime, curse it, fix it, rub it down, prime again" stage of the paint job. I really hope I might get a coat or two of cream on the sides this evening. I'll start detailing the ends in between bouts of airbrushing.

I need to chase up our friends in the north again for the missing bits and pieces I've requested. Incidentally, I was delivered of a white box this morning from that very source. Another one for the pile that will not officially be started until the calendar turns over a new year. It's also one from God's Wonderful - a 57xx with welded tanks. It'll be finished in its proper colours, too. I might be tempted to tiptoe over into the Official WT Action forum for this build.

 

[Ian G]

The airwaves saw blades are a good buy, I have had a set for about 20 years, bought them in Scotland.

Ian G

 

[Heather Kay]

The airwaves saw blades are a good buy, I have had a set for about 20 years, bought them in Scotland.

I believe the Airwaves range of bits and bobs are now owned by Hannants of Lowestoft.

I find there are now two variants of the stainless steel etch in the range.

 

[Heather Kay]

First coats of cream on the sides. While the enamel dries enough for a second coat - which won't be terribly long as the ambient temperature is good - I'll tackle end details.

 

[Heather Kay]

As these coaches will be finished in their mid-1950s glory, the full set of steps is required on each end. Anyone familiar with the JLTRT kits will know the holes you drill out aren't quite the right distance apart to accept the folded etch steps. Having learned that lesson, I drilled out the holes nearest the side to 0.8mm, and clipped off the right side peg of the steps. The steps were then superglued into the hole, and a dribble of glue run along the back edge where the etch met the body. Once the glue was set, I used a dental probe to wipe filler into the visible holes.

The CPL brake telltale parts are a pretty good facsimile for the BR version. Only the eagle-eyed pedantic rivet-counter will note the telltale flags are the wrong way round. I might have a quiet chat with Pat Legg when I next see her and ask if she's up for making a variation for the BR modellers. You will see I've had to widen the central connecting rod, which is handily hidden beneath the gangway later, and I've also had to shorten the flag rods accordingly. Even so, it saved a lot of faffing about modifying and detailing the JLTRT parts.

This pair of ends is for the BSK. Apart from handrails, these ends are ready for priming and a nice coat of black paint. I'll probably start work on the TSO ends later, and then I can have a proper spray session while the cream coats on the body side harden off over the next day or so. The temperature in the loft is just about perfect for spraying today, and if this Indian Summer continues for the rest of the week I can get the rest of the painting done on these models.

 

[Jon Fitness]

The sound of silence.

Well, it's that "rub it down, prime, curse it, fix it, rub it down, prime again" stage of the paint job. I really hope I might get a coat or two of cream on the sides this evening. I'll start detailing the ends in between bouts of airbrushing.

I need to chase up our friends in the north again for the missing bits and pieces I've requested. Incidentally, I was delivered of a white box this morning from that very source. Another one for the pile that will not officially be started until the calendar turns over a new year. It's also one from God's Wonderful - a 57xx with welded tanks. It'll be finished in its proper colours, too. I might be tempted to tiptoe over into the Official WT Action forum for this build.

The one I'm looking forward to is the Fowler Dock Tank I heard rumours of... I have one in it's box daring me to start it. It would be my first loco with outside (can't spell walshaerts) valve gear....
Jon F.

 

[Heather Kay]

The one I'm looking forward to is the Fowler Dock Tank I heard rumours of

Oh, it's more than rumours. Like yours, mine is in its box, but at least I have made a start - and then stalled a couple of times. I keep promising myself I'll find some bench time to move it closer to completion.