Jon Fitness
Western Thunderer
With hand positions like that, how about Julian and Sandy for their names (obscure Round the Horne reference...)
JF
7mm On Heather's Workbench - small and perfectly formed
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
JF
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
With hand positions like that, how about Julian and Sandy for their names (obscure Round the Horne reference...)
JF
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I've been fettling away at little jobs today, and really don't feel like I'm getting anywhere. The reality is, of course, this build is nearing completion, and it's the little jobs that take the longest.
One of those jobs was tackling the buffer plank paintwork. Most red paints don't have much covering capacity, and the received wisdom is to undercoat with white first. I don't actually have the correct paint for the actual colour, which is a red of the orangey variety, so I decided to undercoat with yellow in the hope it would impart a slight orange tint to the top coat. I think it worked. For the record, undercoat Humbrol matt 24 yellow and matt 60 red. I'm letting things dry for a day, then gloss varnish for the transfers.
I ordered a set of plates from Severn Mill some time ago, which have been conspicuous by their absence. I contacted him today, and they should be with me soon. I am impatient, so I bought some caution plates from CPL on Saturday. Very nicely printed, but the base sheet is a mite too thick for my liking, add to which one has to physically cut the plate out from the sheet. I used a craft knife to score, then pliers to bend and snap, cleaning up with the whizzy disc and fine files. The plate has been stuck into the cab with a dab of PVA, as have the gauges. The PVA is meant to be a temporary fix, pending better adhesives, but I have to be honest I think I'll leave it alone as it's holding stuff a treat.
One of the CPL crank pin nuts. Nice, isn't it? I've never been very convinced about the rivet used to joint the coupling rods. For one thing, the kit items are an exact match for the thickness of the rods, so while you can punch the back to grip the inner rod there's not much actual grip, and nothing to bulge over the rear surface to help. I've had one fail on me already, just rolling the loco up and down my three feet of test track. I am going to replace the rivets with a nut and bolt. Yes, it won't look like the rivet - which does match the prototype quite well - but I think it'll provide a better engineering solution and avoid the situation where the client has been playing with their new toy on the club test track hauling a huge train at speed only to find the coupling rods have parted and caused mayhem.
So, the rods have to come off again to perform the surgery, and the crank pin nuts will be fixed properly after that.
I am looking forward to getting the transfers done, because that'll mean a final top coat of varnish and I can begin the weathering. Really looking forward to making this loco work stained.
One of those jobs was tackling the buffer plank paintwork. Most red paints don't have much covering capacity, and the received wisdom is to undercoat with white first. I don't actually have the correct paint for the actual colour, which is a red of the orangey variety, so I decided to undercoat with yellow in the hope it would impart a slight orange tint to the top coat. I think it worked. For the record, undercoat Humbrol matt 24 yellow and matt 60 red. I'm letting things dry for a day, then gloss varnish for the transfers.
I ordered a set of plates from Severn Mill some time ago, which have been conspicuous by their absence. I contacted him today, and they should be with me soon. I am impatient, so I bought some caution plates from CPL on Saturday. Very nicely printed, but the base sheet is a mite too thick for my liking, add to which one has to physically cut the plate out from the sheet. I used a craft knife to score, then pliers to bend and snap, cleaning up with the whizzy disc and fine files. The plate has been stuck into the cab with a dab of PVA, as have the gauges. The PVA is meant to be a temporary fix, pending better adhesives, but I have to be honest I think I'll leave it alone as it's holding stuff a treat.
One of the CPL crank pin nuts. Nice, isn't it? I've never been very convinced about the rivet used to joint the coupling rods. For one thing, the kit items are an exact match for the thickness of the rods, so while you can punch the back to grip the inner rod there's not much actual grip, and nothing to bulge over the rear surface to help. I've had one fail on me already, just rolling the loco up and down my three feet of test track. I am going to replace the rivets with a nut and bolt. Yes, it won't look like the rivet - which does match the prototype quite well - but I think it'll provide a better engineering solution and avoid the situation where the client has been playing with their new toy on the club test track hauling a huge train at speed only to find the coupling rods have parted and caused mayhem.
So, the rods have to come off again to perform the surgery, and the crank pin nuts will be fixed properly after that.
I am looking forward to getting the transfers done, because that'll mean a final top coat of varnish and I can begin the weathering. Really looking forward to making this loco work stained.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Can I refer you to my Fowler thread?. I turned a new nickel silver pin (over-long), slipped a washer over the back, soldered, and filed flush with the back of the washer.
Richard
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
A neat idea. I'm told our lathe doesn't [currently] have a chuck small enough. I think that is something I shall have to rectify soon, as one of my ambitions this year is to learn how to use the thing!
Compton castle
Western Thunderer
Pannier is looking great
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Heather,
That nice Mr Griffin does some lovely coupling rod knuckle pins in lost wax nickel-silver.
Just a thought...
Steph
That nice Mr Griffin does some lovely coupling rod knuckle pins in lost wax nickel-silver.
Just a thought...
Steph
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Things have been slow this past day or so. I've been feeling tired, and having to do some house-related work, though the upside of the latter is it let me get out into the lovely sunshine for a while.
Today I planned to get the transfers all done.
The buffer plank numbers went as well as can be expected. I got a set of the Fox transfers, but I think the numbers are a little chubby.
The route discs were a bit fiddly, but I got there in the end. Then I tackled the tank-side lettering...
Oh, joy. These are probably fine for a tender, but they are nowhere near right for the pannier tank. A look at prototype shots - particularly period ones - shows much greater space between the letters. I have to make an order from CPL for another project, so I think I'll get a set of the Reynalds transfers while I'm about it.
So, after a good start, where I hoped I might get the protective varnish on today, I've ground to a halt again. Time to break out another build, I think.
Today I planned to get the transfers all done.
The buffer plank numbers went as well as can be expected. I got a set of the Fox transfers, but I think the numbers are a little chubby.
The route discs were a bit fiddly, but I got there in the end. Then I tackled the tank-side lettering...
Oh, joy. These are probably fine for a tender, but they are nowhere near right for the pannier tank. A look at prototype shots - particularly period ones - shows much greater space between the letters. I have to make an order from CPL for another project, so I think I'll get a set of the Reynalds transfers while I'm about it.
So, after a good start, where I hoped I might get the protective varnish on today, I've ground to a halt again. Time to break out another build, I think.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Well, the plates finally arrived. 
I guess I'll have to build another pannier to use the number plates! I think I'll keep the caution plate in stock, as it is better than the CPL one. It'll suit a loco with a more open cab. Now to get some paint in the works plates, and get them stuck on the leading splashers. One more thing to tick off the list.
I guess I'll have to build another pannier to use the number plates! I think I'll keep the caution plate in stock, as it is better than the CPL one. It'll suit a loco with a more open cab. Now to get some paint in the works plates, and get them stuck on the leading splashers. One more thing to tick off the list.
Ian G
Western Thunderer
Heather
There are many ways in dealing with a large chuck when turning small items, a small key chuck or split collets, all available from good suppliers.
I use Chronos for most of my bits and bobs.
http://chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/collets.html
Ian G
There are many ways in dealing with a large chuck when turning small items, a small key chuck or split collets, all available from good suppliers.
I use Chronos for most of my bits and bobs.
http://chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/collets.html
Ian G
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Cheers Ian! Chronos is where we got the lathe and the various supporting bits. I understand we have digital readout gear, as well as a four jaw chuck.
Our local Axminster store apparently runs workshop training days. I plan to look into the costs as a refresher.
Our local Axminster store apparently runs workshop training days. I plan to look into the costs as a refresher.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Builder's plates affixed. Sets things off a treat. 
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Looking good Heather, those Severnmill plates really are the dogs #########
I've taken delivery of 10 sets today, not much change out of £400
Did this one last week, the loco body may just be visible behind it when it's refitted just a shame the loco splasher is the wrong radius
Warren
I've taken delivery of 10 sets today, not much change out of £400
Did this one last week, the loco body may just be visible behind it when it's refitted
just a shame the loco splasher is the wrong radius Warren
Compton castle
Western Thunderer
They are superb, the builders plate is sublime and that castle plate is stunning. I really hope we don't loose Severn mill
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
T
Thanks Steph, that explains why I could not see them in his catalogue it only goes up to 8-65 on the web.
Thanks Steph, that explains why I could not see them in his catalogue it only goes up to 8-65 on the web.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
That's a fair old difference in spacing. CPL/Reynalds above Fox.
Guess there's no excuse for not getting this little engine completed and weathered ... After my breakette, I think.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Heather
I'm sure I can teach/let you have a bit of practice on my lathe if you want.
Richard
I'm sure I can teach/let you have a bit of practice on my lathe if you want.
Richard